Rockfax Description
180m. The route starts at the foot of the slab and is marked by a bolt with some tat tied through it.
Approach - From the Planpraz, follow the jeep track in the direction of the Brévent for 250m. Stay on the jeep track as it turns left and climbs steeply for 100m, passing between two rock walls. 50m after the rock walls, a small path branches off right to the foot of the route.
1) 5b, 35m. Quite a long pitch with a high first bolt. Follow the slab and drift right near the top, up a slightly grassy corner to a belay amongst the trees.
2) 5c, 45m. Another long pitch, which is better than it appears at first. The climbing is excellent and sustained and leads to another grassy belay.
3) 5c, 40m. Cross the grassy ledge, climb the slab above and step left 10m from the top in order to climb a final short wall and a belay on the ridge crest.
From this belay, downclimb a short gully on the northeast side of the ridge (this can be abseiled (15m) from the third belay if necessary) and walk back onto the west side of the ridge to reach the next belay.
4) 4c, 20m. Climb the slabby rib to the ridge crest.
5) 4a, 20m. Follow the ridge easily, in an excellent position to a 6m abseil on the west face. From the foot of this, scramble up the grass to the final pitch.
6) 5a, 20m. An excellent finish up a slabby wall with a couple of funky moves near the start and easy slab climbing above. Abseil 6m onto the north side in order to get off the final pinnacle.
Descent - Scramble down the rocks and grass to a good path which leads easily to the jeep track. © Rockfax

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Alfrede 11 Aug Show βeta
βeta: First move is indeed surprisingly awkward but 6b is fantasy. Probably worth about 5c+!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First move is indeed surprisingly awkward but 6b is fantasy. Probably worth about 5c+!
Webster 9 Jul Show βeta
βeta: the very first move is the hardest on the route, more like 6b than 5b! maybe it is 5b when banked out with snow at the base of the crag? the final section of ridge crest is excellent!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the very first move is the hardest on the route, more like 6b than 5b! maybe it is 5b when banked out with snow at the base of the crag? the final section of ridge crest is excellent!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
gooberman-hill 26 Oct Lead dnf P1 only as we pootled up for a climb in the afternoon sun, and wanted to get the last lift down. What we climbed was very pleasant and really good quality. We'll be back :-)
with flegere
P1 only as we pootled up for a climb in the afternoon sun, and wanted to get the last lift down. What we climbed was very pleasant and really good quality. We'll be back :-)
with flegere
Jack93 4 Sep AltLd O/S
davelongbottom 25 Aug AltLd O/S
IainMay 25 Aug AltLd O/S
Jamiewalkerjones 9 Aug -
Dean.p.92 9 Aug AltLd O/S
adawson 4 Aug AltLd O/S Led the 2nd, 4th and 6th pitches, nice end to the week with some interesting climbing, particularly enjoyed the final short pitch (even if it felt a little detached from the rest of the route), warm sunny day and had the route to ourselves
Led the 2nd, 4th and 6th pitches, nice end to the week with some interesting climbing, particularly enjoyed the final short pitch (even if it felt a little detached from the rest of the route), warm sunny day and had the route to ourselves
duncanedgley 4 Aug AltLd Led P1, 3 & 5
with adawson
Led P1, 3 & 5
with adawson
Johnathan 3 Aug AltLd O/S A great pitch halfway up of sustained granite slab climbing. The first pitch goes out right and doesn't top out. Don't crawl through the bushes into the ants nest. Then dont fall on the slab above it. Or pull the rocks out above that.
A great pitch halfway up of sustained granite slab climbing. The first pitch goes out right and doesn't top out. Don't crawl through the bushes into the ants nest. Then dont fall on the slab above it. Or pull the rocks out above that.
mattorford 2 Aug - excellent last pitch
with Gina
excellent last pitch
with Gina
tjockosne 28 Jul -
Hidden 17 Jul AltLd O/S
Aled Williams 16 Jul -
with Calum
with Calum
Webster 9 Jul AltLd O/S first three pitches in rock boots, rest in walking boots. surprisingly good line and enjoyable climbing.
first three pitches in rock boots, rest in walking boots. surprisingly good line and enjoyable climbing.
Alfrede ?Jul AltLd O/S Pleasant route climbed along with 4 pitches of Raclette before a shower stopped play.
Pleasant route climbed along with 4 pitches of Raclette before a shower stopped play.
fraserfallsoffalot 27 Jun -
jimmy66 23 Jun -
Tim Bevan 5 Sep, 2018 AltLd Not to my taste but Sarah seemed to have a nice time.
Not to my taste but Sarah seemed to have a nice time.
SarahVanda 5 Sep, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 21 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Pudman88 30 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
sn 18 Jul, 2018 AltLd Pitches 1 to 3 only. Tricky start to P1. P2 sustained, P3 quite delicate in the first part.
with Denise
Pitches 1 to 3 only. Tricky start to P1. P2 sustained, P3 quite delicate in the first part.
with Denise
Aimee Elliott Demay 14 Jul, 2018 -
with jcoup
with jcoup
Stuart Russell 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S First 3 pitches are great. Ridge traverse is alright too but the final pinnacle is just a bit pointless and lichen covered
First 3 pitches are great. Ridge traverse is alright too but the final pinnacle is just a bit pointless and lichen covered
Amy Henchoz 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd
jcoup ?Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Nice route! Bolts feel spaced at times. Ridge at the end is fun!
Nice route! Bolts feel spaced at times. Ridge at the end is fun!
Hidden 10 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
YellowFellow 5 Sep, 2017 Lead rpt Link-up with Spitomaniak - good combo, 17 pitches on total.
with Iwona
Link-up with Spitomaniak - good combo, 17 pitches on total.
with Iwona
steve_gibbs 15 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
ali.scott ?Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
ollyalkema 6 Jul, 2017 AltLd lovely 3rd pitch
with emma greenwood
lovely 3rd pitch
with emma greenwood
Ginge1988 5 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S First pitch OK, Second is described as a 5b in Chamonix crag book, and as a 5c in the Aiguille Rouge book. Definitely 5c Third pitch, is a super easy 5c, best pitch of the route, I'd go back just for this!
First pitch OK, Second is described as a 5b in Chamonix crag book, and as a 5c in the Aiguille Rouge book. Definitely 5c Third pitch, is a super easy 5c, best pitch of the route, I'd go back just for this!
jameslomax 1 Jul, 2017 2nd dnf First three pitches in horrible rain
with Omar Shah
First three pitches in horrible rain
with Omar Shah
Adam.Watson 30 Jun, 2017 AltLd Excellent route, links nicely with Spitomaniak to avoid walking up the jeep track! Successfully avoided an ant hill at the top of the first pitch by falling off the edge of the cliff and taking a beautiful swing on top rope.
Excellent route, links nicely with Spitomaniak to avoid walking up the jeep track! Successfully avoided an ant hill at the top of the first pitch by falling off the edge of the cliff and taking a beautiful swing on top rope.
ChrisH89 30 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
janegallwey 16 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
staceyjg 26 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
YellowFellow 10 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Nimrod, Dalit
with Nimrod, Dalit
Hidden 6 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
niallsash 6 Jul, 2016 AltLd
with kdo
with kdo
Hidden 23 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
PeteMc 23 Jun, 2016 AltLd
Mike Roger ??, 2016 -
Hidden 16 Jul, 2015 AltLd
alexm198 2 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Led P2 and P3. Nothing to write home about, but better than nothing! Bit of a jungle bash back to the lift station.
Led P2 and P3. Nothing to write home about, but better than nothing! Bit of a jungle bash back to the lift station.
JonLongshanks 2 Jul, 2015 AltLd I led the easier 5b first pitch. With a pack on and with the hot weather didn't feel great. Alex led top 2 pitches which I very occasionally had to french-free (we are in France though!!). Jungle bash back down to the lift. Fantastic views opposite of the Mont Blanc range. Will have to be back to Cham.
I led the easier 5b first pitch. With a pack on and with the hot weather didn't feel great. Alex led top 2 pitches which I very occasionally had to french-free (we are in France though!!). Jungle bash back down to the lift. Fantastic views opposite of the Mont Blanc range. Will have to be back to Cham.
jonskippy 5 Aug, 2014 AltLd dnf Started raining just as I started the second pitch so called it a day!
with Edgars
Started raining just as I started the second pitch so called it a day!
with Edgars
emilyjhunt ?Jun, 2014 AltLd
with Jaspar Topham
with Jaspar Topham
jcw ??, 2014 -
wendys ?Aug, 2013 -
with DannyDJB
with DannyDJB
TomDisomma ?Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Very nice route, bolts are spaced in a few pitches, oesmt get any sun until midday
Very nice route, bolts are spaced in a few pitches, oesmt get any sun until midday
Pete_Frost 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S The start of pitch 2 above the white cord is as hard as any move on this line. Beautiful flowers en route.
The start of pitch 2 above the white cord is as hard as any move on this line. Beautiful flowers en route.
howes19 ?Aug, 2011 -
Happy Wanderer 3 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Roger F, Ken T
with Roger F, Ken T
Hidden ?Jul, 2010 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2007 2nd
Hidden ??, 2007 Lead
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