Rockfax Description
10m. Climb the fierce thin cracks past the pod to a final groove. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
E1 5c in BMC Kinder guide

FA. Jim Rubery 1984

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List.

markvaughan 23/May Lead dog

Hard. As. Nails. Done easier E3's. The E2 Bellandonna 20m further along the crag is much more enjoyable and representative of the grade!

Tubs 07/May Lead dnf

Total sandbag at HVS 5b. E1/2 6a in more modern guides makes more sense.

with Dale
GeorgeNunn 06/May 2nd O/S
with George Reeder
Rory_Cummings_NI 04/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Rob Gillespie 11/Sep/16 Lead dog

Still can't get this bastard clean, HVS ha! It's harder than desperation.

Hidden 28/Aug/16 TR
Gordon W 18/Oct/15 2nd dog

Got absolutely annihilated, on lead, and then on second after. HVS 5b is a massive lie, more like E2 6a

CraigOsborne 18/Oct/15 2nd dog

e2 6a

chrismadar 18/Oct/15 Lead dog

What on earth? To think this was given HVS 5b in the old guide is pretty worrying. Absolutely nails!

Andy Peak 1 19/Sep/15 Lead

6a all day long if you take a strict aprroach, left left, slap rite no way on earth hvs!

Hidden 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S
bryce.dorin 03/Jun/15 2nd dog
with dunnyg
Hidden 03/Jun/15 Lead dog
MichaelGallimore 03/May/15 Lead rpt

Climbed the Y cracks to the top. Fell off the first go, tried again and led clean. Felt steady second go but significantly harder than hvs 5b.

with Brendan, Rob
John Higgs 19/Apr/15 Solo dnf
kermit_uk 13/Jul/14 Lead dog
Andrew Abraham 21/Jun/14 Lead dog

Sustained, really felt like I'd earned an E1, hard for the grade but good gears

with Dan Timmis, Ky
alaan 11/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Bloke on a Rope 18/May/14 Lead dog

Tried this four times from the ground but ended up having one rest at the pod then finished it would like to come back and get it clean, bloody hard for the grade more like top end E2!

with Jake, Matt
RFWilkie 04/May/14 Lead dog

Within about 3 inches of the onsight.

jshields 07/Jul/13 Lead
with Roman Jivkov
Rob Gillespie ??/2013 Lead dog
eddiem1 26/Oct/12 TR β
nic42 09/Sep/12 Lead dnf
with mike
gw3285 08/Aug/12 TR
gw3285 08/Aug/12 Lead
Tom Doldon 17/Jun/12 Lead dnf
with John Doldon
Hidden 20/May/12 Lead dnf
Alex Winter 20/May/12 Lead dog

Hard and sustained. Might have got it second go if I hadn't nearly de-gloved a finger in a jam.

timmyhobby 03/Mar/12 Lead dog

a fall at the beginning, then and almighty hail storm came in just as the climbing got easy at the top, lost my hat and had to stand pointing away from the hail for about 5 mins, then beautiful weather just after that! an experience

Hidden ??/2012 -
riddle 14/Aug/11 Lead dog

Tough beasty.

with Yasmina
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 13/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Jamie
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead dog
masa-alpin 12/Jun/11 Lead dog

I had a rest before the crux. Surprised to find it was still pretty hard a few years after my first attempt, when I was spanked. To be fair my arms were still tired from the previous day, but nevertheless... I shall come back! Good value for the grade!

with Ed P
Ketu 08/May/11 Lead dnf

Felt a bit 'ard for HVS 5B (Western Grit) had trouble getting intop the niche, maybe i'll try it when I can lead harder than E1

with Charles M
jamesgodwin64 25/Apr/11 Lead dnf

got to the crux (the flare crack) and fell glanced the floor was lucky to a point, gear is good but its pumpy climbing and theres a point u need to place gear and go for it, pretty harsh jamming crack will prob avoid unless with a mat next time

Hidden 13/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden 13/Mar/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 15/Jul/10 TR dnf
WillCass 15/Jul/10 TR

Too windy to lead anything so stuck a rope on this!

with Si
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead
John_Hat 26/Sep/09 2nd dog

Top section desperate. If you stick to the two thin cracks and don't reach out far left or right then its neither E1 nor 5c in my opinion! I've done far easier E3's!

Hidden ?/Jul/09 2nd
Jungle_153 ?/May/09 Lead
Stoff ?/May/09 TR
Hidden ?/May/09 2nd O/S
deejmonkey 15/Mar/09 2nd
with Tom
tomparrott 15/Mar/09 Lead
with DJ
Hidden ?/Sep/08 2nd O/S
goi.ashmore 23/Aug/08 Lead RP

A bit dirty. Undergraded as well.

with John Marsland
John Marsland 23/Aug/08 2nd dog

one rest, not E1

with Goi
dennett 10/Aug/08 2nd
with calvin dennett
dennett 10/Aug/08 Lead dog
with calvin dennett
Hidden ??/2007 Lead dog
masa-alpin 17/Jun/06 Lead dnf

Fell on to Adam's lunch box on a rock (with the rope stretch), as a cam popped out, unexpectedly. Close call.

with Adam W
Hidden 17/Jun/06 2nd dnf
Stig 20/Sep/05 Lead dog

Utterly desperate!

with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 02/May/04 2nd RP
adamwesthead 10/Aug/00 Lead dnf


with Taylor
phardman 14/May/00 Lead O/S
with Teresa
robtrooper ??/1996 -
The Reaper 02/Jun/95 TR O/S


uphillnow ??/1985 Lead
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