Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A typical Swanage roof challenge. Start right of the large roof.
1) 5c, 15m. Climb a wall and crack to the right-hand side of the roof. Swing out past an old peg and surmount the roof leftwards with difficulty into a crack leading to the faultline.
2) 5a, 17m. Head diagonally right via two stepped roofs. Move right again and over a bulge to finish up a solid corner. © Rockfax
FA. Brian Snell, K.Knight 26.7.75. FFA. Gordon Jenkin, Tim Dunsby 10.6.84.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ap | 19 Feb, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: i second that. im 5'11" or so, and it was certainly a struggle... had to do the move off the sloper in the end. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: i second that. im 5'11" or so, and it was certainly a struggle... had to do the move off the sloper in the end. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
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Mars
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)