3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great route with contrasting sections
1) 3, 55m. From the right-hand side of the snow fan, head up and right through icy ground to belay on easy angled ground at the base of the upper gully
2) 3, 45m. Climb the chimney above, pass a jammed boulder and step right to belay beneath the continuation gully
3) 3, 15m. Climb the final gully and surmount a chockstone at the very top. Belay well back. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The less well-defined gully 20m right of Clogwyn Lefthand. A good route on consolidated snow and ice. The 'Direct' version is much harder and starts as for Clogwyn LH, taking the right hand fork in the gully low down as for Clogwyn Central.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Snowdonia Easy Winter Climbs.

running_blind 01/Apr 2nd

Ascent to cwm via Idwall Staircase; 1st 25m looked promising but condition at first rocks no more than a dusting of snow & soggy turf, telling us the temperatures had not been as low as anticipated from forecast. Backed off; headed up gully of Left Hand Branch (IV, 5) for first 2 pitches (ice melting faster than we could climb!) to take Variation traverse out right; finished via top 2 pitches of Right Hand Branch on good snow & occasional ice, squeezed past ice umbrella to finish. Good weather, not as cold as expected, best snow & ice within top 50m or so of summit. Excellent winter day in the mountains.

with Paul Addison
Hidden 21/Mar AltLd O/S
Niallhum 08/Mar Lead O/S

good nick, climbed at night.

with chalk
Matt Amos 17/Feb Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Feb AltLd
Chrissy202 17/Feb AltLd O/S
with Gorg_D
HazelMacLean 17/Feb 2nd β
Rosie Henstock 17/Feb Lead O/S
LJJ77 16/Feb -
with Sam, Neil
mattfarr 15/Feb AltLd O/S
with TGreen
TGreen 15/Feb AltLd O/S
Brian Wilderspin 15/Feb Solo O/S

Excellent conditons

Ewan Russell 12/Feb AltLd O/S

OK condition, definitely in but ice not excellent.

kelly_426 12/Feb AltLd O/S
with Ewan Russel
James Rigby 06/Feb AltLd O/S
with Toby
Craigyboy13 06/Feb 2nd

really nice route. fairly thin in terms of ice.

O'Donopoo 05/Feb AltLd

Topped off in dark, soloed first pitch

GHawksworth 19/Jan Solo O/S

Quite lean but good enough to have fun on!

James-m-h 19/Jan AltLd
with joedean
Just_Waltr 09/Jan AltLd O/S
with Josh Butler
The_Boy_ODwyer 16/Dec/17 Lead O/S

First winter route in two years. Great fun!

with Jim
chris cockbain 15/Dec/17 Lead O/S

Great few pitches with decent ice

hoppojoe7 ?/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
griffithpatrick 12/Feb/17 AltLd
morgan91 12/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Feb/17 2nd O/S
geoff b 14/Jan/17 Lead

Back again. Not much viz., not much else in but enough frozen turf (where it was exposed), ice & frosty rock to make an enjoyable day out for the youth. Wild & windy on top.

with Callum B
Andrew Knight ??/2017 AltLd
geoff b 05/Mar/16 AltLd

Zero visibility in the cwm. Started up Left Hand but there was insufficient ice on the crux pitch so I traversed into the RH version & finished up that. Nice to get a route done in improbable conditions.

with Gary Towyn
Hidden 16/Jan/16 Lead O/S
Charlotte Nelson 16/Jan/16 2nd

Really out of condition, more like swimming than climbing. Made it feel hard for the grade

with Luke
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Robaduck 03/Mar/15 AltLd

Led P2

JessWilliams 14/Feb/15 AltLd
with Dad
Hidden 14/Feb/15 AltLd
Pete_Frost 08/Feb/15 AltLd β

Soloed up to thread belay as yesterday, then led variation tech 4 mixed pitch to belay in "cave". Led next pitch (goes left up a slabby corner) to the top. Great fun. Mono points and leashless axes really bring the effort level down and the enjoyment level up.

with Harri777, Megan Beaumont
caradoc 08/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

We did the left hand mixed finish which is the route as described in Welsh Winter Climbs, Cicerone. Quite gnarly and awkward, the other finish looked a lot more pleasant and a bit more in keeping with the overall character of the climb. Video here..

with emma v.
Dizz 08/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Actually did this twice as other stuff busy or not in, in two different 2 pitch ccombinations (solo approach pitch) .. first time usual start with VI variant top pitch, second time variant left hand first pitch at about IV then I led III finish.

Harri777 08/Feb/15 2nd

With the variation mixed finish. Awesome!

with Pete F, Megan Beaumont
jonnyboy 07/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Pete_Frost 07/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Soloed up to the thread belay, then led the next pitch.

with Anthony Eccles
adie84 07/Feb/15 -
Hidden 07/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Sarah Black 07/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Lovely condition. Climbed at the end of the day with no crowds to watch the sunset from the top.

Hidden 07/Feb/15 AltLd
wynniemandela 07/Feb/15 2nd
Hidden 05/Feb/15 AltLd
jezb1 05/Feb/15 AltLd

P1 & P2. Really good and v good conditions.

gravity 01/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Great route. I really enjoyed it. A few steep steps. Jon led P1 and P3, I led P2. Good conditions with plenty of solid ice and firm neve. We were slow though, maybe 4 hours. Delays mostly due to faffing to find and build belays and runners.

with Jon Leighton
jonleighton 01/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Robboj ?/Feb/15 2nd O/S
with Stu
geoff b 31/Jan/15 Solo

A great day out in the mountains; glorious weather to solo easy routes up & down the cwm. A couple of steepish steps on this but otherwise a lovely route on great ice & neve.

stratandrew 31/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Great conditions. Done in two long rope stretching 60 m pitches Jim P1, Me P2.

with Jim Symon
Hoyes 24/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
Moritz L 24/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Soloed majority of first pitch. Dan lead across the ice step, I lead second pitch, Dan did the last pitch

Hidden 24/Jan/15 AltLd
David Kay 24/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
iwanap 24/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

No ice on the final pitch.

with Euryn
Dan0Me 24/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Jan/15 -
robgixer 24/Jan/15 Lead

took left hand groove to finish iv 4

JasonK 24/Jan/15 AltLd
Lumbering Oaf 24/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

led part of P3. Thought P2 sectioh the crux.

wolf.leeb 22/Jan/15 Solo O/S
Qureshi 20/Jan/15 2nd O/S
JamesWilliams 20/Jan/15 Lead O/S

Awesome! pretty sustained second pitch i though. lots of interest on pitch one some great mixed climbing. The hollow bell hasn't yet formed on the top pitch but its still good sport. harder than invernookie in cairngorms

with Qureshi
Hidden ??/2015 -
loic.menzies ??/2014 AltLd
with John roberts
Hidden 29/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
anthonydouglas 20/Mar/13 2nd


with CLetham
Hidden 20/Mar/13 Lead
jjclarke70 20/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
with juza
cripper 20/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

midge led first to the start of the gully, i led through the gully and up the crux, midge led the last 15ft or so just onto the top. good route, snow was very powdery though.

with midge
Alex.M-M. 20/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Done in 2 pitches, led p. 1. Ice feature as described in NW winter climbing was well formed.

with chris ripper
Webster 19/Mar/13 Lead O/S

powder on lower sections, good mixed in the middle, fully formed ice mushroom on the crux in tech 4 state.

leo-z-g 19/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Webster
Hidden 16/Mar/13 AltLd
philboy 16/Mar/13 AltLd
Misha 02/Mar/13 Solo O/S

Walked in to find 2 teams of 3 on LH. Went to look at Cleft, not enough ice. Soloed Hidden RH finish, entertaining with a few unexpected dry tooling moves to finish over the chockstone. Back down, LH still busy so soloed RH. Turned out to be good fun and pretty hard for a III as it was narrow, thin and steep in places. The ice and neve were great though. Didn't really need turf but that was solid as well. Getting over the capping chandelier was a bit challenging and Ian asked for a rope for that bit. Topped out into blazing sunshine, great views, no wind and feeling pretty warm. A stunning winter day. Walked off down the Kitchen path.

with Ian W
Hidden 02/Mar/13 AltLd
maybe_si 01/Mar/13 Solo O/S
kim.mulji 12/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Long slog up to route, via top of winter route on left of Idwal slabs. Seconded first pitch, which partner found hard to protect. Only had a 50m rope, so belay set up at first solid ice. I led next pitch, though climbed up off off narrow gulley steeply up right to belay off bomber thread, as I though I'd run out of rope (partner couldn't see for the stuff I was throwing down on him!)! Partner led up, and over crux to the easier ground. Descent over corniced edge, and steep snow was a bit hairy, especially as light failed 1/3 way down or so! Epic after epic after epic really!

Dom Whillans 09/Feb/13 AltLd
with a.crook
Hidden 09/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
industrialiceman 20/Jan/13 -
Darrell Read 19/Jan/13 AltLd
with 31770
sam coward 04/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with Paul
tom_holdsworth 04/Feb/12 AltLd
with Chris Postlethwaite
Pay Attention 04/Feb/12 Lead
Hidden 03/Feb/12 AltLd
Andy_B39 03/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with James Taylor, Ben Rigby
wi11 01/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with GAL
tskelhon ?/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with Jack
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 09/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
jparry75 24/Dec/10 AltLd
with m.evans
Steven Andrews 05/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Started up Left Hand but moved right from the peg belay as there was no ice to step left on to and the turf seemed a little unreliable to get up under the overhang.

with Richard Lines
Ian Andrews 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Starting to thaw! Norm & Wayne followed us up.

with Pete Williams
Will Smith 14/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Soloed first couple of ice steps, then Rob led 50m with no runners. I led over the chandelier to the top. Nice route and ice still in good nick, although completely hooked out.

with lithos
pebbles 14/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

done as two pitches me p1, julian p2.nice route, lots of ice

with julian
lithos 14/Mar/10 AltLd

good route, some steps, some snow and a nice chandelier to finnish

Ben ski 13/Mar/10 2nd
with Philip Leadbeater
Simon Caldwell 13/Mar/10 AltLd

Really good, lots of ice on the first pitch and a nice ice umbrella to finish. I led P1 & 3, C led P2.

with Lemming
Hidden 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Mar/10 AltLd rpt
TimPerkin 08/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with Colin Beechey
philhilo 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Fantastic day, fantastic conditions. reasonably stiff for 3. Su romped up it. Amazing for first ice climb. Great umbrella above last belay.

Hidden 07/Mar/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/10 AltLd rpt
Hidden 07/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Feb/10 AltLd
bob johnson 25/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

considering temperature it was in good nick - no problems although the fan at the top was an awkward surprise - belly flopped over - no points for style

with Al Borrett
Hidden 23/Feb/10 AltLd
Ralfy 19/Feb/10 Lead O/S

Thin. First 2 pitches I/II. did 60m(1st pitch) started 8m lower than guide. Up narrowing gully 40m (could not find cave or boulder) traverse right then up 3m to belay spot bottom of very small ice pillar. last pitch thin, no gear for 10m then ice screw. 40m last pitch.

with Adam, markthompson
Hidden 17/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Dave Foster 14/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Quite a bit of ice coming down from team above. Good route though.

with Andy
bms 10/Feb/10 AltLd

An ice umbrella had formed across the top of the crux pitch which took some time to flank on rocks to the right. Otherwise perfect conditions.

with BCS
AB1965 10/Feb/10 Solo
Hidden 08/Feb/10 Solo O/S
jandyd05 07/Feb/10 Lead O/S

A fine route in good weather and my first full on III lead (done some II/III):-)The route was a little thin in places, and I felt the ice falls, though short were harder than tech 3. Descended via easy gully (I)which was pretty steep at the top and ended up leaving the crag in the dark !

frost 07/Feb/10 Solo
with D Garry
stuart34 07/Feb/10 2nd
with stu_buchan43, James Monypenny
Karlos 07/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Good build up of ice in initial fault line, but showing signs of the thaw. Solid snow in the narrow gully above, but little gear to protect final icefall. Was steep due to chandeleer effect, but short lived. Topped out into a wonderful inversion.

Hidden 07/Feb/10 AltLd
mux 07/Feb/10 Solo
with frost
Hidden 07/Feb/10 2nd
Hidden ?/Feb/10 2nd
Hidden ?/Feb/10 Lead
Hidden ?/Feb/10 2nd O/S
chrissloan84 10/Jan/10 Solo O/S
with paul
MBrear 03/Jan/10 2nd O/S
with lukef
Hidden ?/Jan/10 -
Mark Reeves ??/2010 Lead

Nice alternative and easy when not great conditions at the bottom.

mynyddresident ?/Dec/09 AltLd

Early season conditions, not much ice really. Went exploring out left after the narrow rock walled gully, may have been the actual line? Climbed a wide corner crack at about IV 5 .Fun.

with geraint
jamesh 14/Feb/09 Lead
with Emily Price
kenneM ?/Feb/09 Lead

Climbed with Willy T (date approximate) the weekend he smashed his car up.

with Will Taylor
davebrox ??/2009 AltLd

Paul James

jcurley 10/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
with FedUp
mikelaing ?/Dec/08 2nd
with Mark Handford
mike.moss ??/2007 Solo O/S
Hidden 23/Mar/06 Solo
geoff b 04/Mar/06 AltLd

We escaped up this after trying the Left Hand Gully which had a thin layer of verglas but was unclimbable (by us).

MikePycroft 04/Mar/06 AltLd
with geoff b
MikePycroft 04/Mar/06 AltLd
with geoff b
Big Lee 26/Feb/06 AltLd O/S
with MikeR
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Mar/05 AltLd
Tom M Williams ?/Jan/05 AltLd O/S
with Pete ?
The Bad Cough ??/2003 -
with Paul Beacall
nickcanute 21/Jan/01 -
with matt silcox
Hidden 16/Jan/00 AltLd O/S
NeilGriffiths 18/Dec/99 AltLd
with Tom Hubbard, James Hubbard
MikePycroft 13/Feb/94 Solo
MikePycroft 13/Feb/94 Solo
steveb2006 13/Feb/94 Solo

Both solo this line. Pleasant enough.

Hidden 16/Jan/91 AltLd
Nick Biven 16/Nov/85 -
Hidden 21/Jan/84 Solo
Hidden 01/Jan/80 AltLd
RichardMc 24/Feb/79 -
with Dave Langmead
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High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Votes cast 25
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
High 2
Mid 2
Low 2
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 25
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set