UKC

Rockfax Description
200m. This excellent route is slightly overshadowed by its neighbour.
Approach - From Planpraz, follow signs for 'Lac Cornu' and pass under Hotel California. Continue for 100m then turn left and Scramble up the grassy slopes below the route. There are lots of cairns and the odd section of vague path but otherwise it is a somewhat awkward uphill grind to the start of the climbing.
1) 4b, 25m. Climb the short, easy slab and cross the grassy ledge to a belay at the right-hand side of another slab.
2) 5b, 30m. After a bit of a funky move straight off the belay, cross the chimney leftwards and follow the slab to a belay on a grassy ledge.
3) 5a, 25m. Traverse ledges and grass (often wet) to reach a short wall. Climb this and move left to a belay.
4) 5b, 30m. Follow the sustained slab to a grassy slope.
Walk 60m uphill from here to the next belay. It is not easy to spot, but is 5m to the right of the toe of the upper buttress.
5) 5c, 40m. Steady climbing leads to a steep pull through a small overhang (optional belay just before this). Once through the overhang, the belay is 2m above and is well positioned, with an excellent view of the Clocher itself.
6) 3a, 25m. Climb the slab easily and drift leftwards to a belay beneath, and just to the north of, the final summit tower. This pitch has the odd bolt but is otherwise barely protected so stay alert despite the minimal difficulties.
7) 5a, 25m. Follow the steep and straightforward arête to the summit ridge and belay here.
Walk along the ridge to the summit proper and abseil down the west face to reach the Clocher-Clochetons approach path.
Descent - Walk down to Planpraz on the Clocher-Clochetons approach path. © Rockfax


ClimberDateStyle
Finn Curry 28/Aug/17 2nd
with Paul Warnock
Hidden 25/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
BenCollis 23/Aug/17 AltLd
Merlin 22/Aug/17 AltLd dog

I think the RockFax description of the route is out to lunch. The 'easy 4b slab' at the start is probably the crux in comparison to the 5b over hang, and some of belays aren't where described - possibly re-bolted since? The brilliant final pitch made it for me.

with Dave Tait
steve_gibbs 09/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
spragglerocks 05/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Led even pitches - exciting finish!

with John
ali.scott ?/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
EllieWoods 22/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
petecallaghan 22/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Richard Alderton 22/Jul/17 2nd O/S

A little bit of French free (on the 'easy' first pitch)

Hidden 16/Jul/17 AltLd
ClimberJimmyB 16/Jul/17 AltLd
Rob Royle 16/Jul/17 2nd
with Mountain Guide
Rob N 08/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Stuart Johnston 02/Jul/17 Lead
with Lara Kesterton
Steve Woollard 14/Jun/17 AltLd
with Gavin
Siongethinhill 10/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with adam martin
Happy Haggis 07/Sep/16 2nd
Robbo1 06/Sep/16 -

Great day with Jonny.

hairy51 23/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

A little broken, but good fun. Final 5a pitch is epic.

10029759 23/Jul/16 AltLd G/U
Davidmcneill125 19/Jun/16 AltLd dnf
maty500 12/Sep/15 AltLd
with Sam2257
Sam2257 12/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

lead P2, 4, 6 & 7. Guide suggests following arête of the slab on P7 to the summit then descending to again to then summit the clocher on P8. This is a little pointless and unfulfilling. Better to cut across the slab instead to the base of the clocher to start P8. Great exposure on the final pitch!

with maty500
Katie S ?/Sep/15 AltLd
Matt Schwarz ?/Sep/15 AltLd
with katie
tradguy 31/Aug/15 AltLd dnf
mcaterina 31/Aug/15 AltLd
Ken Applegate 07/Aug/15 AltLd

Nice climb, and much quieter than the only slightly harder Cocher-Cochon round the corner.

with Andy Barker
Andrew Barker 07/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Dawn_K_B 05/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Excellent. Led P3,4,6,8. Loved the overhang crux pitch and the final arete, well worth the longer walk in!

Sam Ash 05/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/15 -
Mike Turner 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Joshua Turner
Hidden 14/Aug/12 AltLd
Stephen18 30/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
dan ely 13/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with brian (the scott)
Hidden 13/Sep/10 AltLd dnf
Hidden 14/Aug/10 AltLd
kylieo 14/Aug/10 AltLd

Led pitches 1(4b), 3(5a), 5(5a) and 8(5a). Seconded 2(5b), 4(5b), 6(5c) and 7(3).

with Stu, Phil
Hidden ??/2010 -
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