Rockfax Description
III, 600m. Often icy but finding it in good condition is tricky. Often it has lots of black ice and is thin - harder than the given grade suggests in these conditions. It can be abseiled from where it joins Mont Dolent's north ridge. A popular option is to continue to the summit and descend the Glacier de Pré de Bar into the Val Ferret in Italy - this means you need to carry skis up the route.
1) The bergschrund is usually passed on the right. Continue straight up a narrow gully before traversing left to reach the right-hand of two runnels.
2) Climb the runnel and then move rightwards onto the lower angled ground above.
3) Continue up icy mixed ground on the left of the gully.
4) Where the gully splits, take the left-hand branch and continue to join Mont Dolent's north ridge. © Rockfax

Feedback Always Hide βeta