This climb is a more direct and harder variation of the Welzenbach Route and was considered to be much safer. The start is a couloir below and slightly L of the crux pitch on the original route. After a few hundred metres some quite difficult climbing (scottish winter IV) is encountered moving R to the icefield below the rock barrier. After crossing the barrier a more direct line is taken (easier climbing now but sustained) to exit on the NE ridge. 8-9hr.
L Griffin & P Barlett 1977.
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Route of Interest
North Face Original Route
Grade: ED1 ***
(Matterhorn)