Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A worthwhile route that follows a line just right of the abseil, starting 10m left of the huge groove of Scythe. Climb on good holds to a thin crack in a smooth wall and follow it to the faultline. Continue direct to cross a strip-roof and then use a crack to reach a short flake. Swing left then make a hard move through another overhang via a steep groove to an exit corner. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 29.10.1989. Using a self belay system..
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Facedancin'
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Guillemot Ledge)