UKC

12m.

Rockfax Description
From the ledge on the previous route, step right and climb the steep groove throughout , or the narrow wall to its left. © Rockfax

FA. Paul Nunn 1957.

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User Date Notes
Lewis Stonehouse 5 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Took a whipper on this yesterday, gear held and all’s well that ends well. Definitely sandbagged, would probably just avoid this and climb something else
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βeta: Took a whipper on this yesterday, gear held and all’s well that ends well. Definitely sandbagged, would probably just avoid this and climb something else
Lauren Bailey 19 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Came off this yesterday. Part of the flake broke off early in the route (just above the ledge), took a fall but my gear held. Higher up, realised that the rock quality was deteriorating and so decided to bail. The gear I was lowering from gave out, I hit the ledge below and shattered my foot. Agree with the comments below - this is one to avoid.
βeta?
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βeta: Came off this yesterday. Part of the flake broke off early in the route (just above the ledge), took a fall but my gear held. Higher up, realised that the rock quality was deteriorating and so decided to bail. The gear I was lowering from gave out, I hit the ledge below and shattered my foot. Agree with the comments below - this is one to avoid.
allanyeates 12 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: One to skip. Not particularly hard, just shit. Watch out for loose gritty ledges near the top.
βeta?
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βeta: One to skip. Not particularly hard, just shit. Watch out for loose gritty ledges near the top.
SL77 24 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: I've not climbed this but friend came of it a few days ago. He tried to back off from the gritty dirty ledge/hand holds and his feet slipped, gear popped and after several backward rolls he landed under drizzle. Very luck to just have a broken bone in his foot. Maybe it's tough for the grade but it definitely needs a good clean but it's tried
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I've not climbed this but friend came of it a few days ago. He tried to back off from the gritty dirty ledge/hand holds and his feet slipped, gear popped and after several backward rolls he landed under drizzle. Very luck to just have a broken bone in his foot. Maybe it's tough for the grade but it definitely needs a good clean but it's tried

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Hobson Moor Quarry

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 34
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Layback Crack

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Dovestones Edge)

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