UKC

Rockfax Description
240m. The route begins at the foot of a rounded, wide pillar, 20m to the left of a deep gully.
1) 5c. Excellent climbing on the crest of the pillar.
2) 5c. Easier ground to a few tricky moves before the belay.
3) 4b. Follow the arête easily to a belay just to the right of a gully. From the end of this pitch, scramble up and left for 5m to reach the first bolt of pitch 4. The bolt is tough to spot but once established the route is clear and goes diagonally up and left.
4) 5b. The bolting will feel a bit sparse if this is near your limit, but the climbing is excellent.
5) 5c. Head straight up then traverse right and finish steeply up some occasionally friable rock. The summit of the pillar is great and there is plenty of space to relax and take in the view.
6) 4b. Walk across the summit of the pillar, make a 25m abseil and then follow the excellent rock ridge towards the Col de la Glière. Go around the first two towers on the right and the third tower on the left to reach the foot of a 20m slab. There is the odd bolt and peg to show you the way. The climbing up to this point is exposed in places but never gets harder than 4b.
7) 5c. Climb the slab past a bold-feeling leftwards rockover (5c) to reach a bolted abseil anchor. Make a 15m abseil, coil the ropes and scramble easily to the Col de la Glière. © Rockfax

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User Date Notes
tomlake 6 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Anchors not quipped for abseil.
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βeta: Anchors not quipped for abseil.
Osiris 23 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The ridge traverse was the most spectacular and interesting part for sure! The ascent prior to that is very easy.
βeta?
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βeta: The ridge traverse was the most spectacular and interesting part for sure! The ascent prior to that is very easy.

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Voting
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
Votes cast 1
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Manhattan

Grade: TD- 6a ***
(Aiguilles Rouges)

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