50m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The dominating central crack-line. Steep, strenuous and intimidating and with some loose rock on pitch two. Start 5m right of Tudor Rose on a boulder pile.
1) 5a, 20m. From the top of the boulders, move out left across a slab to the base of a broken crack-line. Follow the crack-line, past a niche, and move right to a thread belay on a ledge on the slab.
2) 5b, 30m. Climb up left to the fault-line and gain the wall passing a bulge on the left. Follow a steep groove direct, stepping left at its top. Pass a big wedged-in block to gain the exit corner. A couple of large cams are useful on this pitch. © Rockfax

FA. Pat Littlejohn, K.Goodman 05/Aug/1972

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Hidden 29/Nov/17 -
brian watson 29/Nov/17 Lead O/S

In one pitch, great route, classic Swanage, steep, juggy, good gear generally on the large size. Get on it :-)

JendeHoxar 15/Oct/17 2nd O/S
with Flavio
Flavio 15/Oct/17 Lead O/S
Richard Kendrick 14/Oct/17 2nd O/S
with Misha
Misha 14/Oct/17 Lead O/S

A bit sandy, a bit loose, a bit hot and a bit good. In one pitch.

marcduhig 08/Oct/17 2nd O/S
with pep
manwithacam 24/Feb/17 Lead

In one pitch, long route, enjoyed it but bit unconsolidated...

with Mark Grist
The Grist 24/Feb/17 2nd O/S

Steep and quite intimidating......even to second!

with Dan Metcalfe
NuclearNev ??/2017 -
Hidden 01/Sep/16 AltLd rpt
AlexD 01/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

led p2. looser and more terrifying than expected! found it hard to gear, big cams might help.

with Sue
Jack Geldard ?/Sep/16 AltLd
La Mont 27/Feb/16 2nd

lead 1st pitch, Second on 2nd pitch

with Ellis
eel ??/2016 2nd O/S
with Caff, Jack
duncan 28/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
with Dani Wolf
julesmckim 31/Oct/14 AltLd

Sustained second pitch. How is that blade of rock still there? Blazing sunshine on the last day of October!

Hidden 09/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 21/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 01/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch, nice climbing, a tad dusty and fragile, big block still there but avoidable

with Richard
Luxulyan 01/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Sophie
jacobjlloyd 21/Jan/12 Lead O/S

In one. Dusty, from lack of traffic i think, but a good pitch. Jenni had a good go at breaking off that loose bock at the top but its still firm. Looks solid enough for the minute, but take care.

with Jenni
Hidden 21/Jan/12 2nd β
WB 26/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

brilliant route. well worth 3 stars. even the loose blocks arent that bad. easy for e2

with Guy
GuyM ?/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Marti999 02/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Martin Cooper 28/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Led top pitch Excellent

with Andrew
KRB 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Did this in one pitch belayed by Ollie (10). Not as good an experience as I was hoping for - the climbing was alright, the protection was poor (I had no Friends)and the rock was crap - extremely dusty all the way up. Otherwise a lovely hot evening in a great position.

with Oliver Bridges
clipskipper 02/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Bottom of the first pitch pretty unprotected great thread belay. Second pitch steady, apart from the hanging block. Now on less than 10mm but still wouldn't fall. Low in the grade (apart from the block ;-))

with Ed Babington
Ed Babs 02/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

P2 - good thuggy fun with an incredibly precarious looking jammed block at the top of the groove - step left to avoid it

Hidden 23/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
haydng ??/2007 AltLd O/S
with Will
feilx 10/Dec/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson 04/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with jamie evans
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian Jones ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
Mark Stevenson 18/Aug/02 AltLd dnf

Massive rock fall when Nick was leading 2nd pitch. We had a minor epic retreating, climbing out via Mistaken Identity and then abseiling for the gear in the dark.

with Nick Fisher
ellis ?/Sep/00 AltLd O/S
with Pete Collins
Tim M ??/2000 -
Hidden 01/Aug/99 AltLd O/S
Ally Smith ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Feb/95 AltLd O/S
keefe ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
Robmwatt ??/1994 -
Hidden 14/Aug/93 Lead O/S
keefe ??/1990 -
steve taylor ?/Aug/89 Lead O/S

Good, steep climbing. Proper E2.

with Rich Brookes
steve taylor ?/Aug/89 Lead O/S
with steve kerr
Hidden 11/Feb/89 AltLd
Hidden 11/Feb/89 AltLd
Dave Musgrove 28/Feb/87 AltLd O/S
with Richard Crewe
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
DDDD ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Gary Crocker
clark alston ?/Aug/86 Lead O/S

Some suspect blocks but great climbing.

with Alan Pow
Nigel Coe 04/Jan/80 AltLd dog

I fell at top of groove on pitch 2 when the block I was hauling on swivelled outwards.

with Steve Bartlett
crusherbartlett 04/Jan/80 Lead

Uh oh, Nigel Coe's note sounds all too familiar. I was on the other end of the same rope. I remember laybacking a car-sized flake; I mantled onto its top and the whole thing was rocking gently back into place. In all the excitement (wild lead, wild cliff, hungover, poor belay on top, etc, clean forgot to warn my poor second ... Bad, bad. Nigel went spinning into space, dwarfed by the monster flake he was still laybacking. So, my, umm, belated apologies Nigel!

turnerk ?/Aug/78 Lead O/S
Falko ??/1977 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lancashire
Falko 02/Jan/75 AltLd O/S

Third ascent (Richard Crewe present to confirm).

with Howard Lancashire
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 17
High 5c
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High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set