18m. To the south (right) of the main West Face of Suspension Bridge Buttress is a much shorter buttress with much of its top section under black keep netting. There are three routes on the crag; this is the right-hand of the three.

Start at the toe of the buttress, just to the left of a complex buddleia bush. Climb readily to the base of a groove that splits the arête and then delicately up the groove and the arête beyond to the base of a red wall (escape possible here). Move slightly left before climbing the cracked
arête readily to the top.

The best belay is the keep fence, which well back from the top of the route. The best descent is to follow the keep fence and its trend line to the back of the bay, where a descent is made readily back to the SSB.

This route is a welcome addition to this grade of climbing in the Gorge, and with use will soon become a popular outing. It takes the obvious clean-looking slabby right arête of SSB just before the fence, well to the right of Wormlands. As the route is poorly protected in the lower and middle sections it requires steadiness from the leader, though the rock is splendidly rough and sound in those sections.

Colin Knowles, Steve Marriott 12/Aug/2007.

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