120m, 3 pitches. The chimney pitch requires a good build up of ice and is awkward.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

philhilo 17/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

Planned to do Variations but got to the chimney pitch and seemed rude to ignore the fat ice. Took the ice all the way to the chockstone. Steep, awkward, narrow and pumpy at the top. Glad of the rest and full length screw just before the tricky bit. Ian took last pitch - tricky moves around corner onto ramp, buried in snow this time.

with ian wyatt
mrphilipoldham 14/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

Jumping on to a V after only leading one III and the odd II/III.. great idea! Had to reattach my right crampon half way up the crux pitch, calves were screaming by the top. Good job I like chimneys. Finished out to the right.

devious wally 14/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
geoff b 12/Dec/17 AltLd rpt

In great condition, though I did find it tricky kicking my feet in whilst in the cleft with a pack on my back. Rod got the main pitch (P2) and I finished over to the right this time. Lampard-Brewer looked in condition but it was turning blizzard-like by then so we raced off.

with Rod W
Hidden 11/Feb/15 Lead
adie84 08/Feb/15 -
The Grist 08/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Led this as part of the lampard-brewer route which Misha led in fine style. Two excellent grade 7 pitches (this route is not currently in the ukc database) .

with Misha
Derek Ryden 07/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

P2 climbed on ice, with use of rock for right foot/back. Finished up Lampard Brewer.

geoff b 07/Feb/15 AltLd

In great condition: the ice fall outside the chimney allowed a bit of 'back & footing' before swinging onto the overhanging finish. We finished across the jaw-dropping Lampard-Brewer finish, both having done the original finish before.

with Derek Blizzard
The old James turnbull 05/Feb/15 -
with John Crook
Hidden 05/Feb/15 Lead O/S
mynyddresident 04/Feb/15 Lead

By the lesser ascended ice line on the outside of the pillar. Pretty fat but a delicate touch required with the ice.

with wolf
wolf.leeb 04/Feb/15 2nd O/S

Delicate and bold moves on some thin and occasionally hollow ice.. VII 6 on the day for nic imo.

with nic
Hidden 03/Feb/15 2nd
Alex Winter 25/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

What a pig. Should have left my bag at the bottom.

with Nick
Nick Russell 24/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Brutal thrutching up the verglassed chimney, a relief to top out. Stayed left on the top pitch up a short but steep ice/turf groove.

Hidden 24/Jan/15 Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 24/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Led 1st and 3rd pitches, Tony led crux chimney. Don't climb with a sack like I did! Really good route. The chimney is pretty technical and strenuous but adequately protected. A pity about the one and a half hour queue at the start of that pitch!

with Tony Ball
Hidden ??/2015 -
mike.moss 24/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Grade 3 chimney on P1 climbed in big boots and gloves, but the rest in winter condition.

Dave Almond 08/Feb/13 AltLd

Finished up Lampard Brewer. Exposed moves above the pillar on not so clever gear

frost 08/Feb/13 AltLd

Finished up the Lampard Brewer.

with D Almond
roberts1234567890 26/Jan/13 2nd
danJBA 26/Jan/13 Lead O/S

Climbed in 2x 50m pitches

Ollie B 26/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

P2. Lots of gutteral noises made for a porn film esq ascent.

with T.Ripley
guy757 23/Jan/13 -
kenneM 23/Jan/13 AltLd

Climbed with Carl a great route.

with Carl Davies
Jack.H.92 03/Feb/12 AltLd
Tom Livingstone 01/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
tskelhon ?/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with Jack
Cardi 18/Dec/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant involved action

with Clare D
Hidden 09/Jan/11 AltLd
centurion05 ??/2011 Lead
with stu joyce, rusty
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 18/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
tlmarjot 18/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
with Chris Todd, Ben Lea
david morse 02/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Climbed inside the chimney, plenty of pro. Pretty steady if you like this sort of thing. Traversed into Clogwyn gully left hand which had good ice. A very worthwhile route

with glyn+the boss
Glyn 02/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Great route, I found seconding p2 with a pack on desperate!

Pete Graham 28/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
with Tom Powell, Tom Everett
Mr Powly 28/Nov/10 AltLd
tom.e 28/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
BorisVBlade 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Led all pitches. Crux pitch tech 6 with very little ice. Extremely enjoyable mixed climbing!

with Guillaume Billardon
Hidden 07/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Mar/10 AltLd β
philboy 06/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with will, matt g
mynyddresident 16/Feb/10 Lead

Considered going direct but the thaw meant the ice wasn't frozen to the rock. Gave in to the thrutch but sneaked in a traverse back to the ice choke to finish on the left hand side.

with liam
Hidden 31/Jan/10 AltLd
Misha 30/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Excellent, memorable route, well worth the walk-in. P1 provided a nice mixed warm-up. The ice on P2 was pretty thin with no obvious rock gear available higher up and the capping ice choke looked like hard work to get round, so after moving up a few metres I thought better of it and traversed right to do battle with the chimney! A series of contortions, back-and-footing, the odd knee and lots of hooking and torqueing saw me up the pitch. Good fun and not too pumpy, and the gear was reasonable. The last pitch provided fairly easy but enjoyable ice climbing to the right of the rock wall (didn't go for the wall as it looked hard and we were short of time - verglas without any decent ice). Following a late start, didn't get on the route until 2pm and finished just as it got dark at 6.15pm. Blue skies almost all day long, magic! Led P2 and P3.

with Phil
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High VI
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