Restricted Access
November 2017 update
Reports of climbers being told to leave by security staff from the quarry and stating that they will be removing the bolts form this venue. BMC are investigating.
The owners of the site (Cemex Ltd) have approached the BMC to advise that this crag is within and forms part of a larger site that is an active and working quarry. They are legally bound by the Quarries Regulations 1999 to ensure that they take appropriate steps to prevent public access to the site, and have requested the BMC to inform climbers that climbing is not allowed at this site.
2020 update
Climbers have been heavily using this crag (especially during lockdown) with no issues. If approached by Cemtex Staff, please comply with their request if asked to leave and get in touch with your local access rep.
Rockfax Description
The wall and two overlaps. Some hollow rock. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Originally Trad E5 6b. Now retro bolted at Fr7a. Start 4m left of where the diagonal crack meets the ground. Pass the crack and up the centre of a barrel shaped rib. Climb directly through two overlaps, the upper and larger of which has a prominent hold on the lip. Once past the overlaps, trend rightwards to the BB.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rob Knowles | 27 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The hangar on the crux bolt fell off as I was lowering off. Have left the hanger on the first hold of the route | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The hangar on the crux bolt fell off as I was lowering off. Have left the hanger on the first hold of the route |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Taff's Well West
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Melting Man
Grade: 7a ***
(Taff's Well)