Rockfax Description
III, 600m. This route is often icy but finding it in good condition is quite tricky. It can often have lots of black ice and is sometimes thin, in which case it will be harder than the grade suggests. It can be abseiled from where it joins Mont Dolent's north ridge but a popular option is to continue to the summit and then descend the Glacier de Pré de Bar into the Val Ferret in Italy, although this means you need to carry skis up the route.
Approach - Follow the Glacier d'Argentière to its southeastern end. This is more or less flat until just before the routes, when it kicks up to form a short snow slope at around 25 degrees. Approach time is given from the Refuge d'Argentière - approaching from the lift in one go will add an hour.
1) The bergschrund is usually passed on the right. Continue straight up a narrow gully before traversing left to reach the right-hand of two runnels.
2) Climb the runnel and then move rightwards onto the lower angled ground above.
3) Continue up icy mixed ground on the left of the gully.
4) Where the gully splits, take the left-hand branch and continue to join Mont Dolent's north ridge.
Descent - Abseil down the route although the quality of the fixed anchors can vary so take some abseil cord and an Abalakov threader. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Chamonix Winter Ideas.

Hidden 09/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
BorisVBlade 16/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Great route, abseil down after the end of the difficulties at 3600 m, equipped for 60m ropes.

Neil D 16/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

First climb in ski-boots. Cold.

stuart34 06/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Thin start, book sayes rapel descent but could not find consistent good anchors so descended to italy - ball ache! Moved together for whole route.

with Kim Ladiges
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