UKC

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Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions apply between the Dancing Ledge and Valkyrie Buttress Direct, and also east of The Razor's Edge.

37m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Sustained, nervy climbing. Start at the groove right of the arete.
1) 5b, 25m. Take the groove to the roof then traverse right to clear it. Follow a corner to the faultline and take a stance 3m to the left. Take care with rope drag.
2) 5a, 12m. Climb the wall on the right to a roof. Swing right around an arete then climb through the weakness in the overhangs, to the top. © Rockfax

FA. B.Snell, M.Colson. FFA. Richard Crewe 28/Oct/1973.

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User Date Notes
Iain Weymouth 1 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Move to roof protected by lower poor peg, the one under the roof has rusted out. Microcam useful before step right under roof. 120cm sling helps but difficult to eliminate drag.
Show beta
βeta: Move to roof protected by lower poor peg, the one under the roof has rusted out. Microcam useful before step right under roof. 120cm sling helps but difficult to eliminate drag.
ian bryant 2 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: crux on first pitch are the few moves needed to reach the break under the roof - fairly committing off poor wires (the pegs are knackered). worth taking a large cam for the break (i had a camalot 3.5) as otherwise you've got ground fall potential. tidy route though and even the second pitch is quite pumpy for 5a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: crux on first pitch are the few moves needed to reach the break under the roof - fairly committing off poor wires (the pegs are knackered). worth taking a large cam for the break (i had a camalot 3.5) as otherwise you've got ground fall potential. tidy route though and even the second pitch is quite pumpy for 5a.

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 18
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Thunderball

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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