17m.

Rockfax Description
6c, S1. A classic, with a soft landing. From halfway along the approach traverse, climb the slab and then the steep pocketed wall above to a big hole. Swing left and make some final tricky moves onto the top slab. Linking from just below the crux to Herman Borg's Basic Pulley Slippage is Freeborn Borg, 7a+, S1, and continuing direct onto the slab is Freeborn Direct, 7a, S1. © Rockfax

FA. Nick Buckley, Kevin Turner 8.79 Aug/1979

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Hard water, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, Dorset weekender, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).


ClimberDateStyle
ricci.andrea86 ?/Apr Solo rpt
James Mitchelmore 23/Sep/16 DWS β
tsyrett 29/Aug/16 DWS
Dan 85 29/Aug/16 DWS rpt
with Ed, John Lynch, Liam, Lewi
john lynch 26/Aug/16 DWS O/S

what a stunner!

with Lewis Andrew
quiffhanger 14/Aug/16 Solo rpt
with Ian C, Jacob
i_a_coops 14/Aug/16 -
Owen Diba 13/Aug/16 DWS β
Hidden 13/Aug/16 DWS β
Owen Diba 13/Aug/16 DWS β
thejunglist 31/Jul/16 DWS β

So so so good. Loved it especially rocking over onto slab at the top

with Team
Hidden 31/Jul/16 DWS
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 24/Jul/16 DWS rpt
bede.west 24/Jul/16 DWS O/S

Wooo! birthday warm up onsight. psyched!

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 24/Jul/16 DWS rpt
Mike_Hayes 23/Jul/16 DWS
with Big Team
Hidden 23/Jul/16 DWS O/S
Alex Norman 16/Jul/16 DWS β

Amazing

will black 16/Jul/16 DWS rpt

First deep water solo of the year!

hankyc 30/May/16 DWS O/S

wanted to do this for a long time, perfect day, so good!

bencoope 07/May/16 DWS O/S
Tom Livingstone 05/May/16 DWS rpt
ricci.andrea86 ??/2016 Solo
burto 30/Aug/15 DWS O/S
with ferdia, hertha
Hidden 29/Aug/15 Solo rpt
Mr Sparkle 29/Aug/15 DWS β

Awesome route - over too quickly though!

Hidden 29/Aug/15 DWS rpt
malx 29/Aug/15 Solo
Hidden 29/Aug/15 DWS rpt
Gus 29/Aug/15 DWS
nathanlee 29/Aug/15 DWS rpt
with Crew
dswansonlow 29/Aug/15 DWS RP
James Oakes 29/Aug/15 DWS β
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 29/Aug/15 DWS rpt
Mike_Hayes 29/Aug/15 DWS O/S
with Big Team
Ram MkiV 29/Aug/15 DWS rpt
AJ007 29/Aug/15 DWS G/U
will smith11 19/Aug/15 DWS β

Done in the rain and wind. Was keen not to take the plunge.

with Frances
Ramon Marin 17/Jul/15 DWS β
with viki harvey
will black 04/Jul/15 Solo G/U

Fist route and fall of the day! Great fun went 2nd attempt when i knew the way!

AlexD 04/Jul/15 Solo rpt
DorsetGareth 04/Jul/15 DWS β

What a climb! Stoked to send it.

tsyrett 04/Jul/15 DWS

Fell on the rock over on my first attempt. Got it second attempt with a big reach to the better higher hold.

Albachoss 04/Jul/15 DWS rpt
Caspian Johnson 04/Jul/15 DWS β
with brices
feilx 04/Jul/15 DWS rpt
dswansonlow 04/Jul/15 DWS rpt
with Alex Banks
JCAshman ?/Jul/15 DWS β
Chubbard 16/Jun/15 DWS rpt

Still scary. I'd forgotten how good the moves were.

with Ollie
ollie_e 16/Jun/15 DWS β

Superb! Fantastic climbing right to the very end.

with Charlie
AaronBosley 10/Jun/15 Solo dnf

Definitely one I want to go back and try again!

pearson9596 07/Jun/15 DWS dnf
quiffhanger 07/Jun/15 DWS rpt
Stuart Johnston 21/Sep/14 Solo β

Very very good

Cheese Monkey 21/Sep/14 Solo β

By the skin of my teeth! Epic!

with Charlie, Rich R
Andrew Barker 16/Sep/14 Solo β

Saw a couple of people climb it on Saturday but didn't like the swell. No problems today. What a great route.

Hidden 13/Sep/14 DWS O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Solo rpt
blaza1 30/Aug/14 Solo β
markalmack 24/Aug/14 Solo O/S
with gwen, james marjot
alexjz 24/Aug/14 Solo β

Woop! incredible route, scary at the top.

Gus 23/Aug/14 Solo
with chris barr, bob hickish
tim newton 23/Aug/14 DWS rpt
Dhonny_Jaws 23/Aug/14 DWS β
James Oswald 23/Aug/14 Solo O/S

Really good, the move up into the undercut is powerful and requires commitment. But the traverse of the lip is fine and the rockover's really good. F6b+?

Duncan Campbell 23/Aug/14 Solo β

Had watched a load of people on it. Pretty steady except for the move into the undercut near the top. Absolutely brilliant. Got very heavily heckled whilst on it - which made it seem less serious.

with Rach
Llinos C 23/Aug/14 Solo O/S
with Cailean Harker, Gav Simmons, Simon Brice
Hidden 23/Aug/14 DWS β
BenNorman 23/Aug/14 Solo O/S

Always good

Alex moore 23/Aug/14 Solo
J.Wells 23/Aug/14 DWS O/S
with lots
Dan 85 23/Aug/14 Solo β
highrepute 23/Aug/14 Solo β
morganator 23/Aug/14 Solo rpt

A cast of thousands and nobody binned it as far as I noticed

with Dan Arkle
brices 23/Aug/14 DWS β
Adam Booth 23/Aug/14 Solo O/S

Retro flash

NDD 23/Aug/14 Solo β
with sam harvie
Albachoss 23/Aug/14 Solo β
Adam Booth 23/Aug/14 Solo O/S
hervenuttall ?/Aug/14 Solo O/S

soft. the move coming around the arete on the conger is harder than any move on Freeborn Man

with calum
theotherpetehill 27/Jul/14 Solo β
with Ross McKerchar
quiffhanger 27/Jul/14 Solo rpt
with Matt
Rupey 12/Jul/14 Solo

First go this year

Coops_13 12/Jul/14 DWS RP

Straight forward after a shunt like a wetter

Sophie Nunn 10/Jul/14 DWS G/U

Long overdue, got it first attempt of the year!

with Ed B, Alex
adam 24 06/Jul/14 Solo β

Exciting route! Very pleased to do this and not get wet!

Smelly Fox 30/Jun/14 DWS β

I'm having the retro flash! Tried 10 years ago but fell off the crux. Didn't get wet this time. Awesome route!

paultaylor 25/Jun/14 Solo
AlexD 21/Jun/14 Solo
with Sue
ian d f 17/Jun/14 TR O/S
with Paul K
sarpedon 16/May/14 Solo rpt
BenL 15/May/14 Solo β
with Sarp
funsized 15/Mar/14 Solo rpt

I'm claiming first send of 2014 whoop!

with Fi
mileshill540 ??/2014 DWS
Sophie Nunn 05/Sep/13 Solo dnf
Alex More ?/Sep/13 Solo
KDhruev 27/Aug/13 Solo RP
kieranrex 25/Aug/13 -

So pleased I plucked up the courage for this one. Had a really good day with the Boosh Crew send train. Jumped off the top in celebration. Dispatchio Soup!

with Boosh Crew
luke384 25/Aug/13 Solo β

Mega climb an a right of passage to the area! As awesome as it looks. Steady all the way with good holds!

with Boosh crew
spidey 25/Aug/13 Solo β
with mark reily, mat lamb, luke clarke, luke owens
Sophie Nunn 24/Aug/13 Solo dnf
AlexD 11/Aug/13 Solo dnf
with Richard
feilx 07/Aug/13 Solo rpt
with Andy L
Kopinski 24/Jul/13 Solo O/S
Oddjob 21/Jul/13 DWS β

Really, really classy.

with Rosie
quiffhanger 21/Jul/13 Solo rpt

Twice, once to try figure out the top of Herman Borg.

jonleighton 21/Jul/13 Solo rpt
Perryman 20/Jul/13 Solo
with Paolita
Luxulyan 20/Jul/13 Solo β
with Tom Murrell
paultaylor 15/Jul/13 Solo β
Hidden 14/Jul/13 Solo
Boy 13/Jul/13 Solo O/S
with Emlyn James, Nathan Lee, Rhys Crabtree, Kim Tompson
nathanlee 13/Jul/13 Solo β

Sketchy rockover at the top, harder than I was expecting!

with DWS Crew
BenNorman 11/Jul/13 Solo β

Little beta from the flanks in a couple places but pretty much onsight, pretty scared near the top. Amazing roue and good to feel like im climbing well again.

Sophie Nunn 06/Jul/13 Solo dnf
Glyn 06/Jul/13 Solo β
jonleighton 06/Jul/13 Solo rpt
jacobjlloyd 21/Jun/13 Solo rpt
Tom Livingstone 21/Jun/13 Solo rpt
Gus 02/Jun/13 Solo
with simon "the horse" wilson
Hidden 02/Jun/13 DWS β
Sophie Nunn 01/Jun/13 Solo dnf
Stroppy 01/Jun/13 Solo β
owb106 01/Jun/13 Solo β

Made a hash of the traverse. Great route.

with Ed Hastrop, Josh Bamsey, Benjamin Corbey, Matt Smith
quiffhanger 01/Jun/13 Solo rpt
quiffhanger 01/Jun/13 Solo rpt
Hidden 16/May/13 Solo O/S
feeko ??/2013 -
Rupey 22/Sep/12 Solo dnf
with alan
Bristoldave 15/Sep/12 Solo β
with LukeW
Tom Livingstone 08/Sep/12 Solo O/S

well psyched, awesome route!

Patrick Hill 07/Sep/12 Solo RP
with Mark Chevassut, olly12344
oliver.ghill91 07/Sep/12 Solo O/S
Sophie Nunn 07/Sep/12 Solo dnf
Sophie Nunn 06/Sep/12 Solo dnf
Jeronimo 02/Sep/12 Solo rpt

Pure grease and a cold grey day. Did the jump from Rio Point with the young Cook brothers, the highlight of the day. Jumping with a wetsuit makes a big difference!

quiffhanger 01/Sep/12 Solo rpt

Twice, after god knows how many ascents I'm finally getting some consistent beta.

with Dan
Sophie Nunn 26/Aug/12 Solo dnf
quiffhanger 19/Aug/12 Solo dnf

I fell in! Good chalkbag, trousers, good shoes :( Luckily I wasn't quite so cocky that I left my expensive sunglasses on. Pinged off the under-cling at the start of final traverse. Totally relaxed, no warning - I was underwater before I knew what had happened.

with Jacob
quiffhanger 19/Aug/12 Solo rpt

A little more cautious this time round :)

with Jacob
jacobjacob 19/Aug/12 Solo rpt

Haha Ross fell in!

Laurence Everitt 11/Aug/12 DWS O/S
BeccaSnowden 26/Jul/12 Solo dnf

2 awesome big falls from the crux. Got to get back on it!

Jake Young 26/Jul/12 Solo dnf

fell below the undercut psyched to give it a proper go

rustaldo 30/Jun/12 Solo RP

No dramas today, cruised it until the last move pulling onto the slab when I nearly blew it! Swell was major! Uber scary for a few moments..

quiffhanger 04/Jun/12 Solo rpt
with Jake
jacobjlloyd 04/Jun/12 Solo rpt
quiffhanger 02/Jun/12 Solo rpt
with Jake
jacobjlloyd 02/Jun/12 Solo rpt
with Ross
mwatson ?/Jun/12 Solo O/S
funsized ?/Jun/12 Solo rpt
quiffhanger 12/May/12 Solo rpt
with Jake
jacobjlloyd 12/May/12 Solo rpt
with Sophie, Ross
jacobjlloyd 31/Mar/12 Solo rpt

Couldn't walk by without romping up it. Done it enough times now that it feels like HVS!

with Ross
quiffhanger 31/Mar/12 Solo RP
with Jake
feilx 28/Jan/12 Solo rpt
jacobjlloyd 28/Jan/12 Solo rpt
with Felix
kateb-oxf 15/Oct/11 Solo β
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Solo dnf
halfdan 02/Oct/11 Solo dnf

Didn't have the bottle to continue past 2/3 of the way up. One day!

with Danny Sutton, Marc Baldwin
quiffhanger 01/Oct/11 Solo rpt

2 times, wobbly on first but solid repeat with improved beta.

Hidden 01/Oct/11 Solo β
rustaldo 01/Oct/11 Solo dnf

what a route! couldnt have tried any harded.. will get it next time. superb.

Jon_Warner 01/Oct/11 Solo dnf

Probably easier when not heavily hung over. Brilliant route. Next time!

tim newton 28/Aug/11 DWS O/S
dswansonlow 25/Aug/11 DWS rpt
with Dan Barbour
Alex More 10/Aug/11 Solo dnf

was able to count to 5 on the way down, good fall...

jonleighton 06/Aug/11 Solo β
JKinsella 06/Aug/11 DWS β

Amazing

Harry Martin 06/Aug/11 Solo RP

What a climb! Screwed it up the first time by ignoring lots of holds. Love a good bath anyway.

with joe kinsella
andi turner 06/Aug/11 Solo

Great. Late in the evening it added some a bit special.

with Eddie, Gus & Simon Wilson
jacobjlloyd 06/Aug/11 Solo rpt
with Joe Kinsella, Jon Leighton, Harry Martin
Hidden 03/Aug/11 Solo β
alaan 01/Aug/11 Solo O/S
Bargate_Champ 30/Jul/11 DWS O/S
La Mont 13/Jul/11 -
feilx 13/Jul/11 Solo rpt
sarpedon 02/Jul/11 Solo rpt
Matt Smith 01/Jul/11 DWS dnf

Got up the slab and fell going for the high left hold under the undercling. Such a cool route and pretty intimidating.

John Tanner 27/Jun/11 Solo β
feilx 26/Jun/11 Solo rpt
feilx 23/Jun/11 Solo rpt

done as a linkup from the jugs on troubled waters

funsized 04/Jun/11 Solo rpt
dswansonlow 04/Jun/11 DWS RP
jacobjlloyd 04/Jun/11 Solo RP

Finally! Missed the os by falling off it a week earlier, hungover in my jeans in the wet. Feels pretty fair in the dry, and the sequence flows so unbelievably naturally!

with amy horton, Dougie, Felix
dswansonlow 03/Jun/11 DWS dnf
feilx 26/May/11 Solo rpt
tom106 25/May/11 Solo rpt
sarpedon 25/May/11 Solo β

A little beta, which I mostly disregarded.

La Mont 21/May/11 -
funsized 18/May/11 Solo β
tom106 18/May/11 Solo RP
with felix jonnyp
feilx 18/May/11 Solo rpt
feilx 09/Apr/11 Solo rpt
harvie ??/2011 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
ellis 28/Aug/10 Solo rpt
morganator 28/Aug/10 Solo O/S
with Tom Bridgeland, Blonde Tom, Andy Benson
Mike Goldthorp 16/Aug/10 Solo O/S

Superb! Lovely pocket holds and a spicy move into the undercut. Top rockover is exciting too (but not hard if you keep your whits). F6c/+

jacobjacob 08/Aug/10 Solo O/S

did it twice. The first time felt very scary but by the end of a day of soloing it felt a whole lot more relaxed.

ThomasB ?/Aug/10 DWS O/S
slav ?/Aug/10 Solo O/S
quiffhanger ?/Aug/10 Solo O/S
Ed Babs 29/Jul/10 DWS O/S
JulesV 25/Jul/10 Solo
sparkass 24/Jul/10 Solo β
Chubbard 24/Jul/10 Solo rpt
with Harvey
RobRock84 12/Jul/10 TR dog
mgeek ?/Jul/10 Solo O/S
with ally swinton, Tony Stone
Ed Booth 29/Jun/10 Solo dnf

Wet today, took the ride.

Ceridwen 27/Jun/10 Solo dnf
al99 26/Jun/10 DWS O/S
feilx 12/Jun/10 Solo rpt
Martin Krasnansky 12/Jun/10 Solo β
gnc760 05/Jun/10 Solo rpt
Hidden 05/Jun/10 DWS β
Sash.C 23/May/10 Solo rpt
jld579 ??/2010 Solo
Jane Weir ??/2010 Solo O/S
brian watson 13/Sep/09 Solo β
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Solo
gnc760 06/Sep/09 Solo RP

Awesome!

Dale Comley ?/Sep/09 Solo β

Awesome!

liamoloughlin 29/Aug/09 Solo O/S

Once committed at the crux the top falls in to place...

Hidden 08/Aug/09 Solo
Hidden 01/Aug/09 Solo rpt
Jamie Goodwin ?/Aug/09 Solo β
Jus 04/Jul/09 Solo rpt
feilx 21/Jun/09 Solo rpt
Hidden 20/Jun/09 Solo
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 20/Jun/09 DWS O/S
Jeronimo 16/Jun/09 Solo O/S
with Rob Canavan
gnc760 03/Jun/09 Solo dnf
hippo99 21/May/09 Solo O/S
with bob, joe
feilx 25/Apr/09 Solo rpt
Dhonny_Jaws 23/Aug/08 Solo dnf
with Daniel Gibson, AJ, Michael Porter
AJ007 23/Aug/08 Solo dnf
dan gibson 23/Aug/08 Solo rpt
Ed Booth 17/Aug/08 Solo O/S
adrianjenner 01/Aug/08 Solo dnf
Hidden 26/Jul/08 DWS β
Sash.C 14/Jun/08 Solo RP

Second go

with The Mob
dmoir 08/Jun/08 Solo O/S
JonBrown ?/Jun/08 Solo dnf
with Felix
feilx 10/May/08 Solo rpt
Hidden 14/Sep/07 Solo rpt
Jus ?/Sep/07 Solo
Ram MkiV 24/Aug/07 Solo O/S
with Dan
Hidden ?/Aug/07 Solo
thomb ?/Aug/07 Solo RP

DWS. Incredible.

btc 19/Jul/07 Solo dnf
with keith daly
Brown 16/Jul/07 Solo O/S
with Alex
dannyboy83 11/Jul/07 Solo G/U
dan gibson 10/Jun/07 Solo O/S
Somerset swede basher 09/Jun/07 Solo O/S
with George, Linus and Kine
Hidden ??/2007 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Solo O/S
chrisbevins ??/2007 Solo RP
Hidden 15/Sep/06 Solo
Hidden 26/Aug/06 Solo
bronsonite 08/Aug/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/06 Solo β
nathanmanc 08/Aug/06 Solo β
phsharpy 08/Aug/06 Solo O/S
with Alex, Paz, Bethan
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Solo O/S
lx ?/Aug/06 Solo O/S

onsight, (fr6c)

whispering nic 26/Jul/06 Solo O/S
Richard Horn 02/Jul/06 Solo β
Hidden ?/Jul/06 Solo
feilx 24/Jun/06 Solo O/S
beanfingers 24/Jun/06 Solo dnf

got half way up when my technique seemingly disappeared resulting in a large splash. next time.

with felix
bfreeman ?/Jun/06 Solo O/S
Jus ?/May/06 Solo rpt
Neil Adams ??/2006 TR dog
feeko ??/2006 -
Pete Scott 20/Aug/05 DWS
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 20/Aug/05 Solo rpt
Pythonist 20/Aug/05 Solo O/S
Mark Stevenson 20/Aug/05 Solo O/S
ingo ?/Aug/05 Solo β
Mark Riley ?/Aug/05 Solo β

DWS

bigie bob ?/Jul/05 Solo O/S
pezzerrr 05/Sep/04 Solo O/S
NuclearNev ?/Aug/03 DWS β

This thing got E4 6b in my guide when I did it. I remember thinking it was easier than that. Glad to see it is E4 6a now (or 6c DWS).

Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Aug/03 Solo O/S
tuftynick ?/Aug/03 Solo O/S
with Aide Jebb
simon kimber ?/Jul/03 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/02 Solo
Hidden 01/Sep/02 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Solo
Hidden ??/2000 Solo
Marti999 ??/2000 Solo
Hidden 25/Jul/99 Solo β
Hidden ??/1999 Solo
The Jazz Butcher ??/1998 Lead O/S
Just Another Dave ??/1997 DWS dnf

Failed twice!

Tim M ??/1995 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/92 Solo O/S
steve taylor ?/Aug/91 Solo
with Joff Cook
steve taylor ?/Aug/90 Solo RP

Yellow-point - soloed it after trying on top-rope!

turnerk ??/1979 2nd RP
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 51
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 53
Style of ascent
Soloed
DWS
Toproped
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Repeated
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set