Rockfax Description
Once one of the most serious routes on British limestone, originally sieged over two days and done in two pitches. Following a clean up and gear replacement, it is now a hard (E6/7b+) but a fairly well-protected climb of the highest quality, done in one huge pitch. Starting just right of M1, climb a wall to reach and climb a desperate bouldery groove then move left to a runner and rest in M1. Move out right and up the shallow groove and trend right up the wall on pockets (bolt) heading for a peg with a tape and junction with V2. Climb back left with difficulty passing a pair of pegs and an awkward to clip and easy to miss bolt. Pull blindly through the bulges above (further bolts) trending left and then direct to finish, avoiding the loose bits. © Rockfax

FA. Dominic Lee, Daniel Lee 1983. The regrading of this route makes it the first E7 in the Peak, predating Moffatt's Verbal Abuse on Raven Tor. However it is likely that the holds used by the Lee brothers have long since fallen off so exactly how hard it

Ticklists: Trad climbs for sport climbers, Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue.

nathanlee 13/Apr/14 Lead RP

Went up, fell, put the gear in and topped out into a jungle of thornbushes. Second time up I pulled over onto the easy climbing, then reversed to the last bolt and lowered. Will take a saw next time I'm there! Bolt lower off somewhere wouldn't be amiss.

with Dom Lee
harvie 12/Apr/14 Lead RP
with mark
ukb & bmc shark 02/Aug/07 Lead dog

Went wrong way at girdle missing the bolt and lobbing onto pegs. Probably would have fallen off top anyway.

ukb & bmc shark 28/Jul/07 Lead dnf

Got scared - wire placement was hidden by cobwebs and foothold broke.

with John Codling
ukb & bmc shark 22/Jul/05 Lead dog
with Mike Garton
dominic lee 10/Jul/05 Lead RP

A great morning.Fell once from the top moves which felt harder than i remembered,however the bottom groove felt easier.Always wanted to do this in one pitch. Also did M1..Roadrunner and V2 before the sun found us out.

with daniel lee
ukb & bmc shark 24/Jun/05 Lead dog

Grabbed the bolt at the girdle - rats

with Christian Klem
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 28/May/05 Lead β

Gear beta from Graham Hoey. Felt like F7b+...very nearly fell off at the top.

with Eric Hildrew
Hidden 15/Sep/04 Lead RP
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High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 2
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Flashed (β)