UKC

Rockfax Description
180m. The route starts at the foot of the slab and is marked by a bolt with some tat tied through it.
Approach - From the Planpraz, follow the jeep track in the direction of the Brévent for 250m. Stay on the jeep track as it turns left and climbs steeply for 100m, passing between two rock walls. 50m after the rock walls, a small path branches off right to the foot of the route.
1) 5b, 35m. Quite a long pitch with a high first bolt. Follow the slab and drift right near the top, up a slightly grassy corner to a belay amongst the trees.
2) 5c, 45m. Another long pitch, which is better than it appears at first. The climbing is excellent and sustained and leads to another grassy belay.
3) 5c, 40m. Cross the grassy ledge, climb the slab above and step left 10m from the top in order to climb a final short wall and a belay on the ridge crest.
From this belay, downclimb a short gully on the northeast side of the ridge (this can be abseiled (15m) from the third belay if necessary) and walk back onto the west side of the ridge to reach the next belay.
4) 4c, 20m. Climb the slabby rib to the ridge crest.
5) 4a, 20m. Follow the ridge easily, in an excellent position to a 6m abseil on the west face. From the foot of this, scramble up the grass to the final pitch.
6) 5a, 20m. An excellent finish up a slabby wall with a couple of funky moves near the start and easy slab climbing above. Abseil 6m onto the north side in order to get off the final pinnacle.
Descent - Scramble down the rocks and grass to a good path which leads easily to the jeep track. © Rockfax


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 10/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
steve_gibbs 15/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
ali.scott ?/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
ollyalkema 06/Jul/17 AltLd

lovely 3rd pitch

with emma greenwood
Ginge1988 05/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

First pitch OK, Second is described as a 5b in Chamonix crag book, and as a 5c in the Aiguille Rouge book. Definitely 5c Third pitch, is a super easy 5c, best pitch of the route, I'd go back just for this!

jameslomax 01/Jul/17 2nd dnf

First three pitches in horrible rain

with Omar Shah
Adam.Watson 30/Jun/17 AltLd

Excellent route, links nicely with Spitomaniak to avoid walking up the jeep track! Successfully avoided an ant hill at the top of the first pitch by falling off the edge of the cliff and taking a beautiful swing on top rope.

ChrisH89 30/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
janegallwey 16/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
staceyjg 26/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
kdo 06/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Did this set of routes as thunder storms were forecast, handy morning, nothing hard, good practice

niallsash 06/Jul/16 AltLd
with kdo
Hidden 23/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
PeteMc 23/Jun/16 AltLd
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Hidden 16/Jul/15 AltLd
alexm198 02/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P3. Nothing to write home about, but better than nothing! Bit of a jungle bash back to the lift station.

Hidden 02/Jul/15 AltLd
jonskippy 05/Aug/14 AltLd dnf

Started raining just as I started the second pitch so called it a day!

with Edgars
emilyjhunt ?/Jun/14 AltLd
with Jaspar Topham
jcw ??/2014 -
wendys ?/Aug/13 -
with DannyDJB
TomDisomma ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Very nice route, bolts are spaced in a few pitches, oesmt get any sun until midday

Pete_Frost 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

The start of pitch 2 above the white cord is as hard as any move on this line. Beautiful flowers en route.

howes19 ?/Aug/11 -
Happy Wanderer 03/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Roger F, Ken T
Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd
Shuttsie ??/2007 2nd
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
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