130m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
130m. (First approximation) To the right of the big gully right of the French Pillar is an attractive overhanging yellow wall capped by many roofs.
Approach - Traverse grass ledges leftwards from a shoulder above the beach to the large flake at the base of the steep wall.(In the early 90's Tommy Nilsson and Anders Lind approached the face straight up from the beach by climbing up to the ledge at around N7- before retreating).
1) N5, 10m. Climb up the left side of the big flake to a stance at a 'funky blade'.
2) N6, 30m. Continue to the top of the flake and step over to a steep hand-crack. Climb this up the jug-covered wall until it bends slightly to the right to a stance on some decent footholds.
3) N7+, 20m. Continue up the crack until it closes, then traverse left on pockets to a thin crack (the leader took a fall here, the grade is estimated by the second who followed it clean). Climb this and mantel up to a ledge. Move left to a stance.
4) N6+, 20m. The team tried to force a direct finish but ran out of courage/ideas after one steep pitch so...
4a) N3+, 70m. An easy escape, scramble up the gully on the left.
Descent - Scramble rightwards and down along a thin grass ledge across the slabs. Care needed and harder when wet. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Första approximationen (First Approximation), 7+, 130 m, Bunestrand

To the climbers right of the big gully right of the french pillar is an attractive overhanging yellow wall capped by many roofs.

Traverse grass ledges leftwards from shoulder above Bunestrand to the large flake that mark the start of the steep wall.

P1. 5, 10m. Climb up the left side of the big flake and take a stance with the ropes wrapped around the funky blade.

P2. 6, 30m. Keep walking up to the top of the flake and step over to the steep hand-crack. Climb the hand-crack on the jug-covered wall until it bends slightly to the right and take a belay standing on some decent footholds.

P3. 7+, 20m. Straight up the crack until it closes, then traverse left on pockets to a thin crack (our leader took a fall here, the grade is estimated by the second who followed clean). Climb this and mantel up to a ledge. Here the courageous will keep going straight up where we walked left and made a belay.

P4. Easy, 70m. Scramble up the gully with the tail behind your legs.

Descent: Scramble down along a thin grass ledge across the slabs, looks terrible from below but was quite all right even in the rain.

Joakim Söderström, Jonas Wiklund 27/Jul/2010


ClimberDateStyle
stuartjcoupe 02/Sep/15 -
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