UKC

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Reported loose rock on Jefferson Slab

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 21 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Last Butt One Level:

Choughs are now in the broken area to the left of Uluru Magic and right of Rejoice. There is no restriction on climbing at present but please avoid this area and keep noise to a minimum. Due to an increase in roosting birds, please avoid climbing during dusk (1hour before sunset). 

Level 3:

A new pair of choughs are nesting on the left-hand side of this level. Please avoid all routes to the left of Cubism Groove

25m.

Rockfax Description
Desperately thin and run-out climbing. A clip-stick is useful. © Rockfax

FA. Neil Dyer 2004.

Ticklists

North Wales Limestone Sport 7s , UK 8a and up

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ben Farley 1 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Defo take a clip stick unless supremely confident and able to work out the technical moves above a bolt. I didn’t think the bolts were badly placed although I do see how the high step just above one of the bolts is a bit dodgy. It’s certainly not overbolted…
Show beta
βeta: Defo take a clip stick unless supremely confident and able to work out the technical moves above a bolt. I didn’t think the bolts were badly placed although I do see how the high step just above one of the bolts is a bit dodgy. It’s certainly not overbolted…
anguskille 24 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Bring a clipstick. The bolts are spaced and unfortunately placed below crucial footholds. On the lead, this can put the rope behind your leg on at least one of the crux sections. It's often hard to get between the bolts until you know what you're doing (unless you're a complete wad) and you can lose loads of skin and energy slapping to non-existent holds. Very good climbing though
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bring a clipstick. The bolts are spaced and unfortunately placed below crucial footholds. On the lead, this can put the rope behind your leg on at least one of the crux sections. It's often hard to get between the bolts until you know what you're doing (unless you're a complete wad) and you can lose loads of skin and energy slapping to non-existent holds. Very good climbing though

Logged Ascents

17 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Penmaenbach Quarry

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Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Toproped
Lead
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Robinson Cruiser

Grade: 8a ***
(The Diamond)

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