Rockfax Description
175m. A fun line although the upper section is much better than the lower buttress, which is a little grassy in places. Some bolt heads may be missing so take some cams. Hopefully the bolts will be restored but if they are not, the off-width will feel bold as it is too large for anything other than huge cams, so make sure you are within your grade.
Approach - From the Brévent, descend past Crakoukass and stay on the jeep track until level with the top of the Jumeaux and cross the grassy slopes on a small path to reach the top of Catyoucha Man. Abseil down two pitches of Catyoucha Man and then make two abseils down Bodinosaure to reach steep grass (a section of which is protected by a fixed rope). This in turn leads down to the foot of the route. It is possible to avoid the steep grass by making a third abseil just above the top of pitch 1 of Bodinosaure.
1) 6a, 20m. Slabby, featured rock leads to a belay just above the tree tops.
2) 5c, 35m. Cross easy ground, past an optional abseil/belay and up some grassy grooves before climbing the slab above. At the top of the slab, cross the grassy ledge to belay beneath a steep wall.
3) 6b, 40m. Climb the wall via cracks and crimps before moving left at the top to a belay level with the top of a single tree.
Scramble down rightwards, via a short section of fixed rope, to belay beneath a wide crack.
4) 6b, 20m. The off-width crack might best be described as 'traditional'. Enjoy!
5) 6c, 25m. The thin flake-crack is as good as it looks but is no pushover. Luckily the difficulties are concentrated into the first 10m, after which the angle kicks back.
6) 6c, 35m. A long, tough but rewarding pitch to finish. Climb the steep, thin cracks to a hand-crack which is both technical and physical, and keeps coming right to the end. Step left towards the top of the pitch to reach the ridge crest and a well-positioned belay. Scramble up the ridge easily to reach the top of Catyoucha Man and the approach path.
Descent - It is easier to descend to Planpraz than to walk back up to the BrĂ©vent. Reverse the approach to the jeep track and follow this down. © Rockfax


ClimberDateStyle
Rob_Morris1996 12/Jul 2nd O/S

Mixture of this and Catyoucha Man, not sure what combo though

with Linus, themattyshep
themattyshep 12/Jul Lead O/S

Up to the grassy ledge then up Catyoucha man

with Rob M
Hidden 04/Sep/16 AltLd
Hidden 16/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
walts4 ??/2016 -
walts4 13/Jun/15 -
ndraper1 03/Jul/14 -

first 3 pitches linked with catyouchaman, 6b pitch is top quality

Pete Houghton ?/Jun/14 AltLd
dan ely 10/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with dan
Dan724 10/Aug/12 Lead

A personal test. Floundered about for ages on the off-width crack of P1 as I've never climbed one before, but got up it in the end. Got 'flake' pitch first go (despite its alleged 'crux' pitch status), then proceeded to freak out on the final pitch (finger crack) due to bolts having been removed and my utter inability/inexperience on crack climbs. A real baptisim of fire, but thanks to Dan E's patience and advice I learnt a lot.

with Dan Ely
dan ely 14/Jul/12 Lead

1 rest to phyke myself up for runout top pitch (several bolts are missing, take midium cams) 3 diff styles of cracks- CRACKING!

with steve
Dave Rumney 05/Jul/10 AltLd

6b pitch only

with Tanya Milner
clarky ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
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