Restricted Access
A very nice crag with a popular non-tidal upper tier and well-featured rock.
There is a large colony of Herring Gulls which are now on the "red list" of endangered species in the UK, on the mid-height ledge in Spring - early summer, climbers are requested to avoid this section (see details below) as there is now an agreed seasonal restriction on this venue.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
There are likely to be a number of gulls and chicks during the nesting season on the half-way ledge of B-Team Buttress. At least 18 pairs of Herring gulls are known to nest here, making it one of the most important single sites for Herring gulls on this coastline. Please avoid during 1st March to 31st July. Routes affected are: 'Cloud Nine, Hang Ten' to 'CDM' on lower tier (routes 6-11 in CC guide) and 'Snap, Popple and Crack' to 'The Jogger' on the upper tier (routes 16-28). The gulls would make the climbing experience fairly unpleasant so better to choose another crag at this time of year.
(There are also agreed seasonal restrictions on the adjacent crag of Seaside Gully - see details under this crag)
Rockfax Description
The best of the routes on this face starting from the ledge below the main Crickmail face.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb a wall then step left to a crack on the arete. Take a line up leftwards then step back right into a groove which leads to the break. Step right to belay on the terrace.
2) 5b, 20m. Climb diagonally leftwards to a ledge. Move back right to a break then climb up a crack, past a small overlap, and on to the top. © Rockfax
FA. C.Heard, G.Lewis 03/May/1980.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Neil Foster | 7 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pitch one of this felt tricky and committing traversing out to the initial arête, with low handholds a bit too close to the line of perfect footholds. And the crack at the end of the traverse is a bit discontinuous and ill-defined compared to what I was expecting. Was I just climbing badly, or has this section of P1 been affected by rockfall? Certainly felt E3 to me, and a much harder lead than P2... | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Pitch one of this felt tricky and committing traversing out to the initial arête, with low handholds a bit too close to the line of perfect footholds. And the crack at the end of the traverse is a bit discontinuous and ill-defined compared to what I was expecting. Was I just climbing badly, or has this section of P1 been affected by rockfall? Certainly felt E3 to me, and a much harder lead than P2... |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Crickmail Point
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Chimes of Freedom
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Mowing Word)