Restricted Access
November 2017 update
Reports of climbers being told to leave by security staff from the quarry and stating that they will be removing the bolts form this venue. BMC are investigating.
The owners of the site (Cemex Ltd) have approached the BMC to advise that this crag is within and forms part of a larger site that is an active and working quarry. They are legally bound by the Quarries Regulations 1999 to ensure that they take appropriate steps to prevent public access to the site, and have requested the BMC to inform climbers that climbing is not allowed at this site.
2020 update
Climbers have been heavily using this crag (especially during lockdown) with no issues. If approached by Cemtex Staff, please comply with their request if asked to leave and get in touch with your local access rep.
Rockfax Description
Climb the rib and pockets before moving leftwards via more pockets to gain the 'crystal ball niche'. Take the right-hand line of bolts to a shared lower-off with The Quartz Bicycle. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A route hijacked by later additions.From the belay shared with You Never Can Tell etc gain the rib and pockets then follow the more spaced pockets left to gain the crystal ball niche. Follow the right hand line of "glued twizzles" to gain the shared (Quartz Bicycle) belay(2 hangers. Rebolted July 2010.
Note, You Never Can Tell climbs straight up to its own belay of "twizzles" where this route traverses left.
Andy Sharpe Pete Lewis 1987.
Feedback
There is no feedback for this climb.
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Taff's Well West
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents