UKC

Rockfax Description
240m. The route begins at the foot of a rounded, wide pillar, 20m to the left of a deep gully.
Approach - From the top of the Index chairlift, descend the jeep track back towards the Flégère until it splits after 5 minutes or so. Take the right-hand branch, signposted for the Lachenal ski piste, and follow this as it gradually swings rightwards and up towards the Col de la Glière. Around 30 minutes after leaving the chairlift you will be directly opposite the foot of the route. Leave the path and cut across a small valley, heading directly for the first pitch.
1) 5c. Excellent climbing on the crest of the pillar.
2) 5c. Easier ground to a few tricky moves before the belay.
3) 4b. Follow the arête easily to a belay just to the right of a gully. From the end of this pitch, scramble up and left for 5m to reach the first bolt of pitch 4. The bolt is tough to spot but once established the route is clear and goes diagonally up and left.
4) 5b. The bolting will feel a bit sparse if this is near your limit, but the climbing is excellent.
5) 5c. Head straight up then traverse right and finish steeply up some occasionally friable rock. The summit of the pillar is great and there is plenty of space to relax and take in the view.
6) 4b. Walk across the summit of the pillar, make a 25m abseil and then follow the excellent rock ridge towards the Col de la Glière. Go around the first two towers on the right and the third tower on the left to reach the foot of a 20m slab. There is the odd bolt and peg to show you the way. The climbing up to this point is exposed in places but never gets harder than 4b.
7) 5c. Climb the slab past a bold-feeling leftwards rockover (5c) to reach a bolted abseil anchor.
Descent - From the foot of the final 15m abseil, scramble easily to the Col de la Glière and from here follow the path back to the Index chairlift. Allow 1 hour 15 from the foot of the abseil back to the chairlift. © Rockfax


ClimberDateStyle
Gazmataz 18/Aug/17 -

With fay and her friend emma. Didn't find the final pitch had to run back to catch the last lift down. Thankfully missing the thunder storm that hit when we got to the bottom.

Hidden 04/Aug/17 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/17 AltLd
mchardski ?/Jun/17 Lead

easy but nice

with Nico
Matt Schwarz 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

vertical was good, traverse was quiet sketchy and the final pitch was quiet loose

with katie
Katie S 07/Sep/14 AltLd
jon_ridley 18/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

superb outing. replenished all hanger backup tat.

with Nia
Hidden ?/Jul/14 -
rosieposey14 10/Sep/12 AltLd
with mark challoner
Stephen18 29/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Rock a bit loose at points. Little to no bolts on traverse, worth taking some slings!

Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
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