40m.

Rockfax Description
A worthy route which deserves more attention and would get three stars on most other cliffs. The upper section feels a little bold but solid gear keeps appearing. Traverse left from the belay beneath Original Route. Move up then step left again to a small overlap - reachy. Alternatively, follow Debauchery a little further then move back right to the overlap. Climb direct from here (crux) to gain a crack. Climb this (peg and threads) to a final awkward section where the crack ends at a hole. Finish direct. A rather serious direct start is possible up the grassy lower slabs at E1 5b - peg runner out right. © Rockfax

FFA. Pete Livesey, Jill Lawrence 1976. Previously aided.

Ticklists

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UserDateNotes
Ged Desforges 3 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The fluttery symbol and "bold" description are worth ignoring, plenty of in situ gear, and plenty of bomber placements, not bold at all. Good route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The fluttery symbol and "bold" description are worth ignoring, plenty of in situ gear, and plenty of bomber placements, not bold at all. Good route.
Ropeboy 21 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A few small wires, some in-situ threads and old pegs protect. Steady climbing with some tricky moves between good holds. Probably done best with 60m ropes.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A few small wires, some in-situ threads and old pegs protect. Steady climbing with some tricky moves between good holds. Probably done best with 60m ropes.
teddy 23 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Superb route and with a superdirect start straight up to the overlap without clipping the peg on the right! This was quite scary and runout with the hardest moves on the route I found. Only did this by mistake and recommend that you do it clipping the peg. Well done to whoever recently replaced the 4 insitu threads - absolute bombers!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb route and with a superdirect start straight up to the overlap without clipping the peg on the right! This was quite scary and runout with the hardest moves on the route I found. Only did this by mistake and recommend that you do it clipping the peg. Well done to whoever recently replaced the 4 insitu threads - absolute bombers!
Katya 17 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Over-shaddowed by surrounding routes, but I thought it much better than your average 2* peak limestone route...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Over-shaddowed by surrounding routes, but I thought it much better than your average 2* peak limestone route...
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 10 Oct Lead O/S
Stuart Walker 21 Sep Lead dnf A fantastic route. The first section has some lovely climbing with spacy but not to bold gear. Annoyingly bailed off at the hole below the top thread as i lost faith in what was above (here it is a tad bold). Another one for ‘next time’...
A fantastic route. The first section has some lovely climbing with spacy but not to bold gear. Annoyingly bailed off at the hole below the top thread as i lost faith in what was above (here it is a tad bold). Another one for ‘next time’...
Hidden 14 Sep Lead
dannyboy83 8 Aug Lead O/S
with Dad
with Dad
Andrew1 3 Aug Lead O/S
with Dan
with Dan
Paul ablitt 9 Jun Lead rpt
with Rushy
with Rushy
Dale 30 May Lead O/S Outstanding one of the best single pitch routes I have ever done. Favourite on this wall so far. I love high tor
Outstanding one of the best single pitch routes I have ever done. Favourite on this wall so far. I love high tor
john lynch 15 May 2nd O/S
with Lewis Andrew
with Lewis Andrew
Mike_Hayes 12 May Lead rpt
James Oakes 16 Feb Lead O/S
with Henry Francis
with Henry Francis
Hidden 15 Sep, 2018 Lead rpt
Hidden 9 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
Brannock 25 Aug, 2018 Lead rpt
islandlynx 25 Aug, 2018 2nd
Hidden 26 May, 2018 2nd rpt
The Grist 26 May, 2018 Lead rpt
Mike_Hayes 12 May, 2018 Lead rpt In the rain.....
with Mike Lea
In the rain.....
with Mike Lea
Al Evans ??, 2018 Lead Added Direct Start.
with Jim Moran
Added Direct Start.
with Jim Moran
Paul ablitt 16 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
with Lucy, Rushy
with Lucy, Rushy
FeargalR 16 Sep, 2017 2nd O/S
Mike505 1 Sep, 2017 2nd O/S
with John
with John
Brannock 1 Sep, 2017 Lead rpt
Dizz 5 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S Reachy! Brilliant climbing.
with Wil
Reachy! Brilliant climbing.
with Wil
Wil Treasure 5 Jul, 2017 Lead
with Liz Fowler
with Liz Fowler
dan gibson 21 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Katerina petkova
with Katerina petkova
katy_abra 21 Jun, 2017 2nd
Hidden 11 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
Simon Davis 23 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S Great route. Steady at the grade. 3 stars..
with Scott, Tim P
Great route. Steady at the grade. 3 stars..
with Scott, Tim P
nai 15 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
with Nickc
with Nickc
Nickc 15 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S
with nai
with nai
Mike_Hayes 3 Jul, 2016 2nd rpt
with Duncan Barrack
with Duncan Barrack
WB 27 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Legs would not stop shaking. Thought it was going to get dark before i finished!
Legs would not stop shaking. Thought it was going to get dark before i finished!
Hidden 19 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
Louishmouis 18 Jun, 2016 2nd
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 18 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Good route, thought it was pretty steady for e3
Good route, thought it was pretty steady for e3
phil64 16 May, 2016 Lead O/S A fantastic pitch one of the best on the crag at that grade!
with Andy Bowman
A fantastic pitch one of the best on the crag at that grade!
with Andy Bowman
Mike_Hayes 15 May, 2016 Lead rpt
The Grist 3 Oct, 2015 2nd
with Dan Metcalfe
with Dan Metcalfe
manwithacam 3 Oct, 2015 Lead Great route to end a good day on. Lowever traverse definately spicy, great test of reading the rock and working out the problem. Same again for the move from the rest, then gradually eases, but with loads of great climbing above. What a great crag.
with Mark
Great route to end a good day on. Lowever traverse definately spicy, great test of reading the rock and working out the problem. Same again for the move from the rest, then gradually eases, but with loads of great climbing above. What a great crag.
with Mark
Hidden 26 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S
Brannock 20 Sep, 2015 Lead Good, quite hard crux which isint that well protected, enough gear to keep the rest reasonable, great move to get the top break.
Good, quite hard crux which isint that well protected, enough gear to keep the rest reasonable, great move to get the top break.
Duncan Campbell 20 Sep, 2015 2nd Nice nowhere desperate but nowhere easy
Nice nowhere desperate but nowhere easy
James Oswald 15 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S Ace
with Malcolm Scott
Ace
with Malcolm Scott
James Oswald 15 Aug, 2015 2nd Ace
with Malcolm Scott
Ace
with Malcolm Scott
Andrew Sloan 15 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
malx 15 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Martin Haworth 15 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Apr, 2015 2nd
Mike_Hayes 28 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Mike Lea
with Mike Lea
eel 25 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
with Andy J
with Andy J
bigdrew 25 Sep, 2014 Lead rpt Followed previously but never led before. More in in-situ threads than I remembered..
with eel
Followed previously but never led before. More in in-situ threads than I remembered..
with eel
Hidden 30 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
eel 9 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with Ian
with Ian
nathanlee 2 Jul, 2014 2nd β
dominic lee 2 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Climbed direct to the overlap. Quite bold.
Climbed direct to the overlap. Quite bold.
Apharri 30 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
with Jim Gayler
with Jim Gayler
Ricky Rocks 13 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S 3 stars in my opinion, great route, nice and long..
3 stars in my opinion, great route, nice and long..
steve_yo 13 Apr, 2014 2nd
philhilo 30 Mar, 2014 Lead So annoyed - did the hard traverse in from Original Route, cruised the rest of it and bailed groping around the slopy ledges and grass near the top! Excellent route.
with heg
So annoyed - did the hard traverse in from Original Route, cruised the rest of it and bailed groping around the slopy ledges and grass near the top! Excellent route.
with heg
Dave Turnbull, BMC 29 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S Led shortly after holding Greg's exciting 40 footer on Decadence p1.
with Dan Arkle, Greg Cunningham
Led shortly after holding Greg's exciting 40 footer on Decadence p1.
with Dan Arkle, Greg Cunningham
JayAyBee ??, 2014 Lead O/S Brilliant, easier than Darius though!
Brilliant, easier than Darius though!
mike mo ??, 2014 -
duncan 1 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
with IainAM
with IainAM
J.Wells 14 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Ima Nahumury
with Ima Nahumury
Mark Leicester 29 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Great climbing, suspect rock and bold near start makes it feel quite intense but rest of route is great and has good gear.
with Rob Woon
Great climbing, suspect rock and bold near start makes it feel quite intense but rest of route is great and has good gear.
with Rob Woon
markalmack 29 Jun, 2013 2nd rpt didn't even realize i had done this before...
with ctodd
didn't even realize i had done this before...
with ctodd
Hidden 29 Jun, 2013 Lead β
Si dH 15 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S In one pitch
with Andy
In one pitch
with Andy
Hidden 2 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
JBO 22 May, 2013 Lead O/S Great route, totally deserves three stars, felt pretty solid at the grade.
Great route, totally deserves three stars, felt pretty solid at the grade.
Keendan 28 Feb, 2013 2nd β Excellent climbing, maintaining interest all the way. 3 stars for me. Solid lead from Andy.
Excellent climbing, maintaining interest all the way. 3 stars for me. Solid lead from Andy.
Andy Peak 1 28 Feb, 2013 Lead Nice long friendly route! Except the very top wich was damp and A bit loose
with dan
Nice long friendly route! Except the very top wich was damp and A bit loose
with dan
Glenn Sutcliffe 5 Sep, 2012 Lead
with Pete Cresswell
with Pete Cresswell
esther ?Aug, 2012 Lead
Hidden 16 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
ojp 31 Mar, 2012 2nd dnf Lost chalk bag just before the crux had to down climb off
Lost chalk bag just before the crux had to down climb off
Hidden 31 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Hannes B 27 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S Direct start - very bold and brittle
with harvie
Direct start - very bold and brittle
with harvie
The Grist 20 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
with Lee Hamilton
with Lee Hamilton
markalmack 2 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
with ctodd
with ctodd
Hidden 2 Oct, 2011 2nd O/S
gavjwp 3 Sep, 2011 2nd
with Richard Ray
with Richard Ray
richardr 3 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S Really good and sustained but a little bold towards the top. Ran out of rope to set up the belay, need 60m to belay from the ground.
Really good and sustained but a little bold towards the top. Ran out of rope to set up the belay, need 60m to belay from the ground.
Speeddemonsi 28 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers 30 Jul, 2011 2nd rpt
bigdrew 3 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
steveb2006 9 Jun, 2011 Lead Tree now completely gone from O R belay
with David Andrew
Tree now completely gone from O R belay
with David Andrew
goshawk 9 Jun, 2011 2nd
with Steve Burns
with Steve Burns
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides 28 Apr, 2011 2nd
tuftynick 28 Apr, 2011 Lead rpt
Hidden 27 Mar, 2011 2nd rpt
alaan 27 Mar, 2011 Lead rpt
with Aly
with Aly
Hidden 19 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
Misha 9 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S Good route, lots of 5b moves and some 5c but a rest is never too far away. Thought it was actually less sustained and easier than Darius but the gear is more spaced.
Good route, lots of 5b moves and some 5c but a rest is never too far away. Thought it was actually less sustained and easier than Darius but the gear is more spaced.
Neil McA 17 Sep, 2010 2nd rpt
with Andrew James
with Andrew James
CharlieMack 4 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden 4 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
alaan 3 Jul, 2010 Lead rpt
Daniel Wicks 19 Jun, 2010 2nd
with Rob
with Rob
nickcanute ??, 2010 Lead
Hidden 18 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
Somerset swede basher 19 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with Bridget Hall
with Bridget Hall
bridget143 19 Aug, 2009 2nd O/S
Adam Ellwood 30 May, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 May, 2009 Lead rpt
DavidEvans 23 May, 2009 2nd
Martin Cooper 8 Jun, 2008 2nd Sunny day in cap and sunnies Great sustained climbing
with Stan
Sunny day in cap and sunnies Great sustained climbing
with Stan
Ian Broome 31 May, 2008 Lead O/S Easier then darius.
with alaan
Easier then darius.
with alaan
alaan 3 May, 2008 2nd O/S
with Matt
with Matt
mattyork2 3 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with alaan
with alaan
nige 5 Mar, 2008 2nd
with dave parton
with dave parton
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Hidden ??, 2008 -
feilx 20 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
with msoldn
with msoldn
Hidden 6 Oct, 2007 2nd β
Ram MkiV 6 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
with alex b
with alex b
Russell Birkett ?Oct, 2007 2nd O/S
with Tim Whitaker
with Tim Whitaker
Brown 10 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
with Tom Walker
with Tom Walker
Brian Rodgers 9 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
with Neil Hillis
with Neil Hillis
Alex Mason 6 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S Really good 3* anywhere else but overshadowed by its neghbours! If high tor were sport this would probably be the best out the 3.
Really good 3* anywhere else but overshadowed by its neghbours! If high tor were sport this would probably be the best out the 3.
v.jester ?Jun, 2007 2nd
with alex
with alex
Ropeboy 20 May, 2007 Lead
Hidden 22 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
ellis ??, 2007 Lead O/S
with Tom Holdsworth
with Tom Holdsworth
Hidden ??, 2007 -
steveb2006 23 Sep, 2006 Lead
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Boy ??, 2006 -
Hidden 4 Sep, 2005 Lead O/S
Dave Bond 25 May, 2005 Lead O/S
with SiW
with SiW
steveb2006 27 Jul, 2004 Lead
with Pete Carter
with Pete Carter
steveb2006 5 Jun, 2003 Lead
with Roland Smith
with Roland Smith
jamiev 17 May, 2002 Lead O/S
with Adrian Berry
with Adrian Berry
tuftynick ??, 2001 -
tuftynick ??, 2001 Lead
goshawk 28 Jun, 2000 2nd
with Rob
with Rob
steepstuff ??, 2000 -
steveb2006 10 Jul, 1998 Lead
with Rob Gambles
with Rob Gambles
Hidden 16 May, 1998 Lead O/S
steveb2006 14 May, 1997 Lead Have done this a few times but this time do a better (proper?) start by traversing right from Unoriginal Route (just below level of peg) to arrive below the Perseus flake - some thin moves
with Rob Gambles
Have done this a few times but this time do a better (proper?) start by traversing right from Unoriginal Route (just below level of peg) to arrive below the Perseus flake - some thin moves
with Rob Gambles
Hidden 5 Jun, 1994 Lead O/S
Stoney Boy 17 Oct, 1993 2nd O/S
with Bob Marks
with Bob Marks
Roget 1 Aug, 1993 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
steveb2006 21 Sep, 1991 Lead Using the (easier) Debauchery start. Brian belays only
with Brian Hamilton
Using the (easier) Debauchery start. Brian belays only
with Brian Hamilton
pete johnson 14 Mar, 1991 Lead O/S
with Andy Blakely
with Andy Blakely
ajtay ??, 1990 -
with Various
with Various
Seymore Butt ??, 1990 2nd
with Spuz
with Spuz
Alan James - UKC and UKH 20 Jul, 1989 Lead
with Phil Baker
with Phil Baker
DDDD ?May, 1989 Lead O/S Scary first half
Scary first half
William Robertson ?Sep, 1988 Lead O/S
with Emily
with Emily
AlexRenshaw 26 Jun, 1988 2nd
with Tim Raffle
with Tim Raffle
steveb2006 27 May, 1988 Lead
with Simon Mee
with Simon Mee
Seb Grieve 27 Jun, 1987 -
steveb2006 26 May, 1987 Lead Have to belay in the Darius scoop as not much gear left
with Nigel Robinson (Yorkie)
Have to belay in the Darius scoop as not much gear left
with Nigel Robinson (Yorkie)
charlesmfrench ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Ian Milne
with Ian Milne
Hidden ??, 1987 AltLd
Derek Furze ??, 1986 -
UKB Shark 19 Jun, 1985 Lead O/S
with Dave Marsh
with Dave Marsh
David Slater 16 Jun, 1985 Lead O/S
with Leicester Uni MC
with Leicester Uni MC
sadams 15 Jun, 1985 2nd
with Kevin Edwards
with Kevin Edwards
Hidden 6 Apr, 1985 Lead
Robmwatt ??, 1985 Lead
with Gaz Morgan
with Gaz Morgan
andy gittins ??, 1985 -
Neil McA 13 Sep, 1984 Lead O/S
with 'jonathan'
with 'jonathan'
Dave Turnbull ?May, 1984 2nd
with Paul Greenland
with Paul Greenland
Ian Jones ??, 1983 Lead O/S
with John Meyers, John Kirk, Mick Ward, Mick Bailey, Rich Lewis
with John Meyers, John Kirk, Mick Ward, Mick Bailey, Rich Lewis
Gezzer ??, 1983 Lead O/S
with Merv Dudley
with Merv Dudley
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
Hidden ??, 1980 AltLd
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 42
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 40
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set