About 600m. 18 pitches up the left-hand edge of the face, bounded by grass slopes to the left. Start right of these and cross the right-hand side of a curving overlap (N5-) then trend left up slabs for four or five pitches (N4) to reach a prominent steep groove. Above this, some huge loose flakes are crossed to reach three left-trending overlaps. Cross the first one and belay under the second, before following it leftwards to a grassy ledge. Head round the right-hand side of a roof and climb flake-cracks up and right to poorly-protected friction moves (N6-) leading to the base of a basalt dyke/gully. From here there are two choices - the lack of fixed gear means abseil descent is not possible.
1) Trend left across slabs to reach a col on the ridge.
2) Follow the dyke for seven more pitches, crossing a roof (N5), and arriving on the north ridge one pitch below the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Första approximationen (First Approximation), 7+, 130 m, Bunestrand
To the climbers right of the big gully right of the french pillar is an attractive overhanging yellow wall capped by many roofs.
Traverse grass ledges leftwards from shoulder above Bunestrand to the large flake that mark the start of the steep wall.
P1. 5, 10m. Climb up the left side of the big flake and take a stance with the ropes wrapped around the funky blade.
P2. 6, 30m. Keep walking up to the top of the flake and step over to the steep hand-crack. Climb the hand-crack on the jug-covered wall until it bends slightly to the right and take a belay standing on some decent footholds.
P3. 7+, 20m. Straight up the crack until it closes, then traverse left on pockets to a thin crack (our leader took a fall here, the grade is estimated by the second who followed clean). Climb this and mantel up to a ledge. Here the courageous will keep going straight up where we walked left and made a belay.
P4. Easy, 70m. Scramble up the gully with the tail behind your legs.
Descent: Scramble down along a thin grass ledge across the slabs, looks terrible from below but was quite all right even in the rain.
Joakim Söderström, Jonas Wiklund 27/Jul/2010