UKC

Restricted Access

Finding the access can be tricky but once the short climb down to the upper ledge is located the rest is straight forward. Due to in isolated nature the cliff top stakes that are essential for belays and abseils are often in a poor state or miss, it is good practice to check before you start climbing. Also Rockfall has effected some climbs.

Bolting is only really allowed in the main cave and quarry wall with many harder route still having rotting fixed gear in place.  Any route will need cleaning after a nesting season.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction includes all routes west of Frontiersman (including the sea caves). all the way to Cormorant Ledge.  This is an extremely sensitive area with an easily flushed kittiwake colony - please don't go into this area for any reason, especially bolting or climbing. The NT carefuly monitor ths area and have been unhappy to fine visitoring climber, cleaning and installing fix gear during the restricted season. 

12m.

Rockfax Description
Steep and entertaining. Old gear. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Steep and entertaining. Rebolted to half height, old gear after and belay is old tat.

FA. Pete Oxley 03/Feb/1988.

Ticklists

Swanage Sport Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
jakubvronsky 25 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Has not been fully rebolted, can be done till about half height.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Has not been fully rebolted, can be done till about half height.

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Route of Interest
Superfly Guy

Grade: 7a ***
(Coastguard North)

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