50m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The dominating central crack-line. Steep, strenuous and intimidating and with some loose rock on pitch two. Start 5m right of Tudor Rose on a boulder pile.
1) 5a, 20m. From the top of the boulders, move out left across a slab to the base of a broken crack-line. Follow the crack-line, past a niche, and move right to a thread belay on a ledge on the slab.
2) 5b, 30m. Climb up left to the fault-line and gain the wall passing a bulge on the left. Follow a steep groove direct, stepping left at its top. Pass a big wedged-in block to gain the exit corner. A couple of large cams are useful on this pitch. © Rockfax

FA. Pat Littlejohn, K.Goodman 05/Aug/1972

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UserDateNotes
feilx 11 Dec, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route, steep sustained and very satisfying. Was a bit loose (don't think it’s seen much traffic recently) think we cleaned it up a bit though. Climbed around the big scary block at the top no worries.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route, steep sustained and very satisfying. Was a bit loose (don't think it’s seen much traffic recently) think we cleaned it up a bit though. Climbed around the big scary block at the top no worries.
geoffgo21 13 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: this has obviously got a lot loser since I did it '88 although care was needed. So much for routes cleaning up with traffic! Not a great route but hard work.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: this has obviously got a lot loser since I did it '88 although care was needed. So much for routes cleaning up with traffic! Not a great route but hard work.
matt perks 26 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I’ve been climbing at Guillemot Ledge today. The block at the top of Oceanid is in a very dangerous state. We tried to trundle it but it is held in at the back by a lip of rock. Only about 1 cm of the block is preventing it from rocking over the edge. We have made it even looser by trying to remove it. It is possible to climb Tudor Rose and Facedancing without too much danger as long as care is taken to keep the ropes running away from the block when climbing past it. The routes that use the first pitch of Oceanid (Warlord etc.) are unaffected. The second pitch of Oceanid is currently a really bad idea. Even though it may be possible to climb round the block, ropes are bound to run past it. The block sticks out very obviously and can be seen from the base of the routes. It’s probably best not to belay under it. Next time I’m down at Swanage I’ll try to get it with a crowbar – unless anyone thinks that’s a really bad idea. There will be some other loose stuff to come down from around it but the corner basically looked sound and the other routes that use that finish should still be fine. I also think Oceanid will be fine but haven’t done it so I’m not certain which holds are crucial. If anyone has any comments reply to my post on ukclimbing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I’ve been climbing at Guillemot Ledge today. The block at the top of Oceanid is in a very dangerous state. We tried to trundle it but it is held in at the back by a lip of rock. Only about 1 cm of the block is preventing it from rocking over the edge. We have made it even looser by trying to remove it. It is possible to climb Tudor Rose and Facedancing without too much danger as long as care is taken to keep the ropes running away from the block when climbing past it. The routes that use the first pitch of Oceanid (Warlord etc.) are unaffected. The second pitch of Oceanid is currently a really bad idea. Even though it may be possible to climb round the block, ropes are bound to run past it. The block sticks out very obviously and can be seen from the base of the routes. It’s probably best not to belay under it. Next time I’m down at Swanage I’ll try to get it with a crowbar – unless anyone thinks that’s a really bad idea. There will be some other loose stuff to come down from around it but the corner basically looked sound and the other routes that use that finish should still be fine. I also think Oceanid will be fine but haven’t done it so I’m not certain which holds are crucial. If anyone has any comments reply to my post on ukclimbing
Paz 27 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Yeah, I would say the finish is worrying but probably fine. Just don't belay in the line of fire.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yeah, I would say the finish is worrying but probably fine. Just don't belay in the line of fire.
Mark Stevenson 20 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: WARNING LOOSE ROCK. My partner manage to pull off one of the 'funny blocks' (60cm cube )on the second pitch taking a large fall but luckily escaping with bruises. I knocked off a further 50kg block when retrieving the gear on abseil but the route has further LOOSE ROCK. There is a possible further, larger loose block (500kg+). Route needs to be checked on abseil prior to any more ascents.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: WARNING LOOSE ROCK. My partner manage to pull off one of the 'funny blocks' (60cm cube )on the second pitch taking a large fall but luckily escaping with bruises. I knocked off a further 50kg block when retrieving the gear on abseil but the route has further LOOSE ROCK. There is a possible further, larger loose block (500kg+). Route needs to be checked on abseil prior to any more ascents.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
alvaroBV 14 Sep 2nd Climbed with Giuseppe. Had to take some rests to clean gear
Climbed with Giuseppe. Had to take some rests to clean gear
Owen Davies 7 Sep AltLd O/S awkward moves on P2 I thought, big cams useful.
with big drew
awkward moves on P2 I thought, big cams useful.
with big drew
Hidden 7 Sep Lead O/S
Simon Allcock 23 Aug AltLd O/S I led p1. Steep but straightforward. P2 a fabulous line, hard but always something there.
with Wilki
I led p1. Steep but straightforward. P2 a fabulous line, hard but always something there.
with Wilki
Rgledable 3 Aug AltLd O/S P1. Bit sandy but nice climbing.
P1. Bit sandy but nice climbing.
gem_stone12 15 Jul 2nd O/S Very dusty and pretty loose in places.
Very dusty and pretty loose in places.
eel 15 Jul Lead dog
Matt77 8 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S In a oner. Brilliant. One of my fave E2s at Swanage.
with Tom Riddelsdell
In a oner. Brilliant. One of my fave E2s at Swanage.
with Tom Riddelsdell
Hidden 25 Aug, 2018 2nd β
HannahFrancis 22 Aug, 2018 2nd
with DAJ
with DAJ
richfitz 15 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S P1
P1
scott titt 29 Nov, 2017 -
brian watson 29 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S In one pitch, great route, classic Swanage, steep, juggy, good gear generally on the large size. Get on it :-)
In one pitch, great route, classic Swanage, steep, juggy, good gear generally on the large size. Get on it :-)
JendeHoxar 15 Oct, 2017 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 15 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
Richard Kendrick 14 Oct, 2017 2nd O/S
with Misha
with Misha
Misha 14 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S A bit sandy, a bit loose, a bit hot and a bit good. In one pitch.
A bit sandy, a bit loose, a bit hot and a bit good. In one pitch.
marcduhig 8 Oct, 2017 2nd O/S
with pep
with pep
manwithacam 24 Feb, 2017 Lead In one pitch, long route, enjoyed it but bit unconsolidated...
with Mark Grist
In one pitch, long route, enjoyed it but bit unconsolidated...
with Mark Grist
The Grist 24 Feb, 2017 2nd O/S Steep and quite intimidating......even to second!
with Dan Metcalfe
Steep and quite intimidating......even to second!
with Dan Metcalfe
NuclearNev ??, 2017 -
Hidden 1 Sep, 2016 AltLd rpt
AlexD 1 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S led p2. looser and more terrifying than expected! found it hard to gear, big cams might help.
led p2. looser and more terrifying than expected! found it hard to gear, big cams might help.
Jack Geldard ?Sep, 2016 AltLd
La Mont 27 Feb, 2016 2nd lead 1st pitch, Second on 2nd pitch
with Ellis
lead 1st pitch, Second on 2nd pitch
with Ellis
eel ??, 2016 2nd O/S
with Caff, Jack
with Caff, Jack
hamer89 ?Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
duncan 28 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Dani Wolf
with Dani Wolf
julesmckim 31 Oct, 2014 AltLd Sustained second pitch. How is that blade of rock still there? Blazing sunshine on the last day of October!
Sustained second pitch. How is that blade of rock still there? Blazing sunshine on the last day of October!
steveb2006 9 Sep, 2014 Lead Good to do again after 25 years - led top pitch this time
with David Andrew
Good to do again after 25 years - led top pitch this time
with David Andrew
Hidden 21 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 1 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Led 2nd pitch, nice climbing, a tad dusty and fragile, big block still there but avoidable
Led 2nd pitch, nice climbing, a tad dusty and fragile, big block still there but avoidable
Luxulyan 1 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
jacobjlloyd 21 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S In one. Dusty, from lack of traffic i think, but a good pitch. Jenni had a good go at breaking off that loose bock at the top but its still firm. Looks solid enough for the minute, but take care.
with Jenni
In one. Dusty, from lack of traffic i think, but a good pitch. Jenni had a good go at breaking off that loose bock at the top but its still firm. Looks solid enough for the minute, but take care.
with Jenni
Hidden 21 Jan, 2012 2nd β
WB 26 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S brilliant route. well worth 3 stars. even the loose blocks arent that bad. easy for e2
with GuyM
brilliant route. well worth 3 stars. even the loose blocks arent that bad. easy for e2
with GuyM
GuyM ?Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
Marti999 2 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Martin Cooper 28 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S Led top pitch Excellent
with Andrew
Led top pitch Excellent
with Andrew
KRB 16 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S Did this in one pitch belayed by Ollie (10). Not as good an experience as I was hoping for - the climbing was alright, the protection was poor (I had no Friends)and the rock was crap - extremely dusty all the way up. Otherwise a lovely hot evening in a great position.
with Oliver Bridges
Did this in one pitch belayed by Ollie (10). Not as good an experience as I was hoping for - the climbing was alright, the protection was poor (I had no Friends)and the rock was crap - extremely dusty all the way up. Otherwise a lovely hot evening in a great position.
with Oliver Bridges
clipskipper 2 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S Bottom of the first pitch pretty unprotected great thread belay. Second pitch steady, apart from the hanging block. Now on less than 10mm but still wouldn't fall. Low in the grade (apart from the block ;-))
with Ed Babington
Bottom of the first pitch pretty unprotected great thread belay. Second pitch steady, apart from the hanging block. Now on less than 10mm but still wouldn't fall. Low in the grade (apart from the block ;-))
with Ed Babington
Ed Babs 2 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S P2 - good thuggy fun with an incredibly precarious looking jammed block at the top of the groove - step left to avoid it
P2 - good thuggy fun with an incredibly precarious looking jammed block at the top of the groove - step left to avoid it
Hidden 23 Feb, 2008 AltLd O/S
haydng ??, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Will
with Will
feilx 10 Dec, 2006 Lead O/S
with msoldn
with msoldn
dan gibson 4 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
with jamie evans
with jamie evans
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Ian Jones ?Sep, 2005 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
Mark Stevenson 18 Aug, 2002 AltLd dnf Massive rock fall when Nick was leading 2nd pitch. We had a minor epic retreating, climbing out via Mistaken Identity and then abseiling for the gear in the dark.
with Nick Fisher
Massive rock fall when Nick was leading 2nd pitch. We had a minor epic retreating, climbing out via Mistaken Identity and then abseiling for the gear in the dark.
with Nick Fisher
ellis ?Sep, 2000 AltLd O/S
with Pete Collins
with Pete Collins
Tim M ??, 2000 -
Hidden 1 Aug, 1999 AltLd O/S
Ally Smith ??, 1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Feb, 1995 AltLd O/S
keefe ??, 1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
Robmwatt ??, 1994 -
Hidden 14 Aug, 1993 Lead O/S
keefe ??, 1990 -
steve taylor ?Aug, 1989 Lead O/S Good, steep climbing. Proper E2.
with Rich Brookes
Good, steep climbing. Proper E2.
with Rich Brookes
steve taylor ?Aug, 1989 Lead O/S
with steve kerr
with steve kerr
MikePycroft 11 Feb, 1989 AltLd
steveb2006 11 Feb, 1989 AltLd Mike leads crux second pitch. Fail on Dead Red afterwards
Mike leads crux second pitch. Fail on Dead Red afterwards
Dave Musgrove 28 Feb, 1987 AltLd O/S
with Richard Crewe
with Richard Crewe
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
DDDD ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Gary Crocker
with Gary Crocker
pete johnson 2 Nov, 1986 AltLd O/S
with Andy Tallant
with Andy Tallant
Hidden ?Aug, 1986 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 4 Jan, 1980 AltLd dog I fell at top of groove on pitch 2 when the block I was hauling on swivelled outwards.
with Steve Bartlett
I fell at top of groove on pitch 2 when the block I was hauling on swivelled outwards.
with Steve Bartlett
crusherbartlett 4 Jan, 1980 Lead Uh oh, Nigel Coe's note sounds all too familiar. I was on the other end of the same rope. I remember laybacking a car-sized flake; I mantled onto its top and the whole thing was rocking gently back into place. In all the excitement (wild lead, wild cliff, hungover, poor belay on top, etc, clean forgot to warn my poor second ... Bad, bad. Nigel went spinning into space, dwarfed by the monster flake he was still laybacking. So, my, umm, belated apologies Nigel!
Uh oh, Nigel Coe's note sounds all too familiar. I was on the other end of the same rope. I remember laybacking a car-sized flake; I mantled onto its top and the whole thing was rocking gently back into place. In all the excitement (wild lead, wild cliff, hungover, poor belay on top, etc, clean forgot to warn my poor second ... Bad, bad. Nigel went spinning into space, dwarfed by the monster flake he was still laybacking. So, my, umm, belated apologies Nigel!
turnerk ?Aug, 1978 Lead O/S
Falko ??, 1977 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lancashire
with Howard Lancashire
Falko 2 Jan, 1975 AltLd O/S Third ascent (Richard Crewe present to confirm).
with Howard Lancashire
Third ascent (Richard Crewe present to confirm).
with Howard Lancashire
Hidden ??, 1973 -
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 19
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Not Set