Rockfax Description
An outstanding Swanage classic. It follows the steep cracks and mid-height bulge towards the left-hand side of the wall. Very pumpy but also very well protected. Start at a slab just right of the base of the unrelenting crack-line. Follow the slab easily left to the base of the crack-line and climb it to the mid-height horizontal break. Pull through the steep bulge above to a shake out at a good hold on the left. Continue up the thinner, but less-steep crack above the good hold to a point where a step left gains easier climbing and the top. © Rockfax

FA. Kevin Turner, Nick Buckley, S.Bartlett 3.79. FFA. Steve Monks ,Gordon Jenkin 21.11.81 Mar/1979

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Littlejohn South West Climbs, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Swanage wild pumpfests, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate E3 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, Dorset weekender, The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Richard Kendrick 15/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Misha
Misha 15/Oct/17 2nd rpt

Third time I've done this and it's still amazing. Seconded it fairly quickly and got a bit pumped.

Hidden 23/Sep/17 2nd O/S
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 22/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Ed Bulman
Matt Cooke 20/Aug/17 2nd rpt
Hidden 20/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Mike Weatherill 08/Jul/17 Lead rpt
with Toby, Vicky Weatherill
Mike Weatherill 08/Jul/17 2nd rpt
with Toby
Liam Ingram 03/Jul/17 Lead O/S
klcmunro 03/Jul/17 2nd
brian watson 02/Jun/17 Lead RP

So pumpy !!!! First time leading this.

with Ellis Bird
LJC 23/Apr/17 2nd rpt
with Herve
bede.west 08/Apr/17 Lead rpt

Retro flash. Bloody amazing! Best E3 I've ever been on.

ricci.andrea86 08/Apr/17 Lead rpt
hervenuttall ?/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with LJC
JendeHoxar 18/Mar/17 2nd rpt
with Flavio
Flavio 18/Mar/17 Lead O/S
julesmckim 15/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Proper rock! None of the usual shortbread and flint that most of Swanage seems to be made of. What a fantastic wall. Best route I've done at Swanage. Great holds and gear and continued interest right to the top. Magnificent. Must come back for Mother Africa and Barracuda.

with Rob Smart
Tubs 06/Nov/16 Lead β

On Andy's gear up to the break. Glorious jug hauling that is, as promised, very well protected.

with AJM
AJM 06/Nov/16 2nd β

Excellent route!

islandlynx 24/Sep/16 2nd rpt
TomRiddelsdell 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Bit cheeky claiming the onsight as I'd been on Barracuda earlier in the day. However, as it's my first e3 I'm taking it. Allowed myself to be convinced to give it a bash as the gear looked great from the ground....and it was. A super safe route that gets its grade due to the relentless steepness. Can't remember a specific crux but by half way I was pumped out of my mind, enough so that I happily clung 2 handed to the worryingly wobbly jug at the ledge. Got through the last few moves is a rather desperate fashion and was very glad to see the top!

Shane Willis 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S

What a delightful experience! First E3 and I loved every second of it. Felt pumped really low down on the route and started to worry, but there were plenty of places to gain back a bit of forearm... I chose not to rest on the wobbliest jug in the world though haha. There are plenty of solid places near it to rest on anyway. If I could have designed and made the perfect climb for me I would have made this and put it exactly where it is!

Dale Comley 28/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Got fully submerged by a wave at the belay

Matt Cooke 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S
tobypittstucker 18/Aug/16 2nd
Mike Weatherill 18/Aug/16 Lead dog
with Toby
Misha 13/Aug/16 2nd

Great fun and didn't really feel hard seconding as it's the hanging around placing gear which gets the pump on. Led a year earlier.

with Eszter
Hidden 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
bryan61 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S

one of the best routes ive ever done

with m meaney
Hidden 03/Aug/16 2nd
JendeHoxar 03/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Ed
tim.fairhall 21/Jul/16 2nd dog

Had to rest on rope to retrieve gear

with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 21/Jul/16 Lead dog

Thought I'd test my mettle and was found to be severely lacking, 2 rests and a fall saw me to the top! Guess 8m of gritstone ain't the best training for this type of route! Good effort from Tim on second though he would have got it clean if he didn't have to frigg out the 2 offset nuts I plummeted onto, sorry dude!

Tom Livingstone 05/May/16 2nd rpt
bencoope 01/May/16 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 29/Apr/16 2nd rpt
Bristoldave 28/Apr/16 Lead rpt
Cheese Monkey 28/Apr/16 2nd O/S

Beautiful. One to come back and lead

with Dave
Matt77 17/Apr/16 2nd O/S

Should've been my first E3 but Shane's rock, paper, scissors skills were too good, the git!

with Shane
islandlynx 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S

First Swanage E3. Easier than I was expecting after reading all the comments about being fit and not feeling that way myself. In fact it was fairly steady with some rests and plenty of gear. Placed loads of nuts and a token cam. No higher than 6b sport. A good route but too unremarkable to be one of the best.

LJKing 17/Apr/16 2nd O/S

A superb climb - although seconding with freezing hands is not recommended.

with Paul Clarkson
ricci.andrea86 ?/Apr/16 Lead
Hidden 13/Mar/16 Lead rpt
mike mo ??/2016 -
thomas108 ??/2016 -
James Oakes 01/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 01/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with noaks
BenL 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Andrea
Mark Stevenson 01/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Misha
Misha 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Hard Very Swanage! Steady if you're fit, every time there's a hard move or two there's a jug just above. Couple of good rests as well (would be better without them!). Hardest thing is placing some of the gear as it's fiddly in those knobbly cracks. Well protected though. Nothing hard but was feeling it a bit towards the top. Very good!

with Mark S
Mark Warnett ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
brices 05/Jul/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Caspian Johnson 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S

So pumpy!

with brices
onlyfoddington 07/Jun/15 2nd dog

Amazing, so steep and sustained. I got to just below the mini break before I pumped out, and afterwards took advantage on many rests.

with Ian
ian d f 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

My first Swanage E3 lead. Very good route.

valecoastclimber 05/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Albachoss 31/May/15 2nd O/S


with Andrea
Okecroak 30/May/15 2nd dog

finished on elbows…….

with I Butler
Hidden 25/May/15 Lead O/S
James Marshall 25/May/15 Lead O/S

Was very worried about getting pumped, but it was fine. Covered in chalk (thanks Ged and Sash) The perfect trad climb in perfect conditions.

with ollie
AlexD 23/May/15 2nd rpt

3 stars just isn't enough for this perfect jugfest!

with Ed
Hidden 04/May/15 2nd
mike mo ?/May/15 Lead O/S

So much fun when you have to try really hard for the onsight

with Simon Pape
Hidden 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
ian bryant ??/2015 -
mike mo ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 Lead O/S
WB 30/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Andy M
Hidden 10/Sep/14 Lead
Nick Russell 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

An awesome juggy pumpfest! Will feel soft if you're used to steep sport climbing. There is a very wobbly jug on the left, approximately where the guidebook indicates a good shakeout. Maybe it's well cammed in but I avoided it entirely - there's no shortage of good holds nearby.

climbingpixie 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Andy
Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/14 Lead O/S
piken ?/Jul/14 -
NancyJones 07/Jun/14 2nd dog
Justin T 07/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Nancy
3 Names 02/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Ed Bulman
AlexD 31/May/14 Lead rpt
with Ed
JM 25/May/14 Lead O/S
with Stevo
markalmack 25/May/14 2nd O/S
with james marjot
Stuart Johnston 05/May/14 2nd dog

Had to rest on a nut to get another out. Pumpy as.

adam 24 05/May/14 Lead rpt

Very pleased to lead it! I seconded last year, but its such an obvious line that onsighting it wouldn't be much harder. Very pumped at the top, but hung in there.

Duncan Campbell 04/May/14 Lead O/S

Blimmin' mega! Pretty pumpy but not too hard for 5b as it is very juggy. Watch out for the top third as there is some loose-ness.

with Bubbles
Billg 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd
Mike_Hayes 03/May/14 2nd
funsized 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

So Good!

with Ian
dan gibson 11/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Tom Livingstone
Tom Livingstone 11/Apr/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 23/Mar/14 Lead O/S
brices 08/Mar/14 2nd rpt

Just as good 2nd time round

with Remus
Hidden 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Luxulyan 20/Aug/13 2nd
with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Richard
Adam Booth 15/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 15/Aug/13 2nd O/S
AlexD 11/Aug/13 2nd
with Richard
Luxulyan 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Alex
mutt 21/Jul/13 Lead dog

fell at the last pinch! Heavy ropes and a hot day! I'll get it clean next time

bede.west 12/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Tom Livingstone 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
BenNorman 10/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Glad to get up this one with my appauling current fitness, doesnt get much better, huge holds everywhere

brices 10/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Amazing one of the best routes ive done, If i could only climb routes like this il be eternaly happy

sparkass 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Used some lank

patrickc 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Sue
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 16/May/13 2nd dog
Hidden 16/May/13 Lead O/S
mes32 05/May/13 2nd dog

When you have to hammer gear out with a hex falling off becomes an inevitability. Awesome route though.

with Wilki
will moy 03/May/13 2nd

Pump Pump Pump.

with Tom
Hidden 03/May/13 Lead O/S
adam 24 21/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Apr/13 2nd dog
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Lead
sonic46 28/Mar/13 2nd dog
ianto ??/2013 -
Tangerine_Kingdom ??/2013 Lead O/S
LJC 07/Oct/12 Lead

Took at 30 footer off the crux, got it ground up second time. Totally underwhelmed.

with Tom
tonevert 29/Sep/12 2nd
Kevster 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Excellent, french 6b with runners everywhere.

Bristoldave 16/Sep/12 2nd β

Really good route

with LukeW
London Luke 16/Sep/12 Lead
with David R
ellis 01/Sep/12 2nd rpt
with Tom Holdsworth, Tom Bridgeland
mikeyjbs 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with andrew caddie
dan gibson 03/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with andre hedger
BeccaSnowden 01/Aug/12 2nd dog
with Mike
London Luke ?/Aug/12 Lead dog
cooperman 25/Jun/12 2nd

As close to a clip as trad can get, great holds, great gear, great route

with Greg Foster
Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
patrickc 16/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with neils
quiffhanger 04/Jun/12 Lead rpt

Raced up it: confidence and minimal gear faff-age helped me avoid the pump :)

mwatson ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
mwatson ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Mark Warnett 26/May/12 Lead O/S

great route; pump is controllable with fitness, holds are massive. solid E3 5b in my book

with Princess Diana
Haydn Jones 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with pep
jacobjlloyd 31/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with Ross
quiffhanger 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Very nice - managed to dodge the pump.

with Jake
Hidden 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Justin T 21/Mar/12 2nd
with Cherry
Ciro 11/Mar/12 Lead RP

Took a fall just before the big break on my onsight attempt on Saturday, then seconded it as my arms were a bit boxed for another attempt. Came back on Sunday and sent it next go... very pleased with that for my first E3.

with Ramon
matt perks ??/2012 -
Ellis Bird ??/2012 Lead O/S
colkurtz 01/Jul/11 2nd
with Robb
Hidden 01/Jul/11 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
tuftynick 28/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/May/11 Lead
Graham Westbrook 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Pumpy! Great route!

feilx 19/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with jon brown
JonBrown 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Clean 2nd, awesome moves and great gear

with Felix
thomb 12/Mar/11 Lead dog

pumpy and relentless, but fantastic gear and holds.

with Harry
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 12/Mar/11 2nd β

Really good! Glad I was on the thick end for this one- my lack of stamina very nearly had me off the mammoth jugs! Felt hard to me, but its been a while since I did any steep trad. Will come back and lead it when I've got a bit of fitness back. What a route!

with Dougie
dswansonlow 12/Mar/11 Lead dog

Soooooooo pumped. I have never been so pumped!

phil64 ??/2011 -
davenev 18/Sep/10 2nd

relentlessly steep............

with luke
Mr Tickle 18/Sep/10 Lead dog

This one hurt like hell! PUMPED!

with davenev
Mike Goldthorp 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Not the best in britain, but still very good. Feels steep at times, but huge holds and plenty of rests.

Alex Mason 11/Aug/10 Lead β

On mikeys gear. Unremarkable, but, remarkably good.

with Mikey G
Hidden 08/Aug/10 2nd
Speeddemonsi 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 15/May/10 Lead O/S
brian watson 15/May/10 TR
dan gibson 13/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with jacquie robinson
Ed Babs 17/Oct/09 Lead RP

awesome. + 2nd with harry 23/06/10 + 2nd with Iain 30/06/11 + 2nd with AlexD 31/05/14 + lead with AlexD 23/05/16 + lead with Eddy 05/11/16

with Mike Hawkins
Hidden 04/Oct/09 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 12/Sep/09 2nd

Also led this in 1989.

with Rab Carrington
Hidden 29/Aug/09 2nd β
Toby Dunn 15/Aug/09 2nd
with Andy Reeve
Ramon Marin 10/Aug/09 Lead β
with Salomon Fernandez
climbergg 05/Jul/09 2nd
Tim M 05/Jul/09 Lead rpt

Last did it 15 years ago!

with Emma
sinbad 04/May/09 Lead dog

two rests - pumped to funk!

eddy-on-the-rocks 04/May/09 Lead O/S

It was bloody cold. Managed to get cramp in my arms! Lots of big nut would be good.

with Sinbad
feilx 21/Mar/09 2nd rpt
with Angus
tobydunford 15/Mar/09 2nd dog
with Angus
Hidden ??/2009 -
feilx 22/Nov/08 Lead rpt
with Steve Mayer
dan gibson 03/Aug/08 Lead rpt
with anna barnes
JPGR 08/May/08 2nd
with Steve
Hidden 24/Feb/08 2nd O/S
Richard Horn 11/Aug/07 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/07 2nd
tonanf ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Pep
Hidden 05/May/07 TR O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/07 TR
trevor macalonan 28/Apr/07 TR dog
with Tim
DrGav 12/Apr/07 2nd dog

Great line but very burly!

with Andrey
Hidden 03/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Kyuzo 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Duncan Steel
dan gibson 21/Sep/06 Lead rpt
with jamie evans
feilx ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Ian Lovatt
bigie bob 18/Mar/06 Lead O/S
feeko ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Ian Jones ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S


with Andy Reeve
Hidden 20/Jul/05 Lead O/S
dan gibson ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with eddie church
Hidden 04/Sep/04 Lead O/S
ap ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/02 Lead
DJonsight ??/2000 -
sadams 22/Jun/98 2nd
with Andy Long
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
Roget 04/Mar/95 Lead O/S
with jon
William Robertson ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
duncan ?/Nov/94 Lead O/S
with Dan Donovan
Hidden ?/Jul/94 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 10/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with KM
Hidden ??/1993 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 13/Jun/92 Lead

Downclimbed first third for a rest.

with Tim Dunsby
Glenn Sutcliffe 02/May/92 -
with keefe
keefe 02/May/92 -
DDDD ??/1992 Lead O/S
with Richard Newey
steve taylor ?/Apr/91 Lead
with stumpy
Dave Musgrove 17/Mar/91 Lead O/S

Super route. Strenuous but one of the best I've done at Swanage.

with Pete Finklaire, Keith Bostrum
clark alston ?/Jan/90 Lead O/S

Essential Swanage.

Robmwatt ??/1990 -
Hidden 26/Jul/88 2nd O/S
frank ramsay ??/1988 Lead
80 users have this on their wishlist
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 61
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 58
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set