UKC

Rockfax Description
135m. A tough route offering an excellent day out. It is almost all crack climbing, from little fingers through to burly off-widths. The belays are equipped and there are some bolts, but take a full rack including plenty of slings (the pitches are long and rope drag may be an issue) as well as a single full set of cams (including large ones) and some wires. The route begins just to the right of a slightly dirty corner.
1) 7a, 30m. Avoid the corner as best you can and climb the cracked wall, past five bolts, to reach a blocky terrace.
2) 6c+, 35m. Tackle the steep finger-crack in the wall just right of the corner for the next 40m. After 20m, detour out of the corner for a few moves before returning to it.
3) 6c, 40m. This one is all about wide cracks, and some larger cams are needed. At the top, step left to a spectacular belay.
4) 6c, 30m. Climb the excellent, slabby finger-crack, past two bolts, immediately to the right of the edge of the pillar. From the final belay, scramble easily up to the Brévent viewing platform. © Rockfax


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 01/Aug/17 AltLd
Hidden 18/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
mcgovern 16/Jul/17 AltLd

P1+3 brilliant sustained climbing the whole way

Paul Collins 16/Jul/17 AltLd
Paul Collins ??/2017 AltLd
ndraper1 03/Aug/16 Lead dnf

saw we didn't have anything big to make pitch 3 comfortable on the way down, got psyched out and climbed badly all day. Its great quality, but pretty stiff if you've been cruising on granite all summer!

with Flynn
Hidden 09/Jul/16 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jul/15 2nd dog
walts4 ??/2015 -

Climbed this approx. 4 years ago stupidly thinking I was climbing Ex Libris!!!Obviously the guide book was back at home. Couldn't quite work out why I was finding it so hard. Amazing route, position & well worth climbing on a hot day as its tucked in out of the sun until the last pitch.

Alasdair Fulton 07/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Dave led the first (6b var on left) I did 2nd, 3rd and 4th. Second and last pitches phenomenal! E4 ish

with DDM
The old James turnbull ?/Jul/14 AltLd
with ben oc
Hidden 03/Sep/13 AltLd dog
AnnaBacklund ?/Jun/12 2nd
3 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High ED3
Mid ED3
Low ED3
High ED2
Mid ED2
Low ED2
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 3
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set