Rockfax Description
8m. Teeter up the left edge of the wall with a bold move or two. © Rockfax

FA. Jim Rubery 1984

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List.

Dan Hostford 14/Oct/17 Solo O/S
with Tom Ellwood, LSMC
tsl42 27/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Oliver Houston 22/Jul/17 Lead
Jack Whiteley 22/Jul/17 2nd O/S
with Ollie
razzle 30/Apr/17 2nd

Most juggy pebble i've ever seen!

with Lucy Waite, Henry O'Brien
Stephen3005 30/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Andy Hardy 02/Apr/17 2nd O/S
Rory_Cummings_NI 05/Oct/16 Solo O/S
Hillson 20/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Richard Byrom 06/Sep/16 TR β

Superb little climb and managed to stick the crux move using the pebble

with Himanshu
paul79 17/Aug/16 Lead
alaster tonge 13/Aug/16 Solo O/S
John Eley 19/Jul/16 TR
with Ed, Stephen Graham
devious wally 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
mrphilipoldham 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with George Miller, Georgina Watt
gandalph 17/Jul/16 2nd O/S
DanChad 23/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Chris Murray 23/Jun/16 2nd
Duncan Zerafa 05/Jun/16 2nd

Misread the route, thought it was VDiff, not many places for protection.

with George Williams, Ryan
crag 03/May/16 2nd dnf

2nd time climbing outside. this was a bit difficult for me

with Alan
Stroppy 20/Apr/16 Solo O/S
hamishjfk ??/2016 AltLd
with Marc Yeoman , Stephen spencer
Jweden2 ??/2016 TR
George Killaspy 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Rob
Robin Nichols 03/Oct/15 Solo O/S
with Jim, Roger
Hidden 26/Sep/15 Solo
Hidden 25/Sep/15 Solo
Ry 30/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 29/Aug/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S
cem 04/Jul/15 Lead dnf

Too tired and also not entirely certain what line this, as opposed to Icebreaker, was supposed to take.

Hidden ?/Jul/15 2nd
Prof. Outdoors 25/Jun/15 TR
with Mike P
kez1 ?/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Andrew Boardman
HannahGo 25/May/15 TR O/S
Albachoss 16/May/15 Solo O/S
MatthewH 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Simon Robertshaw
John Higgs 19/Apr/15 Solo O/S
Jamie Light 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Mesh
amccann 07/Mar/15 Solo O/S
Roberttaylor 07/Mar/15 Solo O/S
dan_o_b ??/2015 Lead
theboghopper 26/Oct/14 Lead
with Owain Baker
dan_o_b 16/Jul/14 Lead
stratandrew 16/Jul/14 2nd O/S

cams in the break but a very bold solo to the top with big potential for ground fall

kermit_uk 13/Jul/14 Solo O/S
rich_hw 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Nikki
Andrew Abraham 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Timmis, Ky
thomasmouse 21/Jun/14 2nd
JdotP 13/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Judging from the comments on this and adjacent routes, there seems to be some confusion over where this route goes. I climbed up the left hand side of the slab, placing gear behind the chockstone on the left and using it for my left hand. This is not the line shown and briefly described as "Fifth Horseman" in the Rockfax guide - that line is the line described as Icebreaker E2 5b here on UKC.

with Doctor Sam
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd
andy_d 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S

First HVS

with Harriet
alpinemonkey 15/Apr/14 2nd O/S
D.botts87 04/Dec/13 2nd
with Jerome
mevanssmith 16/Nov/13 2nd
JM0rrison 16/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S
MrTeej2 22/Sep/13 TR dog
with Natalie Haime
gpcomps 03/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Stoff 03/Sep/13 Lead RP
with gpcomps
simeclimb68 25/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Aug/13 2nd β
Hidden 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
The Norris 26/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Gavin
Prof. Outdoors 16/Jun/13 TR
with Kathryn, Lorna
The Patriot 10/Jun/13 2nd

Next time look for the sling option!

Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/13 Lead
RichyBOYY 04/Jun/13 Lead
Bradbury 26/May/13 Lead O/S
JimboWizbo 19/May/13 Lead

Used holds to the left and the pebble to the right, bit of an eliminate if you stick to the face, definitely hitting the floor from the last moves either way! Felt like HVS 4c-5a

with Beth
Hidden 19/May/13 2nd dog
deacondeacon 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Thought I was on the icebreaker, climbed it with pebble for right hand. Went back down, looked at guidebook and did icebreaker properly. Fifth Horseman was the better route.

Rob Gillespie ??/2013 Lead O/S
ashtond6 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
jmjw 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Rob H, Tim R, Sophie R
Double Knee Bar 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Bold as brass. Went up the right of the blunt arête ( past the pebble and crimp) with high rock over on to left foot. Seemed the appropriate line from rockfax topo. Defo HVS. There is real deck out potential from the crux.

Climbster 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 07/Sep/12 2nd β
with Matt
daviesp2 28/Aug/12 2nd
with Ross
petekeron 24/Aug/12 Solo O/S
with Solo
tombazal ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Killianmurphy 28/Jul/12 Lead β
Leonhamnett 12/Jul/12 Lead O/S
spacey 20/Jun/12 Lead
with Frank
Russell Blackaller 20/Jun/12 Solo O/S
FrankW 20/Jun/12 2nd rpt
with Rich M
jshields 13/May/12 Lead

Sarah belayed.

mmmhumous 30/Apr/12 Lead

Managed to get three tricams in the pockets on the slab.... felt VS 5b with them, HVS 5a without them sounds about right.

with Steve
Hidden 30/Apr/12 2nd
A Crook 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S

best done by using thin crack as the start

p_won 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Phil Layton 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Justin B, M@
tim.fairhall 08/Mar/12 Solo
timmyhobby 08/Feb/12 Lead O/S
PAJames ??/2012 -
TM_Horton 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with webby
joemallia 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Day our with Jill and Paul

bobpilgrem 25/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with Bob/Tom
Hidden ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
PeteWilson 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S

may have strayed slightly into the E2 territory

disturbed_one51 14/Aug/11 Solo
SHCS 24/Jul/11 -
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
staceyjg 24/Jul/11 2nd

John led

John Lewis 24/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Stacy
ashtond6 03/Jul/11 2nd
Col Allott 28/Jun/11 Solo O/S
julian allen 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
toeshurtN8 ?/Jun/11 -
daveyji ?/Jun/11 Lead β
with Linda Williamson
rockjedi 05/May/11 Lead
JasRY 03/May/11 Solo O/S
culmclimberRob 30/Apr/11 Solo
JemG 19/Apr/11 TR dnf

used the arrete of climb to the left, so not proper ascent.

Hidden 19/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
daveyji ?/Apr/11 2nd

In approach shoes.

with JT
Ky ?/Apr/11 Solo O/S
Somerset swede basher 23/Mar/11 Solo O/S
AMarchant 17/Mar/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/Mar/11 Lead
Goose4 ??/2011 Lead
tasmat 31/Oct/10 Lead

Nice climb, but no more than VS.

with Jon
Mike_Hayes 24/Oct/10 -
with Sarah Marks
Tala A 25/Sep/10 TR
simeclimb68 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
matthomas79 25/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Simon Palmer
Josh Maye 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
matthomas79 25/Sep/10 Lead β
with Simon Palmer
Hidden 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/10 Solo dnf
Fiskavaig 15/Aug/10 TR
with Pete P
MaccMark 10/Aug/10 2nd
with Alex Kvist
redknight137 23/Jul/10 TR
Byronius Maximus 03/Jul/10 Solo O/S
hardoreVdiffBen 03/Jul/10 Solo O/S
maybe_si 28/Jun/10 Solo O/S
mol 20/Jun/10 Lead
with Jesse
Jesse Dufton 20/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
jamesgodwin64 16/May/10 Solo
donkster 12/May/10 2nd rpt
with pete buswell, ben
cooper leek 12/May/10 Lead rpt

Did ages ago as second . Great route.Small can be beautiful.Well so me missus tells me .

with pete, donk
gpcomps 27/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with poya, Chris Bridgland
Stoff 27/Apr/10 Lead dnf

First attempt to lead a HVS. Reached "blank slab, could not see any gear and bottled it and finished via route of to the right.

with Mark S, gpcomps
bobpilgrem 17/Apr/10 TR
with Bob/Tom
tompilgrem 17/Apr/10 TR
with Dad
sasmojo 23/Mar/10 2nd
with Wayne G
GF ??/2010 -
Andy Clarke 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Only really one move, but a good one.

with Ralph
bobpilgrem 26/Sep/09 Lead β

Lead after a top route ascent- should have had courage to lead o/s as was straightforward ( a long reach being helpfull)

with Bob/Tom
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead RP
tompilgrem 26/Sep/09 TR β
with Dad
Rampikino 13/Sep/09 Lead
with Cat
Hidden 02/Aug/09 TR O/S
thrutch 18/Jul/09 Solo
robman 14/Jun/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/09 Lead rpt
cooper leek 30/May/09 2nd rpt
with donk
donkster 30/May/09 Lead rpt
with ben
Heinrich 10/May/09 TR RP

Commitment needed for the move right

with Gaz
nic42 22/Apr/09 Solo O/S
michael burrows 16/Apr/09 Solo
A Downing 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Damian Lawson
Daymo 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Andy
dsh 31/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Helend Dale & Davis Lui
jamie-annetts ??/2009 Lead O/S
with guy melbourne
Hidden ??/2009 2nd
Joez 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Felt solid

with Dad
Jimbo C 27/Sep/08 2nd O/S

Some confusion over the correct line on this

rockman 26/Sep/08 2nd O/S
timcedwards 26/Sep/08 Lead
ed edwards 26/Sep/08 Lead
with rockman
RichT 23/Sep/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead dnf
goi.ashmore 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with John Marsland
JWB 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with My brother Robin
John Marsland 23/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Goi
tobydunford 01/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Dux 01/Aug/08 2nd O/S
mr rob 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with ferg
Hidden 23/Jul/08 Solo rpt 08/Jun/08 Lead dnf

Ugh, missed an opportunity for a side runner and then spent at least 10 minutes standing on a lip on the blank section of wall (alternately hanging on from a pebble and a teeny sidepull). I had gear in, but there's now way it would have stopped me hitting the deck. Pleasently surprised how calm I stayed but ended up asking for a top rope. Very glad I did too, because I botched the next couple of moves and came off with it there.

with Wolfgang
Hidden 04/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 04/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead
will6459 29/May/08 Lead O/S
with Heather Rowland and Dave Mason
Milne 24/May/08 2nd O/S

harrowing sandy top out.

with Dave
Hidden 02/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Trigoc ?/Mar/08 Lead
with Phil
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 07/Oct/07 TR rpt
JdotP 25/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Stuart Bury
Hidden 08/Sep/07 Solo O/S
Rampikino 27/Jul/07 2nd
with MMC Various
JonBray 10/Jul/07 Lead O/S
climbing_wiggy ?/Jul/07 2nd β
with Whitey
Xav 30/May/07 Solo O/S
wirralclimber1984 15/May/07 2nd
rwm7131 15/May/07 Lead
dpmUK 15/May/07 2nd O/S
Peakphil 02/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Rampikino 20/Apr/07 Lead
with Cat
Hidden 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S
naughtybadboy 01/Apr/07 TR
Hidden 01/Apr/07 TR
Hidden 04/Feb/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S
davefount ??/2007 2nd
with alex maleins
Steve Banham ??/2007 Lead
with Layla
TRNovice 23/Sep/06 Lead dnf
with Jenn
Stig 19/Sep/06 2nd rpt
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Stig 19/Sep/06 Solo rpt
Hidden 07/Sep/06 2nd
tatz45 07/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Cameron13 31/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Mark, Kate, Rach
Lex_2004 09/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Sketchy in the fierce wind on the completely unprotected crystal moves

Katie Weston 09/Aug/06 2nd
welsh kim 25/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Oli lead, Gordon seconded
crossdressingrodney 25/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Gordon, kim
Nicos 11/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with keith leonard
Shad ?/May/06 Lead
Mark Eddy ??/2006 Lead
with Colin, Kate
shaun walby 18/Jun/05 2nd O/S
with Phil West
Hidden 20/Mar/05 Lead
Richard Hession 31/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Chris Molloy
Hidden 18/Jul/04 2nd
cem 04/Jul/04 2nd
with Rod Strachan, Graham Dolman
BlueJohn 27/Jun/04 2nd
with John Hempston
Hidden 23/May/04 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 02/May/04 Solo O/S
Stig 15/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Hidden 13/Oct/03 2nd
FrankW 11/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with Laura
adamwesthead 11/Aug/01 Lead rpt
with Taylor
adamwesthead 11/Jul/00 Lead O/S


with Taylor
phardman 14/May/00 Lead O/S
with Teresa
Roget 01/Jul/99 Solo O/S
Blod 13/Aug/96 Lead β
with Tony S
robtrooper ??/1996 -
John Eley ?/Oct/95 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 12/Sep/95 Solo
Rog Wilko ?/Jul/94 Lead

Not worth HVS. VS 4b. Not worth a star, either.

with Debbie Wilkinson
Hidden 10/Aug/93 Lead
Hidden 13/Sep/91 Lead
Rob Davies 12/May/91 Lead
with Angus McLean
uphillnow ??/1985 Lead
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 41
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set