Restricted Access
November 2017 update
Reports of climbers being told to leave by security staff from the quarry and stating that they will be removing the bolts form this venue. BMC are investigating.
The owners of the site (Cemex Ltd) have approached the BMC to advise that this crag is within and forms part of a larger site that is an active and working quarry. They are legally bound by the Quarries Regulations 1999 to ensure that they take appropriate steps to prevent public access to the site, and have requested the BMC to inform climbers that climbing is not allowed at this site.
2020 update
Climbers have been heavily using this crag (especially during lockdown) with no issues. If approached by Cemtex Staff, please comply with their request if asked to leave and get in touch with your local access rep.
Rockfax Description
Head left then up to the overlap. Cross this to gain the left-hand end of the 'crystal ball niche' and finish up and slightly right. This line has suffered a rockfall, and is probably 7b in its current form and is still very dirty. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The original start has completely collapsed to leave a substantially different route. From the belay of Party Animal, head left on P bolts (very scratchy) out left, then up to the overlap. Cross this to gain the left hand end of the crystal ball niche and finish up and slightly right. Probably Fr7b in its current form, still very dirty.
Gary Gibson, Roy Thomas 20/Apr/1991.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Taff's Well West
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Melting Man
Grade: 7a ***
(Taff's Well)