Restricted Access
November 2017 update
Reports of climbers being told to leave by security staff from the quarry and stating that they will be removing the bolts form this venue. BMC are investigating.
The owners of the site (Cemex Ltd) have approached the BMC to advise that this crag is within and forms part of a larger site that is an active and working quarry. They are legally bound by the Quarries Regulations 1999 to ensure that they take appropriate steps to prevent public access to the site, and have requested the BMC to inform climbers that climbing is not allowed at this site.
2020 update
Climbers have been heavily using this crag (especially during lockdown) with no issues. If approached by Cemtex Staff, please comply with their request if asked to leave and get in touch with your local access rep.
Rockfax Description
A varied pitch that tackles the bulge, slab and upper wall. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start up a rising rightwards trending line through the initial overlaps. Once on the slab, grapple with with shotholes then cut back left via a tricky rockover to gain bolt No4. Easier but insecure climbing leads to a reassuringly juggy finish past the last bolt. Goldie Looking Chain lower off. Upgraded to Fr.7b.
Alan Rosier 15/Jun/2010.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Taff's Well West
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Trailblazer
Grade: 7b ***
(Taff's Well West)