A stupendous big pitch with sustained climbing in magnificent situations following the impressive smooth groove. The route had been neglected for years but a thorough clean-up and the addition of four bolts in 2017 should give it fresh interest. The groove can feel greasy and is best avoided in damp conditions. Take a big rack and double up on medium and large cams and small wires.
Scramble up the soil ramp to the left of the large elder tree. Step left onto a broken rib and climb this for 3m until you can move right 2m to a ledge. Move up leftwards to the first large hole and visit two more holes in quick succession, exiting left and heading for a higher hole and in situ thread runner. Traverse right to an old peg, then move up and left to enter the groove proper (bolt). Climb the groove mainly on its right side past two bolts to an in situ thread and a good rest above. Fill a thin vertical crack with small wires before heading past the final bolt. The final section of groove is protected by a cam #0.25 and #3.5. Good hawthorn belays 8m back.
Bruce Woodley & Kelvin Phillips Aug/1983