Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction is unsigned and applies to all routes on Right Wall (Peregrine Way to Prudence). The remaining routes including the popular scramble and descent are unrestricted.
150m, 4 pitches.
1 - 35m 4c. Start at the same height as Gillercombe Bastion at the base of the pedestal right next to the gully. Climb the left side of the pedestal and end up standing on top. Make a delicate moves up and left to a good nut and reasonable handholds and then scramble another 15m to a good belay crack (3 x friends).
2 - 25m 4b. Head up the crack and then right to the base of a heather slab. Climb this and then scramble to another crack belay slightly at the top of the grassy ledge (above and right of belay 2 of the Bastion).
3 - 30m 4c. Take the obvious rising traverse line rightwards, crossing both gullies to the belay below pitch 6 of Gillercombe Buttress (crux move is up the the crack to the stance).
4 - 60m 3c. Pitches 6+7 of Gillercombe Buttress.
2 - 25m 4b. Head up the crack and then right to the base of a heather slab. Climb this and then scramble to another crack belay slightly at the top of the grassy ledge (above and right of belay 2 of the Bastion).
3 - 30m 4c. Take the obvious rising traverse line rightwards, crossing both gullies to the belay below pitch 6 of Gillercombe Buttress (crux move is up the the crack to the stance).
4 - 60m 3c. Pitches 6+7 of Gillercombe Buttress.
Paul Stephenson, Stewart Boutcher 15/May/2010.
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Route of Interest
The Crack
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Gimmer Crag)