Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A great trip - very exposed and a touch run-out on the second pitch. The first pitch has suffered a rockfall but has been re-climbed with no change in grade.
1) 5b, 20m. Climb the corner with ironstone flakes - just left of the rockfall - to the roof. Move left to a crack that leads to the faultline. Belay on the right.
2) 5c, 25m. Follow flakes on the right and then traverse out right above the roof to ledges. Climb the wall just left of the arete past a spike to a break. Exit up a short groove. © Rockfax
FA. Crispin Waddy, Andy Ford 31/Jul/1985.
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Russian Roulette
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Cave Hole)