Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A fine sustained route that begins just left of the huge groove of Scythe.
1) 5a, 20m. Gain a small ledge (poor peg). Pass a bulge and follow a crack-line to a small, exposed stance, 3m above the faultline.
2) 5a, 20m. Traverse left under roofs and pull over, as for Prayers for Rain, at a good block. Skirt the roofs above and right, then move back left to a short corner. Swing right then pass some final roofs by another hand-traverse rightwards to easier ground. Belay stake on the upper slope. © Rockfax
FA. Tim Dunsby, R.Lovett 06/Jun/1984.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ian bryant | 12 Mar, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: I'd always steered clear of this route in the past as the name put me off! But do it, it's really good at the grade, with decent gear (could even be HVS) but watch for rope drag on 2nd pitch. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I'd always steered clear of this route in the past as the name put me off! But do it, it's really good at the grade, with decent gear (could even be HVS) but watch for rope drag on 2nd pitch. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
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Thunderball
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)