UKC

Restricted Access

The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.

A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.

For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.
3 pitches. Important note - all but the first 200m of this traverse are within the MOD range and climbing is not allowed. You can do the first 200m and escape up the route Weld's Mother which is a bolted 4c route.

A 1300m traverse!
The grade refers to the easiest alternative and presupposes ideal conditions: a warm sunny day, calm seas (the difficulty is very dependent on tides and waves) and lots of friends (friends, not Friends). A long, fairly sustained traverse on firm rock all the way: a fine but committing expedition. Start on the eastern side of the mouth of Lulworth cove. The final 200m are only possible within a few hours of low tide but may be avoided. A rope is advised for the vertical finishing pitches.
1) Diff. Traverse east at sea level. After about 200m the cliff top is clear and escape is easy; this is the Fossil Forest, an internationally important geological site. Continue below overhangs for a long way and to a slight bay (beyond are some wide ledges and 200m past these are the pinnacles in the sea which mark Mupe Bay).
2) HS 4b, approx 200m. At low tide continue east, only hard at the start, to the final zawn before Mupe Bay.
3) Diff, 15m. Start beneath a low overhang a short distance from the final zawn. Climb diagonally right and up to a ledge. Continue up the crack above and exit rightwards onto an easy north slanting slab. Follow this past a cave into Mupe Bay.

Variations:
2a) VD, 12m. Start just to the east of the slight bay on pitch 1. Climb the wall just to the left of the nose of the buttress and belay in a corner.
3a) VD, 12m. From the corner traverse 10m left and finish straight up on sound rock.
3b) HVS, 6a, 50m. A contentious grade maybe, but the technical section is not long, and nothing more than deep water awaits a blunder. Hardest at the start. After pitch 2, traverse at low level around into the final zawn and continue around the headland into Mupe Bay.

Ticklists

South West Coast Traversing ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alan James - Rockfax 2 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The MOD has asked that people don't climb this since all but the first 200m are in the range. Negotiations are ongoing with the BMC.
Show beta
βeta: The MOD has asked that people don't climb this since all but the first 200m are in the range. Negotiations are ongoing with the BMC.

Logged Ascents

29 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Lulworth

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Voting
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Soloed
DWS
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Far from the Madding Crowd

Grade: VD ***
(Seacombe)

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