Rockfax Description
III, 1000m, 4 - 5 hours. A long route which, in good conditions, gives the full north face experience without any tough climbing. However, the route can be hard when thin or if the snow is not well frozen so finding out current conditions is strongly advised. Often climbed by people going to do the Direct but finding conditions aren't in.
Approach - From the Plan de l'Aiguille, follow the path south towards the Glacier des Pélerins. The path ends up on a moraine ridge with the Glacier on the right and the west face of the Aiguille du Peigne on the left. Follow the path up the moraine ridge and where it drifts left towards the Peigne Normal Route head directly towards the Tournier Spur. For the Frendo Spur, follow the path up the moraine ridge and then cross the glacier where the path runs out above Pointe 2468 and head directly for the spur. There is some serac and rockfall danger on the final section of the approach and at the start of the route, so get established on the initial ramp before stopping for a drink! For the Eugster routes, continue traversing to the next snowy bay. The Eugster Diagonal begins from here.
1) Follow the couloir up 45 degree snow for 300m.
2) Branch off left and climb low-angled snowy mixed ground (hard when dry) to reach a 50 degree snow couloir.
3) Follow this to the 'demi-lune' where the route joins the Mallory-Porter.
4) (As for the Mallory-Porter). Climb up the upper snowfield before making a long traverse leftwards to reach the foot of the Aiguille du Midi ridge. © Rockfax

QuentinSu 10/May/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Oct/15 Solo rpt
Hidden 20/Oct/15 Solo
benkelsey 19/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Poor acclimatisation route but epic. Started from the valley at 2am, base of route by 6:30, 2/3 of the route by midday where the snow became waist deep powder. Both of us suffering from HAS, it took 5 hours of mental and physical exhaustion with a lot of encouragement and the sight of the midi coming out of the clouds for me to drag mikey up the last 400m to make last lift with seconds to spare. Sketchy climbing above the crevasse as we traversed under the midi rock pinnacle (off route) . Total relief to be off those snow slopes. First time in my life I've ever been broken.

with Mikey
MSchobitz 19/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Left Chamonix at 2:00am. Got to the base of the route by 6:30. Climbed pretty slowly and got fully destroyed. Barely managed to drag ourselves into the Midi Station to catch the last lift down. Terrible snow conditions in the top third. Great effort by Ben for dragging me up the last third when my body completely failed and we werent moving faster than 3 steps a minute..

Hidden 17/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/13 Lead O/S
DigitalSteak 11/Jun/13 Solo
joelevanschamonix 10/Jun/13 AltLd β

with Emily roo
Hidden 27/May/13 -
Ben Briggs ?/May/10 -

Skied as a descent, great fun in easy conditions.

with Brendan
plain kitten ?/Apr/03 Solo


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