UKC

Rockfax Description
150m. A clever line weaving through some impressive territory at a relatively amenable grade. The route can be hard to follow, particularly around the third pitch, where a number of minor, rarely climbed routes cross it. Stick with the oval glue-in bolts and you shouldn't be too far off.
Approach - From the top of the Index chairlift, descend towards Lac Blanc for 50m then take the jeep track on the left which takes you up towards the Grande Floria and Aiguillette de la Floria. Just after the path branches off to the Grande Floria the jeep track crests a small col and descends rightwards. Cut off left and pass under the Aiguillette de la Floria and then climb up to the top of the Floria drag lift. 20m past the top, follow a path left almost to the foot of Pointe Gaspard. From here head to the foot of the route. The route begins at a steep pink wall and is the left of the two lines of bolts.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb the enjoyable wall and step right to belay. Walk left across the grassy ledge to a thread belay at the foot of the next pitch.
2) 5c, 30m. Follow the slabby wall to a stance under a roof.
3) 6a, 40m. Move up and then step left around the overhang to reach a ramp. Follow this before branching off left onto a slab and cross this leftwards to a belay.
4) 6a+, 20m. Continue up the slab and cross onto steeper ground above. Climb this and then step out right in a pretty exposed position to an excellently positioned stance.
5) 6a, 35m. Climb the steep wall above the belay and follow it as the angle gradually eases to a belay on the summit ridge.
Descent - Scramble easily along a ridge for 25m to reach the summit proper of the Pointe Gaspard. Downclimb the north ridge (easy scrambling) to reach the Col des Crochues. Descend the Aiguilles Crochues approach path from here. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+).


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 03/Aug/17 AltLd
Christine 02/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with peter riley
ollyalkema 20/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

lead P1, P2 and P5 - the final pitch is a real beauty. watch out for potential rope drag issues on the traverse of P4.

with pablo herraez
metrorat 09/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Amy Wight
cayteye 06/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

i led the 6a pitches and the first pitch v nice doable but deffo climbing on it

Colin Scotchford 26/Jul/15 AltLd
Hidden 02/Jul/15 AltLd
Hidden 21/Aug/13 AltLd
Grant Fulton 21/Aug/13 AltLd

Lead 6a's and 6a+ pitches. Nice route, rope drag a bit of a problem on traverses.

Hidden 23/Aug/12 AltLd
Andy Clarke 18/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Fine climbing, with two exciting traverses on P3 and P4 linked by a well-positioned hanging belay. Moves leaving this were pretty thin. Led Ps 1,3,5.

with Tim
Dan818 ?/Jul/12 -
chrissloan84 ?/Aug/11 -
with paul
Hidden 08/Jul/11 2nd dog
Jack Loftus 08/Jul/11 AltLd

6a+

Hidden 08/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
augustus trout 05/Aug/10 2nd

TD (bolted) 6b I led the easy pitch where the only danger was falling marmots. Had to just thrutch/scrape along the rest behind Dunc.

with Duncan Lee
Hidden ?/Aug/10 -
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