Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
An outstanding Swanage classic up the steep cracks and over a mid-height bulge on the left-hand side of the wall. Very pumpy but well protected. Start at a slab just right of the base of the crack-line. Follow the slab easily left to the base of the crack and climb it to the mid-height break. Pull through the steep bulge above to a shake-out at a good hold on the left. Continue up the thinner (but less steep) crack above the good hold to a point where a step left gains easier climbing and the top. © Rockfax
FA. Kevin Turner, Nick Buckley, S.Bartlett 3.1979. FFA. Steve Monks, Gordon Jenkin 21.11.81.
Ticklists
Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Littlejohn South West Climbs , Trad climbs for sport climbers , West Country Climbs , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , Swanage wild pumpfests , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Ultimate E3 ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , Dorset weekender , The 30 best E3 routes in the UK? , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| jamieevans | 9 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Finally :) was taken down a peg by this route 12+ years ago. if anyone left any property at the top of this route recently send me a message. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Finally :) was taken down a peg by this route 12+ years ago. if anyone left any property at the top of this route recently send me a message. |
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| ian bryant | 17 Sep, 2007 |
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βeta: good, but i've done better! also, it's much, much easier than soul sacrifice. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: good, but i've done better! also, it's much, much easier than soul sacrifice. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
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Russian Roulette
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Cave Hole)