120m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A tremendous route up the right arete of The Grooves. Start just right of The Grooves.
1) 5c, 28m Climb up to the overhang guarding the base of the groove in the arete. Undercut left to gain the groove and follow this to another roof. Move right round this to a good spike and then left round a second part of the roof. Belay below the next overhang in the arete.
2) 5b, 28m. Take the right-hand side of the overhanging arete to the break. Move back onto the edge of the arete and continue to a groove that leads you up and left onto easier-angle terrain. Move down and left to belay below a prow.
3) 6a, 30m. Climb up to the overhang, turning it on the left, and follow a thin crack into a groove. Follow this to get bridged onto a good spike at the top before reaching for the worryingly-thin flake. Move left onto a foothold on the arete and down to a rest in a groove near an odd hole. Step left to below a fin and head over this and up the crack above to belay on the good ledge.
4) 6a, 30m. Climb directly up to the jug on Overhanging Arete and follow this to the top. © Rockfax

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
hugo glover 16 Jul AltLd O/S
with duncan
with duncan
duncan 16 Jul AltLd O/S P2 and P4. Great climbing and amazing positions. Three stars if a bit cleaner. The groove on P1 was particularly lichenous and could use a good scrub.
P2 and P4. Great climbing and amazing positions. Three stars if a bit cleaner. The groove on P1 was particularly lichenous and could use a good scrub.
Hidden 9 Jul AltLd G/U
AdrianP 8 Jul AltLd O/S Lead 1st and 3rd. Dirty but nice.
with Dom
Lead 1st and 3rd. Dirty but nice.
with Dom
Ramon Marin 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd Lead P2. Misha took a whooper on P3. Great route despite being a bit dirty
Lead P2. Misha took a whooper on P3. Great route despite being a bit dirty
Misha 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd dog A great mountain route which deserves more traffic. Someone had been up it as there was chalk, wihch helped but it was still a bit dirty and 'mountainous', just to add to the challenge. Led P1, the groove was quite tricky, a good E3 in its own right. Ramon did P2 which was fairly short lived but had quite an exciting move or two on the arete. I then did battle with the crux P3. The groove was pretty hard (deja vu), then spent a while trying to go across too low from the spike until I realised I needed to properly stand up on it to then reach the dodgy pancake and the slightly less dodgy thin flake as per the guide book. Moving left and down from there wasn't entirely obvious. I went for it but messed up the feet and slipped off - annoying! Got it fine second go. The curious hole mentioned in the guide book is just a finger jug. I ended up doing P4 as well. Initially though it went up the open groove to a crack leading to the first spike on the arete as that's what the topo seemed to suggest but getting to the crack looked desperate and gearless so opted for going up the arete, first a bit on the left and then a bit on the right to meet the diagonal crack of the E2 just before the first spike. Think that's the way to go. Bold but not that hard, 5b/c and not 6a as suggested in the Rockfax. Amazing position and moves between the two spikes and then a cheeky crux getting established on the headwall - was a bit tiring after the previous pitch. Quality! Three teams on The Grooves so a sociable day.
A great mountain route which deserves more traffic. Someone had been up it as there was chalk, wihch helped but it was still a bit dirty and 'mountainous', just to add to the challenge. Led P1, the groove was quite tricky, a good E3 in its own right. Ramon did P2 which was fairly short lived but had quite an exciting move or two on the arete. I then did battle with the crux P3. The groove was pretty hard (deja vu), then spent a while trying to go across too low from the spike until I realised I needed to properly stand up on it to then reach the dodgy pancake and the slightly less dodgy thin flake as per the guide book. Moving left and down from there wasn't entirely obvious. I went for it but messed up the feet and slipped off - annoying! Got it fine second go. The curious hole mentioned in the guide book is just a finger jug. I ended up doing P4 as well. Initially though it went up the open groove to a crack leading to the first spike on the arete as that's what the topo seemed to suggest but getting to the crack looked desperate and gearless so opted for going up the arete, first a bit on the left and then a bit on the right to meet the diagonal crack of the E2 just before the first spike. Think that's the way to go. Bold but not that hard, 5b/c and not 6a as suggested in the Rockfax. Amazing position and moves between the two spikes and then a cheeky crux getting established on the headwall - was a bit tiring after the previous pitch. Quality! Three teams on The Grooves so a sociable day.
LRob 7 May, 2018 AltLd
oliverpcain ??, 2015 AltLd O/S
Dan Arkle 21 Sep, 2014 AltLd
with soph
with soph
soph 21 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Led p1 and p4. Great route.
Led p1 and p4. Great route.
Tom Livingstone 23 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S P2 and P4. should be called 'Epic Arete Route!' but whatever. Brilliant positions on every pitch, easily 2 stars.
P2 and P4. should be called 'Epic Arete Route!' but whatever. Brilliant positions on every pitch, easily 2 stars.
dan gibson 23 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Very good route, deserves more traffic, some great positions and exposure.
with Tom Livingstone
Very good route, deserves more traffic, some great positions and exposure.
with Tom Livingstone
Rich Kirby 25 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Splendid stuff
with Will Sim, Nick Bullock
Splendid stuff
with Will Sim, Nick Bullock
alexjz 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Fun route, amazing positions. P2 and 4
with James Marjot
Fun route, amazing positions. P2 and 4
with James Marjot
Hidden 16 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
tim newton 16 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Great route. Lead 1 and 3. Found the first pitch quite hard as a warm up, but it has some brilliant climbing and positions. The 3rd pitch I found hard in the groove and even harder on the traverse and the final pitch is quite bold at times. Overall an adventurous and really good route
with paul tanton
Great route. Lead 1 and 3. Found the first pitch quite hard as a warm up, but it has some brilliant climbing and positions. The 3rd pitch I found hard in the groove and even harder on the traverse and the final pitch is quite bold at times. Overall an adventurous and really good route
with paul tanton
Glyn 15 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Fun route, bit dirty and dubious holds in places. Feels a little bit contrived on the traverse but fun moves. Decent gear through, just shame about the dirt!
with Konrad Doyle
Fun route, bit dirty and dubious holds in places. Feels a little bit contrived on the traverse but fun moves. Decent gear through, just shame about the dirt!
with Konrad Doyle
nige ?Apr, 2009 AltLd A little dirty, but with traffic this would become a very good climb (worth 3 stars). The third pitch is great but a little 'gooey' on the traverse (fab moves).
with mark hounslea
A little dirty, but with traffic this would become a very good climb (worth 3 stars). The third pitch is great but a little 'gooey' on the traverse (fab moves).
with mark hounslea
Neil McA 19 Jul, 1997 AltLd O/S Great route, good climbing, awesome positions. Led pitches 1 and 3. Carried on to do Bad Moon Risin on the crag above.
with Beak 1.
Great route, good climbing, awesome positions. Led pitches 1 and 3. Carried on to do Bad Moon Risin on the crag above.
with Beak 1.
Hidden 20 Aug, 1995 Lead
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 5
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set