35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A challenging climb featuring a tough first pitch and a fine upper pitch shared with 'B' Line. High in the grade.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb the corner past a bulge to a ledge. Continue to the fault-line and belay over to the left next to a boulder.
2) 5a, 20m. Move up and leftwards to below a groove. Climb the grey wall boldly up right and then back left to the groove. Climb this with difficulty past an old peg to the top. © Rockfax

FA. F.Clarke, Al Alvarez 1963

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Ramon Marin 5 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Well, the second pitch it should read like this: "Ascend the grey wall, traverse left to reach the bottom of a shallow groove (peg). Some moves up this lead to the top." The drawing of the second pitch is wrong in the rockfax guide, it leads you rightwards, and you can see clearly the groove, but the line on the book is certainly "not" in the groove.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well, the second pitch it should read like this: "Ascend the grey wall, traverse left to reach the bottom of a shallow groove (peg). Some moves up this lead to the top." The drawing of the second pitch is wrong in the rockfax guide, it leads you rightwards, and you can see clearly the groove, but the line on the book is certainly "not" in the groove.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
monsteratt 13 Jul AltLd O/S Did first pitch. Quite awkward moves round the roof. Nice top pitch
with Sam, Tom, Paul
Did first pitch. Quite awkward moves round the roof. Nice top pitch
with Sam, Tom, Paul
greensam 13 Jul AltLd O/S Led pitch 2 (5a) - pretty straightforward, nice face climbing.
Led pitch 2 (5a) - pretty straightforward, nice face climbing.
Katsmiff 11 May Lead O/S Good route. Felt pleasant. There was gear.
with Oana Tamasila
Good route. Felt pleasant. There was gear.
with Oana Tamasila
merlin138 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Me P1
Me P1
Hidden 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
RobScarisbrick 19 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with cdpuk
with cdpuk
cdpuk 19 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Led p2
Led p2
mikehenesy 2 Apr, 2017 AltLd rpt More fun an frollics getting over the bulge, think we did it wrong again, good value though. Grand day out.
with Chris Lodge
More fun an frollics getting over the bulge, think we did it wrong again, good value though. Grand day out.
with Chris Lodge
Adam Hill 5 Feb, 2017 AltLd
with Simon
with Simon
lukevf 29 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 1
with Phil
Lead pitch 1
with Phil
Phil 29 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 2
with lukevf
Lead pitch 2
with lukevf
Hidden 24 Jul, 2016 Lead
PilarMartinez 14 May, 2016 AltLd
Julesthe1st 14 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
mark4344 13 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
with cheeky
with cheeky
cheeky 13 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
ASchwirtz 17 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S
Russtygibbons 17 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
budchawla 2 Apr, 2016 Lead dog Took a short rest to assess the overhang on P1 and another at the layback flake on P2. After my last outing in Swanage, a considered approach seemed sensible! :) Great day out - perfect Swanage weather. Climbed alongside Justin & Alex on the neighbouring route.
with Philipp
Took a short rest to assess the overhang on P1 and another at the layback flake on P2. After my last outing in Swanage, a considered approach seemed sensible! :) Great day out - perfect Swanage weather. Climbed alongside Justin & Alex on the neighbouring route.
with Philipp
andycash 16 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with Daryl nayler
with Daryl nayler
philhilo 15 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S Led and hauled.
with heg
Led and hauled.
with heg
Shane Willis 6 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S Led 2nd pitch, was a bit tricky to read so headed for the old peg, it looks like it's on its last legs, but there's a bomber gear placement just to its left so you don't need it anyway. Good route, good fun.
Led 2nd pitch, was a bit tricky to read so headed for the old peg, it looks like it's on its last legs, but there's a bomber gear placement just to its left so you don't need it anyway. Good route, good fun.
ian bryant ??, 2015 -
elfka 19 Nov, 2014 AltLd O/S led second pitch, great route.
with Joe Doherty
led second pitch, great route.
with Joe Doherty
rd20 7 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S RD P2
RD P2
garywong 7 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S P1
with rd20
P1
with rd20
Owen W-G 6 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Led p2, would be HVS anywhere but Swanage
Led p2, would be HVS anywhere but Swanage
CurlyStevo 6 Sep, 2014 AltLd Yeah I found the first overhang harder than Aventura or Joe, defo 5a. I think pitch two feels HVS 5a also.
Yeah I found the first overhang harder than Aventura or Joe, defo 5a. I think pitch two feels HVS 5a also.
mattprince 26 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Led 1st pitch VS 4c
Led 1st pitch VS 4c
joedoherty 26 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Nice climbing, not too bold really. Peg is bomber
Nice climbing, not too bold really. Peg is bomber
paultaylor 16 Jun, 2014 AltLd P1
P1
ian d f 16 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Paul K, Pete H
with Paul K, Pete H
Nexonen 18 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Sophie
with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 18 May, 2014 AltLd rpt
with Andy J
with Andy J
Ash Sayers 4 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Robin Woodward ?May, 2014 Lead Ollie lead first pitch (uninspiring), but belayed too early, then I started up to the belay proper only two find two angry nesting gulls, so we ended up backing off and leaving some tat and a nut.
Ollie lead first pitch (uninspiring), but belayed too early, then I started up to the belay proper only two find two angry nesting gulls, so we ended up backing off and leaving some tat and a nut.
Peter Lovell 11 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 1 Mar, 2014 AltLd rpt Led P2. I always underestimate this pitch.
with AlexD
Led P2. I always underestimate this pitch.
with AlexD
AlexD 1 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S led p1. wild!
led p1. wild!
Monkey_Alan 28 Jul, 2013 AltLd rpt Led P2.
Led P2.
Julian Prieto 28 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P1
Led P1
crossdressingrodney 21 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
with AlexM
with AlexM
Hidden 21 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
ianto ??, 2013 -
Hidden 15 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
mikehenesy 17 Jun, 2012 AltLd dog couldn't remember a thing from last time, got shagged trying to get round the bulge on the right - wrong way. Cracking second pitch led bt Chris.
with Chris Lodge
couldn't remember a thing from last time, got shagged trying to get round the bulge on the right - wrong way. Cracking second pitch led bt Chris.
with Chris Lodge
Hidden ?Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 May, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 May, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 14 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S
tobydunford 14 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
with Dave Ripley
with Dave Ripley
Chris Sansum 6 Nov, 2011 AltLd O/S Sian p1, Chris p2.
with sian88
Sian p1, Chris p2.
with sian88
sian88 6 Nov, 2011 AltLd O/S
Graham Westbrook 16 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Ceridwen 30 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
with Andy Mosienko
with Andy Mosienko
Monkey_Alan 24 Jul, 2011 AltLd rpt Led P2.
with Bisset
Led P2.
with Bisset
Hidden 24 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
L.miura 3 Jul, 2011 2nd
with Peter Roberts, Ali Bahar
with Peter Roberts, Ali Bahar
Hidden ?Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Ali.B ?Jul, 2011 Lead O/S If the 2nd pitch is 5a, then the 1st pitch must be 5b! most definately harder and certainly felt harder than E1's that i have done to date. Top is littered with loose choss, but still a very fine route.
If the 2nd pitch is 5a, then the 1st pitch must be 5b! most definately harder and certainly felt harder than E1's that i have done to date. Top is littered with loose choss, but still a very fine route.
norb ?Jun, 2011 2nd
dickie01 10 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Joe Heasman
with Joe Heasman
LucaC 12 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
ben.richards 12 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S The line of pitch 1 is confusing - the overhangs above the corner do not seem to go at 4c. Luca took a nice line out left under them (more suited to the grade) then climbed to the fault. Pitch two: the RF guide says to climb up then trend rightwards to top out but the rock was very chossy so I trended left instead, up a technical wall, past a peg and finised up a shallow corner...I think it was actually the right way to go!
with LucaC
The line of pitch 1 is confusing - the overhangs above the corner do not seem to go at 4c. Luca took a nice line out left under them (more suited to the grade) then climbed to the fault. Pitch two: the RF guide says to climb up then trend rightwards to top out but the rock was very chossy so I trended left instead, up a technical wall, past a peg and finised up a shallow corner...I think it was actually the right way to go!
with LucaC
Hidden ??, 2011 AltLd
Different Steve 25 Sep, 2010 Lead rpt
with Nick
with Nick
DaNo123 25 Sep, 2010 AltLd dog Guy 1st Pitch. Lost way on second, broke handhold, clipped to peg - lobed!
with GUY
Guy 1st Pitch. Lost way on second, broke handhold, clipped to peg - lobed!
with GUY
Bram 20 Sep, 2010 AltLd
djking1983 20 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Bram
with Bram
duncan 19 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
Dave Thompson 19 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
with duncan
with duncan
brian watson 11 Jul, 2010 2nd
Hidden 11 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Monkey_Alan 20 Jun, 2010 AltLd rpt Led P2.
with Tom Thorne, Mark James
Led P2.
with Tom Thorne, Mark James
Hidden 13 Jun, 2010 Lead rpt
Marti999 13 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Martin Davies 9 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S Lead 1st. Funky moves pulling through the overhangs, felt more like E1 to be honest! Are you meant to go left? Top pitch was pretty hard, maybe deserving HVS? Rusty pegs!
with Tom Smart
Lead 1st. Funky moves pulling through the overhangs, felt more like E1 to be honest! Are you meant to go left? Top pitch was pretty hard, maybe deserving HVS? Rusty pegs!
with Tom Smart
dan gibson 14 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
with jacquie robinson
Monkey_Alan 30 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S Led 1st pitch. Struggled at the steep bulge, but got through eventually.
Led 1st pitch. Struggled at the steep bulge, but got through eventually.
uncontrollable 30 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S Alan p1, me p2
Alan p1, me p2
Jane Weir ??, 2010 Lead
LJKing 12 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Rob Marson
with Rob Marson
mikehenesy 9 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S First pitch was nails getting round the overhang, maybe I did it wrong, that's where I found the 5a. Pro was fine though. Didn't see what the fuss was about on the second pitch, Tom did lead it though. I dodged the falling rocks just fine, best to belay under the break on the wobbly rock.
with Tom Boeux
First pitch was nails getting round the overhang, maybe I did it wrong, that's where I found the 5a. Pro was fine though. Didn't see what the fuss was about on the second pitch, Tom did lead it though. I dodged the falling rocks just fine, best to belay under the break on the wobbly rock.
with Tom Boeux
RussB 24 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
trev_f 6 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
Hidden 14 Feb, 2009 2nd O/S
scott titt ??, 2009 -
Matt Bennett 28 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S
Mike Weatherill ?Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
georgeevans88 5 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S
with Ben
with Ben
manwithacam 24 Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S Great climb, deserves extra star I think. Bottom pitch harder than top unless you eat overhangs for breakfast
with Alex
Great climb, deserves extra star I think. Bottom pitch harder than top unless you eat overhangs for breakfast
with Alex
garburn 29 Jan, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Sophie Nunn
with Sophie Nunn
clipskipper 27 Jan, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Ed Babington
with Ed Babington
Ed Babs 27 Jan, 2008 AltLd O/S
brian watson ??, 2008 AltLd O/S
with harry massey
with harry massey
Sophie Nunn 4 Aug, 2007 AltLd
andy jennings ?Aug, 2007 2nd O/S
MontyH 28 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S struggled today? mind just isnt on it
with Paul Milton
struggled today? mind just isnt on it
with Paul Milton
Hidden 2 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 22 Dec, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Oct, 2006 AltLd O/S
Boxy 15 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
mike.moss ??, 2006 AltLd O/S
Ramon Marin 20 May, 2005 Lead O/S
with Ben Gilbert
with Ben Gilbert
bigie bob ??, 2005 Lead O/S
feilx ??, 2005 -
Jason Gotel ?Aug, 2004 Lead
with Pippa Lansdown
with Pippa Lansdown
mikeyjbs 16 May, 2004 AltLd O/S
with will woodhead, jeremy leicester, dan, paul kenny, hans allnut, simon ball, farrow
with will woodhead, jeremy leicester, dan, paul kenny, hans allnut, simon ball, farrow
benjino ?Jan, 2004 -
Hidden 7 Sep, 2003 AltLd O/S
andyfeds 6 Sep, 2003 Lead
with Andy C
with Andy C
ohsteveo ?Aug, 2003 Lead Led first pitch, Rich led second. Awesome roof on first and dodgy looking piton on second.....spectacular route....
with Rich Gautier
Led first pitch, Rich led second. Awesome roof on first and dodgy looking piton on second.....spectacular route....
with Rich Gautier
Nigel Coe 13 Oct, 1985 AltLd
scott titt 13 Oct, 1985 AltLd
Nigel Coe 31 Dec, 1982 2nd My knee 'popped' on a 'floppy bridging' move on the first pitch, so handed over the lead to Tim and needed a tight rope to escape, before limping back to the car.
with Tim Dunsby
My knee 'popped' on a 'floppy bridging' move on the first pitch, so handed over the lead to Tim and needed a tight rope to escape, before limping back to the car.
with Tim Dunsby
Chris Terrey ?Sep, 1978 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
with Gerry Dunford
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 28
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set