40m.

Rockfax Description
An excellent new route on superb rock and with good protection. Start 3m right of Black Sunshine at an overhang leading to a thin crack underneath a gap in the overhangs at 10m. Surmount the overhang and climb the crack to just below a bulge. Traverse left a couple of moves to a flake-crack leading up to the overhang forming the left side of the gap. Pull rightward round the overhang with conviction and into the gap. Bridge this to jugs and continue to the corner on Black Sunshine. At the top of this take a direct line on excellent rock to a small overhang. Pull through this on good holds and finish up a delightful prickly rib. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A superb route on excellent rock with good protection.
Start 3m right of Black Sunshine at an overhang leading to a thin crack underneath an obvious gap in the overhangs at 10m.

Surmount the overhang and climb the crack to just below a bulge.
Traverse left a couple of moves to an obvious flake crack leading up to the overhang forming the left side of the gap.
Pull rightward round the overhang with conviction and into the gap. Bridge this to jugs and continue to the corner on Black Sunshine.
At the top of this take a direct line on excellent rock to a small overhang. Pull through this on good holds and finish up a delightful prickly rib.

Simon Laker/Pete Finklaire 12/Jun/2010


ClimberDateStyle
LJC 23/Apr Lead dnf

Vague line, no stars. Couldn't be bothered with the roof so downclimbed and went elsewhere.

with Herve
julesmckim 15/Mar AltLd O/S

Split pitch as arrived at base of abseil with just one rope. Rob did the E1 bit. Hard moves over the bulge at the base, good climbing up to the mid height break. Bit of a scramble from there to the top.

with Rob Smart
Pero 14/Sep/16 2nd
Hidden 05/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Misha 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S

What a load of wankshite! The FA team must have been having a laugh with that description. More like poor climbing on suspect rock. The bottom bit is on but it's very cruxy - as soon as you're over the overhang, it's VS/HVS territory. The main thing though is that the climbing isn't actually that good. Plus there's no clear line to follow at the top - I opted for the small overhang followed by an easy but thankfully reasonably solid rib. None of the holds were actually loose (at least not the bits I pulled on) but it mostly looked dodgy. Only E1 5b and not a patch on the three star Boulder Ruckle E1s and E2s. Zero stars. Only went to do this because we wanted to have a look at Relax and Swing, which is nearby.

with Eszter
Graham Westbrook 29/Apr/16 Lead O/S

1st part is good but the last part of the route is a bit dodgy. It would be better to finish up Black Sunshine. 1 star

Matt77 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Low end E2 for my money, for the very loose top half if nothing else. Two stars is generous; the first half may be worthy of one but the second isn't that well a defined line, is loose and isn't particularly well protected albeit not particularly hard.

with Shane
islandlynx 17/Apr/16 2nd

Comments don't really support the description of a superb route. A loose poorly defined line. 1 star just because everyone loves Swanage.

onlyfoddington 07/Jun/15 2nd dog

I got to about 5m from the top before I ran out of steam. I found the layback crack felt insecure.

with Michael, Ian
ian d f 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
pearson9596 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Albachoss 31/May/15 2nd O/S

Steady

with Andrea
Anna Maykova 21/Sep/14 2nd
with Ian
Ian MK 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Anna
Kevster 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Choose your own adventure at the top, with a loose top out which was worth E2 for me.

Gavdee1 20/Jul/14 2nd
with Kev
Nexonen 20/Jul/14 AltLd dog
with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 20/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Andy J
Hidden 19/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
3 Names 03/Jun/14 Lead O/S

1 pitch

with Ed Bulman
paultaylor 25/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/May/14 AltLd O/S
Duncan Campbell 04/May/14 2nd

Good effort to Bubbles on this - tricky climbing up to and over the bulge but after that it is pretty mellow but a little loose. Great climbing.

with Bubbles
funsized 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Martin Haworth 03/May/14 Lead O/S
with Tony
Tony Holdsworth 03/May/14 2nd O/S
with Martin Haworth
Luxulyan 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Dan S
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead
bede.west 12/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Tom Livingstone 12/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

P2

clipskipper 01/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Good first pitch, but the second a little loose near the top.

with Ian Moodie
mattc 05/May/13 2nd O/S
adam 24 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
AlexD 04/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Ed
dan gibson 20/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Helen Gibson 20/Sep/12 2nd

thought the bottom part was hard for grade and upper section vs but not that great with loose top out.

with dan
Hidden 21/Aug/12 2nd O/S
givemetea 14/Jul/12 Lead O/S

climbed in a single pitch

with Ann Chong
cooperman 25/Jun/12 Lead
with Greg Foster
Ed Babs 12/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

P1. Second with AlexD on 04 Oct 12. Lead with Barry Kerslake 01 Oct 2015.

with Nick Williams
Marti999 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

very good rock all the way.

with Mick Ward
Hidden 03/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 20
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 23
Style of ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set