200m.

Rockfax Description
Essentially a grade II scramble. Start a little way up the gully and climb ledges and ramp-lines up in a variety of short pitches until you are forced left onto the crest. One short move out of a groove leads onto easier ground then up to a stubborn V-groove off a good ledge, which provides the crux. Above, the scrambling eases. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
III, 4 grade as per the 2011 Ground Up North Wales Winter Climbing Guide

Ticklists

Snowdonia Easy Winter Climbs

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Liam_T 31 Aug Solo O/S Short roped Sheilla followed by a wild camp in the Cwm.
with Sheilla
Short roped Sheilla followed by a wild camp in the Cwm.
with Sheilla
charlesisbozo 3 Aug Solo
phayle 2 Jul AltLd
Felix Ottey 22 Jun Solo O/S Down climbed this after Gambit climb. One short ab past a tricky section.
Down climbed this after Gambit climb. One short ab past a tricky section.
Hidden 8 Jun Lead O/S
themattyshep 19 Apr Solo O/S
with Seb D
with Seb D
Manc88 30 Mar AltLd O/S Moving together after Parson's nose. Felt harder than the nose in places, especially in B3s. Some firmly traditional moves required but super fun!
with LG-Mark
Moving together after Parson's nose. Felt harder than the nose in places, especially in B3s. Some firmly traditional moves required but super fun!
with LG-Mark
LG-Mark 30 Mar AltLd
with Manc88
with Manc88
neil.loydon 20 Jan AltLd
with TobyA
with TobyA
TobyA 20 Jan AltLd β About 75% wintery. We climbed in crampons and tools but another team opted not to use crampons but did use axes. Turf surprisingly well frozen in many places, snow firm up high but drippy lower.
About 75% wintery. We climbed in crampons and tools but another team opted not to use crampons but did use axes. Turf surprisingly well frozen in many places, snow firm up high but drippy lower.
Hidden 19 Nov, 2018 Lead O/S
Adam Coles 14 Aug, 2018 Solo O/S
Tom Fullen 30 Jun, 2018 Lead
Geoff Pettitt 30 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
BMaybee 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 9 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 Apr, 2018 Lead rpt
Hidden 4 Feb, 2018 -
chris cockbain 16 Dec, 2017 Lead O/S
yossarian714 16 Dec, 2017 2nd β Wet snow and wet rock characterised the first pitch, but soon a more wintery mix of verglas, rime and thick snow characterised the pitches above
with Alex Shipp
Wet snow and wet rock characterised the first pitch, but soon a more wintery mix of verglas, rime and thick snow characterised the pitches above
with Alex Shipp
Lewis Read 16 Dec, 2017 2nd
BC 12 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S Lead p2 & P4. Took a different line as for P4 on some scary dry tool vert and off vert 15 metre wall, which was also also good fun. First proper winter route!
Lead p2 & P4. Took a different line as for P4 on some scary dry tool vert and off vert 15 metre wall, which was also also good fun. First proper winter route!
JackM92 12 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S First mixed route of the season. Fun corner on P4, poor feet but bomber hooks. Very soggy walk off.
with BC
First mixed route of the season. Fun corner on P4, poor feet but bomber hooks. Very soggy walk off.
with BC
Mark Reeves 11 Dec, 2017 Solo rpt Nice route to get a winter mountaineering day in.
Nice route to get a winter mountaineering day in.
Gibbs3799 6 Jul, 2017 -
LJJ77 4 Mar, 2017 2nd Snow was soft and slushy shame it wasn't in good nick
with Andy, Sam
Snow was soft and slushy shame it wasn't in good nick
with Andy, Sam
Hidden 5 Feb, 2017 Lead
peakschris 4 Feb, 2017 Lead O/S Cold but still day. Verglas and a little unconsolidated snow made the rock extremely slippery. We had a look at Parsons' nose approach but saw sense and did the gully instead. Felt sketchy so used 5 40-50m pitches until the gradient eased. Lots of runouts with some intimidating unprotected moves, rope drag problematic, and the pitching made progress slow, so need to practice moving together. A great and challenging day out.
with Nick Clarey CCC
Cold but still day. Verglas and a little unconsolidated snow made the rock extremely slippery. We had a look at Parsons' nose approach but saw sense and did the gully instead. Felt sketchy so used 5 40-50m pitches until the gradient eased. Lots of runouts with some intimidating unprotected moves, rope drag problematic, and the pitching made progress slow, so need to practice moving together. A great and challenging day out.
with Nick Clarey CCC
nclarey 4 Feb, 2017 2nd O/S
LovelyMrTom 4 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S First Winter(ish) route. Unconsolidated snow and verglas made progress very slow. Luckily we were reaching the easier section as it got dark. Finished and descended down the tourist path by headtorch.
with Ejminee
First Winter(ish) route. Unconsolidated snow and verglas made progress very slow. Luckily we were reaching the easier section as it got dark. Finished and descended down the tourist path by headtorch.
with Ejminee
Simon Cahill 15 Jun, 2016 - Teaching day with Luke, Luke's first multi pitch lead (all pitches). High in the grade.
with LJJ77
Teaching day with Luke, Luke's first multi pitch lead (all pitches). High in the grade.
with LJJ77
wi11 16 Feb, 2016 Solo O/S
Hidden 15 Feb, 2016 AltLd dnf
JessWilliams 17 Jan, 2016 AltLd
with Haf42, Dad
with Haf42, Dad
Haf42 17 Jan, 2016 AltLd
glaramara 16 Jan, 2016 - Bit busy, turf not frozen, issues with rope drag. Atmospheric top out made up for it.
with Mau mau, james
Bit busy, turf not frozen, issues with rope drag. Atmospheric top out made up for it.
with Mau mau, james
static266 16 Jan, 2016 Lead O/S Pitched from the start to the end of the difficulties. Soft snow was hard going on a few of the rock steps. Great day!
Pitched from the start to the end of the difficulties. Soft snow was hard going on a few of the rock steps. Great day!
maumau 16 Jan, 2016 2nd
Ian84 ??, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2016 -
JRJones ??, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Oct, 2015 2nd O/S
Steveb27 5 Sep, 2015 Solo
robgixer 17 Jan, 2015 Lead
Hidden 28 Dec, 2014 AltLd
michaelmurray 13 Dec, 2014 2nd Great early winter day out! Started up the West gully then climbed mostly just to the right of the crest. A couple of pitches seemed quite tough so not sure we found the easiest line. Good fun though!
with jaamez
Great early winter day out! Started up the West gully then climbed mostly just to the right of the crest. A couple of pitches seemed quite tough so not sure we found the easiest line. Good fun though!
with jaamez
wolf.leeb 13 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Joe
with Joe
ben.richards 25 Jul, 2014 Solo
Half Pint Lizz 22 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Moved together
with Helen King
Moved together
with Helen King
Hidden 3 Feb, 2014 Lead O/S
nodwas 12 Jan, 2014 AltLd
with suds_01
with suds_01
suds_01 12 Jan, 2014 AltLd
with Katie smith, nodwas
with Katie smith, nodwas
Jonny Nick 4 Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S No axes used but bloody iffy climbing under snow and gopping wet rock. Found tricky for the grade.
No axes used but bloody iffy climbing under snow and gopping wet rock. Found tricky for the grade.
Hidden 4 Jan, 2014 AltLd β
JamesM 12 Oct, 2013 Solo O/S Very windy & greasy, glad I had some nuts and sling to place above me and move up..
Very windy & greasy, glad I had some nuts and sling to place above me and move up..
hairy51 ?Jun, 2013 -
Joe Andrews ?Jun, 2013 -
with hairy51
with hairy51
bowls 3 Apr, 2013 AltLd Some hard sections, esp the crux where unlike in summer we went right rather than left - not the best belay in the world!
Some hard sections, esp the crux where unlike in summer we went right rather than left - not the best belay in the world!
Hidden 30 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S
Katherine Ross 2 Feb, 2013 2nd O/S Quite icy in places so crampons required, but not axes. Great situation!
Quite icy in places so crampons required, but not axes. Great situation!
james chesmer 2 Feb, 2013 Lead O/S
Neil D 1 Dec, 2012 Lead O/S Led all with Gemma and Harriet. Not really winter, done without crampons on and only occasional axes. Good snow once the climbing was over up to summit of Snowdon.
Led all with Gemma and Harriet. Not really winter, done without crampons on and only occasional axes. Good snow once the climbing was over up to summit of Snowdon.
Hidden 2 Feb, 2012 2nd β
Hidden 28 Jan, 2012 Solo
Hidden 28 Jan, 2012 Solo
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Scramblemad ??, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Dec, 2011 AltLd
Andy_B39 10 Dec, 2011 Solo O/S Simul-soloed. Suprisingly good winter condition- turf well frozen and snow was nice and consolidated for most of the route.
with Sam Tolhurst, James Davidson
Simul-soloed. Suprisingly good winter condition- turf well frozen and snow was nice and consolidated for most of the route.
with Sam Tolhurst, James Davidson
Ashley Hold ?Dec, 2010 Solo
with torquil
with torquil
Hidden ?Dec, 2010 Solo
Glyn 28 Nov, 2010 AltLd O/S snow was unconsolidated and turf was frozen. Defiantly more winter than summer!
with Lawrence
snow was unconsolidated and turf was frozen. Defiantly more winter than summer!
with Lawrence
MontyH 3 Jul, 2010 -
with Pete Frost and Paul Milton
with Pete Frost and Paul Milton
MikeLell 1 Mar, 2010 Solo O/S Great route with some interesting mixed moves. Hard steep middle section which took a while to figure out after trying two other possible lines and wussing out.
Great route with some interesting mixed moves. Hard steep middle section which took a while to figure out after trying two other possible lines and wussing out.
masa-alpin 20 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S Climbed on 10 to 20cm of fresh snow and some verglas. After West gully (P1: lead by Luke), climbed the arete directly; I lead P2(20m), P3(20m), P5(40m), while Luke lead P4(10m) and P6(45m), before scrambling up. P1 (tech-grade 3, according to the definitive guidebook) was definitely easier than any of P2, P3, P5, where I used all sorts of torquing including tin-opner moves, move after move. Overall IV 5? Possibly we should have taken more right of the arete, as the guidebook suggests, to get the described grade? It was a good fun, though!
with lucasp
Climbed on 10 to 20cm of fresh snow and some verglas. After West gully (P1: lead by Luke), climbed the arete directly; I lead P2(20m), P3(20m), P5(40m), while Luke lead P4(10m) and P6(45m), before scrambling up. P1 (tech-grade 3, according to the definitive guidebook) was definitely easier than any of P2, P3, P5, where I used all sorts of torquing including tin-opner moves, move after move. Overall IV 5? Possibly we should have taken more right of the arete, as the guidebook suggests, to get the described grade? It was a good fun, though!
with lucasp
lucasp 20 Feb, 2010 Lead O/S Found this pretty hard for the grade, more like a IV but went pretty direct up the centre. Think we should have been more on the right of the arete.
Found this pretty hard for the grade, more like a IV but went pretty direct up the centre. Think we should have been more on the right of the arete.
tom_holdsworth 19 Feb, 2010 2nd
with Mike Kennedy
with Mike Kennedy
rob k 6 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S
with H Griffin
with H Griffin
Hidden ?Feb, 2010 Solo
rwm7131 23 Jan, 2010 AltLd
with JamesA
with JamesA
Hidden 23 Jan, 2010 -
TerryB 19 Apr, 2009 2nd O/S
with Mark F
with Mark F
Piaras Kerry ?Mar, 2009 Lead
Mark Stevenson 8 Feb, 2009 Solo
kenneM ?Feb, 2009 Lead Climbed with Moony the same weekend that I climbed Ice Gully on Black Ladders (dates are approx.)
with Moony
Climbed with Moony the same weekend that I climbed Ice Gully on Black Ladders (dates are approx.)
with Moony
mickd ??, 2009 -
andy tetsill 30 Dec, 2008 Solo
Mike Parker 6 Dec, 2008 AltLd O/S
with James Ayre
with James Ayre
The Bad Cough 2 Dec, 2008 Solo O/S
John sealey 2 Dec, 2008 Solo
Hidden ?Nov, 2008 2nd rpt
Nicholas Livesey 23 Aug, 2008 Lead
with Jim Hobson
with Jim Hobson
Mat J ?Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
with Jonah
with Jonah
Big Lee 5 Mar, 2006 AltLd O/S Awesome winter route. Felt like a solid III. Gained the Arete via the Western Gully. Got stuck under the boulder at the top and had to remove my pack to get through. Didn't use my axes much. Good protection all the way. Started late and didn't arrive back at the CIC hut until 10.30pm.
with Conrad Bower
Awesome winter route. Felt like a solid III. Gained the Arete via the Western Gully. Got stuck under the boulder at the top and had to remove my pack to get through. Didn't use my axes much. Good protection all the way. Started late and didn't arrive back at the CIC hut until 10.30pm.
with Conrad Bower
Hidden ?Mar, 2006 AltLd O/S
steven 16 Sep, 2005 Solo
adi bryant ?Feb, 2005 Solo
Neil McA 7 Oct, 1995 Solo In the rain.
with Martin Axe juggler Wilson, Dave Langrish
In the rain.
with Martin Axe juggler Wilson, Dave Langrish
Sean Kelly ?Feb, 1995 Solo Found it was III 4. Climbed midweek when it was quiet and perfect snow conditions. Needed care at the short corner in double boots! Climbed Direct start with Bob Anderson & Martin Mandel in the 80's. Mostly powder & verglas!
Found it was III 4. Climbed midweek when it was quiet and perfect snow conditions. Needed care at the short corner in double boots! Climbed Direct start with Bob Anderson & Martin Mandel in the 80's. Mostly powder & verglas!
michaelb1 ?Feb, 1991 Lead
with B & J Marshall
with B & J Marshall
Nick Biven 21 Mar, 1987 Solo
with Keith Fleming
with Keith Fleming
nigehughes ?Oct, 1983 Solo
with Colin Griffin
with Colin Griffin
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