Rockfax Description
A relatively easy lower wall and flake lead to a hands-off rest. The next move is the crux and is very reach dependent. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Taylor 28.11.93 28/Nov/1993

Ticklists: Winspit Sport Climbs.

lena.drapella 30/Jun Lead dog
duncan 27/May Lead dnf

Too hard for me. Not a reach problem- I'm just not good enough.

Owen Diba 13/May 2nd
Laurence Everitt 13/May Lead RP

First Dorset 7b

with Kelly Chin, Tamsyn Street, Owen Diba, Maddy W Thomson
mishabruml 12/May Lead dog

Absolutely brilliant moves. Managed to get the crux in 2 halfs, find calum's high foot swap beta really hard but the long move to the crimp I did first go (just!) The crux bolt positioning is terrible, it's hard to clip and the draw hangs in the way of the crimp

with Callum Nelson
Linc 09/May Lead dog
with Kay
samparsons 22/Apr Lead RP
Linc 26/Mar Lead dog
with Kay
Linc 24/Feb Lead dog
with Kay
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
RFWilkie 02/Oct/16 Lead dog

Never quite managed the long move which is beyond my span at 5'8". Tried a slight dyno to the better crimp and touched it a few goes but never quite hung it. Nice route but extremely morpho crux.

Linc 17/Sep/16 Lead rpt
with Kay
Owen Diba 12/Aug/16 Lead dog
ian d f 19/Jul/16 TR RP
with shunt
Linc 05/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with Kay
Linc 21/Jun/16 Lead RP
with Kay
Linc 13/Jun/16 Lead dog
with Kay
Linc 07/Jun/16 Lead dog
with Kay
Dandan82 04/Jun/16 Lead RP
samparsons 29/May/16 Lead dog

I think better conditions and it may go but it will be at my very furthest reach.

anthony henry 30/Apr/16 Lead dnf
with Chris
jacobjlloyd 23/Jan/16 Lead RP

not so bad with intermediate. Better beta, easier climbing!

Hidden 23/Jan/16 Lead dog
ThomasB ?/Aug/15 Lead RP
Ed Babs 08/Jul/15 Lead RP

Cool reachy crux.

NewHam 25/Jun/15 Lead RP
Semtex 17/Jun/15 TR dnf

Tried after chris got a rope up. Got the moves figured just need to link

with Chris
Sophie Nunn 14/Jun/15 TR dnf
with Ed B
brian watson 22/Apr/15 TR dnf
Sophie Nunn 22/Apr/15 TR dog
with Brian
nimajneb ??/2015 Lead RP

Pretty close to the OS!

Matt.c.Warner ??/2015 Lead RP
Pete Scott 28/Dec/14 Lead RP

I manaaged this and I'm 5'10". Tough dynamic stretch! I don't think I could get it if the crimp was another inch away. Felt closer to 7b+ for me.

Hidden 24/Dec/14 Lead RP
jacobjlloyd 26/Oct/14 Lead dnf

Long move much!?

with Josh Bamsey
paultaylor 02/Jun/14 Lead RP
with Colette
lewiz 11/May/14 Lead RP

2nd RP. Skipped the crimp by the crux bolt and all underlings. Went out left to a left hand crimp and did the span from there. Decent route but only a single move St the 7b range.

feilx 13/Apr/14 Lead dog
trev_f 24/Nov/13 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Nov/13 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Sep/13 Lead dog
paultaylor 09/Sep/13 TR dog
with Tom P
Hidden 09/Sep/13 Lead dog
trev_f 10/Aug/13 Lead dog
ASchwirtz 30/Jun/13 Lead dnf
richardashe 30/Jun/13 2nd
Sami Mandeel 19/Jun/13 Lead RP
Sami Mandeel 15/Jun/13 Lead dog

Couldn't stick the reachy crimp. Short rest after the fall then cleaned it.

with Rob
Sami Mandeel 09/Jun/13 TR dog
with Rob
Monkey_Alan 21/May/13 TR dog

Tricky crux. Going to take some working out.

with Anita Christensen
Sami Mandeel 19/Apr/13 2nd dog

In line with Leftee's warning... pulled out a torso-sized block leaving a triangular scar about half the size behind. Luckily I was on top rope. Could've been worse if I was leading it. Fortunately nobody was stood directly beneath. No change in difficulty.

sam.sam.sam.ferguson 12/Mar/13 Lead RP

1st redpoint today after a previous day a few years ago. Just about made the span after using the intermediate.

Kris suriyo ??/2013 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 23/Nov/12 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead dnf
Leftee 25/Mar/12 -

Word of warning. Had a go on this last weekend. There's a tooth shaped block at the top of the layback crack. Grabbed it as an undercut and not sure if it actually shifted but a whole load of sand and crap fell out the bottom. Sounds pretty hollow so would be wary of it.

j miller ?/Jul/11 Lead
feilx 25/Jun/11 Lead dnf
with james d
Ducks Rock 27/May/11 TR

hauled through crux, silly hard.

with Fox
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 27/May/11 Lead dog

Hard to read crux and very height dependent. Could just about do the move. Next time!

Linc 27/May/11 Lead dog
Sami Mandeel 27/May/11 TR dog

Got through the crux move once. Ran out of skin trying. Hopefully it'll go next time.

Paul Robertson 22/Apr/11 TR dog

Shunted. Didn't manage the reachy move.

MontyH 19/Mar/11 TR
with Brian
brian watson 19/Mar/11 TR dnf
La benya 30/Oct/10 Lead RP

2nd go after Lewis worked out the move. Not hard enough for me for 7b but would be absolutely nails for anyone shorter (I'm a tall 5'11). Couldn't see any other way to do the move

Hidden 19/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Wendy 19/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 14/Aug/10 2nd dnf
with Martin
trev_f 17/Jul/10 TR dog
with Harry
tobydunford 29/May/10 Lead dnf

just could not do top move, absolutely huge, and im only little!

with Charlie
westyb3 05/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Alan Sarhan
colesy 30/Jan/10 Lead dog

Fell off at the long reach. Will get clean next time! Get left foot higher than the big hold before the long reach.

Martin Krasnansky 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 Lead RP
sam_cox 27/Dec/08 Lead
Ally Smith 07/Sep/08 Lead dog
dannyboy83 27/Apr/08 Lead RP
Rob Kennard 16/Jun/07 -
with Rich White
Hidden 04/May/07 Lead RP
The Jazz Butcher ??/2007 -
bigie bob 18/Jul/06 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Sep/98 Lead RP
steve taylor ??/1995 Lead

7B for me!

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