Rockfax Description
Essentially a grade II scramble. Start a little way up the gully and climb ledges and ramp-lines up in a variety of short pitches until you are forced left onto the crest. One short move out of a groove leads onto easier ground then up to a stubborn V-groove off a good ledge, which provides the crux. Above, the scrambling eases. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
III, 4 grade as per the 2011 Ground Up North Wales Winter Climbing Guide

Ticklists: Snowdonia Easy Winter Climbs.

Gibbs3799 06/Jul -
LJJ77 04/Mar 2nd

Snow was soft and slushy shame it wasn't in good nick

with Andy, Sam
Hidden 05/Feb Lead
chrisbrown2050 04/Feb Lead O/S

Cold but still day. Verglas and a little unconsolidated snow made the rock extremely slippery. We had a look at Parsons' nose approach but saw sense and did the gully instead. Felt sketchy so used 5 40-50m pitches until the gradient eased. Lots of runouts with some intimidating unprotected moves, rope drag problematic, and the pitching made progress slow, so need to practice moving together. A great and challenging day out.

with Nick Edwards CCC
nclarey 04/Feb 2nd O/S
LovelyMrTom 04/Feb AltLd O/S

First Winter(ish) route. Unconsolidated snow and verglas made progress very slow. Luckily we were reaching the easier section as it got dark. Finished and descended down the tourist path by headtorch.

Simon Cahill 15/Jun/16 -

Teaching day with Luke, Luke's first multi pitch lead (all pitches). High in the grade.

with Luke
wi11 16/Feb/16 Solo O/S
Hidden 15/Feb/16 AltLd dnf
JessWilliams 17/Jan/16 AltLd
with Lily Kehoe, Dad
lilyhaf42 17/Jan/16 AltLd
glaramara 16/Jan/16 -

Bit busy, turf not frozen, issues with rope drag. Atmospheric top out made up for it.

with Mau mau, james
static266 16/Jan/16 Lead O/S

Pitched from the start to the end of the difficulties. Soft snow was hard going on a few of the rock steps. Great day!

maumau 16/Jan/16 2nd
JRJones ??/2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Steveb27 05/Sep/15 Solo
robgixer 17/Jan/15 Lead
Hidden 28/Dec/14 AltLd
michaelmurray 13/Dec/14 2nd

Great early winter day out! Started up the West gully then climbed mostly just to the right of the crest. A couple of pitches seemed quite tough so not sure we found the easiest line. Good fun though!

with James
wolf.leeb 13/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

with Joe
ben.richards 25/Jul/14 Solo
Half Pint Lizz 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Moved together

with Helen King
Hidden 03/Feb/14 Lead O/S
nodwas 12/Jan/14 AltLd
with suds_01
suds_01 12/Jan/14 AltLd
with Katie smith, Chris sawdon
Jonny Nick 04/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

No axes used but bloody iffy climbing under snow and gopping wet rock. Found tricky for the grade.

with eleytim
Hidden 04/Jan/14 AltLd β
JamesM 12/Oct/13 Solo O/S

Very windy & greasy, glad I had some nuts and sling to place above me and move up..

hairy51 ?/Jun/13 -
10029759 ?/Jun/13 -
bowls 03/Apr/13 AltLd

Some hard sections, esp the crux where unlike in summer we went right rather than left - not the best belay in the world!

Hidden 30/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Katherine Ross 02/Feb/13 2nd O/S

Quite icy in places so crampons required, but not axes. Great situation!

james chesmer 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Neil D 01/Dec/12 Lead O/S

Led all with Gemma and Harriet. Not really winter, done without crampons on and only occasional axes. Good snow once the climbing was over up to summit of Snowdon.

Hidden 02/Feb/12 2nd β
Hidden 28/Jan/12 Solo
Hidden 28/Jan/12 Solo
Hidden ??/2012 -
Scramblemad ??/2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Dec/11 AltLd
Andy_B39 10/Dec/11 Solo O/S

Simul-soloed. Suprisingly good winter condition- turf well frozen and snow was nice and consolidated for most of the route.

with Sam Tolhurst, James Davidson
Ashley Hold ?/Dec/10 Solo
Hidden ?/Dec/10 Solo
Glyn 28/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

snow was unconsolidated and turf was frozen. Defiantly more winter than summer!

with Lawrence
MontyH 03/Jul/10 -
with Pete Frost and Paul Milton
MikeLell 01/Mar/10 Solo O/S

Great route with some interesting mixed moves. Hard steep middle section which took a while to figure out after trying two other possible lines and wussing out.

masa-alpin 20/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Climbed on 10 to 20cm of fresh snow and some verglas. After West gully (P1: lead by Luke), climbed the arete directly; I lead P2(20m), P3(20m), P5(40m), while Luke lead P4(10m) and P6(45m), before scrambling up. P1 (tech-grade 3, according to the definitive guidebook) was definitely easier than any of P2, P3, P5, where I used all sorts of torquing including tin-opner moves, move after move. Overall IV 5? Possibly we should have taken more right of the arete, as the guidebook suggests, to get the described grade? It was a good fun, though!

with P Luke
lucasp 20/Feb/10 Lead O/S

Found this pretty hard for the grade, more like a IV but went pretty direct up the centre. Think we should have been more on the right of the arete.

tom_holdsworth 19/Feb/10 2nd
with Mike Kennedy
rob k 06/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with H Griffin
Hidden ?/Feb/10 Solo
rwm7131 23/Jan/10 AltLd
with JamesA
Hidden 23/Jan/10 -
TerryB 19/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Mark F
Piaras Kerry ?/Mar/09 Lead
kenneM ?/Feb/09 Lead

Climbed with Moony the same weekend that I climbed Ice Gully on Black Ladders (dates are approx.)

with Moony
mickd ??/2009 -
andy tetsill 30/Dec/08 Solo
Mike Parker 06/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
with James Ayre
The Bad Cough 02/Dec/08 Solo O/S
jon22 02/Dec/08 Solo
Hidden ?/Nov/08 2nd rpt
Nicholas Livesey 23/Aug/08 Lead
with Jim Hobson
Mat J ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Jonah
Big Lee 05/Mar/06 AltLd O/S

Awesome winter route. Felt like a solid III. Gained the Arete via the Western Gully. Got stuck under the boulder at the top and had to remove my pack to get through. Didn't use my axes much. Good protection all the way. Started late and didn't arrive back at the CIC hut until 10.30pm.

with Conrad Bower
Hidden ?/Mar/06 AltLd O/S
steven 16/Sep/05 Solo
adi bryant ?/Feb/05 Solo
Sean Kelly ?/Feb/95 Solo

Climbed midweek when it was quiet and perfect snow conditions. Needed care at the short corner in double boots! Climbed Direct start with Bob Anderson & Martin Mandel in the 80's. Mostly powder & verglas!

michaelb1 ?/Feb/91 Lead
with B & J Marshall
Nick Biven 21/Mar/87 Solo
with Keith Fleming
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High D
Mid D
Low D
High M
Mid M
Low M
High XS
Mid XS
Low XS
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set