Rockfax Description
150m. A clever line weaving through some impressive territory at a relatively amenable grade. The route can be hard to follow, particularly around the third pitch, where a number of minor, rarely climbed routes cross it. Stick with the oval glue-in bolts and you shouldn't be too far off. The route begins at a steep pink wall and is the left of the two lines of bolts.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb the enjoyable wall and step right to belay. Walk left across the grassy ledge to a thread belay at the foot of the next pitch.
2) 5c, 30m. Follow the slabby wall to a stance under a roof.
3) 6a, 40m. Move up and then step left around the overhang to reach a ramp. Follow this before branching off left onto a slab and cross this leftwards to a belay.
4) 6a+, 20m. Continue up the slab and cross onto steeper ground above. Climb this and then step out right in a pretty exposed position to an excellently positioned stance.
5) 6a, 35m. Climb the steep wall above the belay and follow it as the angle gradually eases to a belay on the summit ridge. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+) , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| will_lake | 5 Sep, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: There is no belay at the top of pitch 4 (6a+). Other user comments from 2020 state there are two bolts spaced apart with white thread to clip into. I found only one which was a rusty peg and a very old looking tape sling. The first bolt of the final pitch is a good few moves above the belay so definitely not a belay bolt. This felt very sketchy for me, more so because I got bad rope drag arriving at the belay and could climb no higher - you should extend draws as much as possible on this 4th pitch as it goes left, then right, then left to finish. There is a spike to place a sling around at the belay but it didn't feel bomber to me. Why would a fully bolted sport route not have a belay above the hardest pitch high up on the cliff?? | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: There is no belay at the top of pitch 4 (6a+). Other user comments from 2020 state there are two bolts spaced apart with white thread to clip into. I found only one which was a rusty peg and a very old looking tape sling. The first bolt of the final pitch is a good few moves above the belay so definitely not a belay bolt. This felt very sketchy for me, more so because I got bad rope drag arriving at the belay and could climb no higher - you should extend draws as much as possible on this 4th pitch as it goes left, then right, then left to finish. There is a spike to place a sling around at the belay but it didn't feel bomber to me. Why would a fully bolted sport route not have a belay above the hardest pitch high up on the cliff?? |
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Pilier Sud
Grade: TD ***
(Envers des Aiguilles)