Rockfax Description
From sitting at a slot, climb up rightwards to the lip, then traverse it left before pulling around onto the slab. © Rockfax
FA. Mark Evans 24/Jan/2010.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Sparrow Guns | 28 Nov, 2023 |
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βeta: It sounds like there is some confusion about where this starts and what is allowed. I don't know for definite but I do know what I did... Sit start on the big undercut (and then eliminating the rest of the flake on the right that this merges into) is about 7A+/B and by the sounds of it not what the FA did. Starting as a sitter down left matched on a good pocket/slot (feet either with or without the slab out left, makes not much difference) then up via a dinky undercut and some slopey slightly backhand edges to get the pocket out right on the slab with right hand, then back left up rib. Prob 7C this way. Although your body passes close to the big undercut it feels pretty natural to avoid it, in fact my sequence didn't really go near it for hands. | ||
Show beta
βeta: It sounds like there is some confusion about where this starts and what is allowed. I don't know for definite but I do know what I did... Sit start on the big undercut (and then eliminating the rest of the flake on the right that this merges into) is about 7A+/B and by the sounds of it not what the FA did. Starting as a sitter down left matched on a good pocket/slot (feet either with or without the slab out left, makes not much difference) then up via a dinky undercut and some slopey slightly backhand edges to get the pocket out right on the slab with right hand, then back left up rib. Prob 7C this way. Although your body passes close to the big undercut it feels pretty natural to avoid it, in fact my sequence didn't really go near it for hands. |
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Grade: f7C ***
(Bentley Brook)