UKC

Restricted Access

'Private Land' signs have appeared at some points along the boundary with the A635 road which has led to some confusion over whether access is permitted or not. This land is designated as Open Access and the public have a full legal right to access is for recreation on foot, including climbing. Please keep dogs on a lead to help avoid future difficulties.

18m.

Rockfax Description
The left wall of the great prow with a loop to the right at mid-height to utilise a vital pocket. Micro-cams protect. © Rockfax

FA. P.Kendell 1970. FFA Dougie Hall 1986.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Andy Stewart2 21 May, 2008 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed after shunting (recommended). Runout to good gear above the overhang on the left as for Turtle. A hard sequence up and right gains better holds and gear. The top moves involve some heinous clings on tiny fingerholds with an awkward step up. I placed 2 tiny camming devices in the slots vacated by the absent pegs and was pleasantly surprised to find that they held a fall when I first tried leading it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed after shunting (recommended). Runout to good gear above the overhang on the left as for Turtle. A hard sequence up and right gains better holds and gear. The top moves involve some heinous clings on tiny fingerholds with an awkward step up. I placed 2 tiny camming devices in the slots vacated by the absent pegs and was pleasantly surprised to find that they held a fall when I first tried leading it.

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Guidebooks for Upperwood Quarry

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High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 1
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Route of Interest
Run Wild, Run Free

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Wilton 1)

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