Rockfax Description
This long and intricate route weaves a complex line up a steep wall. The climbing is sustained with plenty of hard moves interspersed with good rests, but it is thin on gear and high in the grade.
1) 4c, 21m. Climb a steep crack to a ledge. Follow the slim groove above, then easier ground back leftwards to a good stance.
2) 5a, 23m. A complex pitch. Climb a steep crack and wall to good ledges. Balance precariously right then pull up to the base of a scoop. Climb the groove above to a peg, then swing right to the arete for an airy exit. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Alex's Wales ticklist, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist.

Jan.Hrb 27/Oct/17 Lead
with Ales
Hidden 04/Aug/17 AltLd
James Worthington 18/Jul/17 AltLd

Really enjoyed the second pitch, delicate technical and a little bit bold in places.

with Ewan
Ewan Russell 18/Jul/17 AltLd O/S


birbeck 02/Jul/17 2nd O/S
timmsy 08/May/17 AltLd
BTphonehome 06/May/17 Lead O/S

A brilliant, intricate route. Traverse felt a little bold. Superb finishing moves. Midge hell at the top.

with Kasha
Georgina Brooke 09/Apr/17 2nd
theotherpetehill 09/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
melv 08/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Fi
khalidq 23/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with Ian Lau
Hidden 23/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/16 Lead O/S
George_Surf 15/Aug/16 Lead O/S

p1 is quite steep and a bit technical in the groove but alright. the start of p2 was very tricky followed by an unprotected and exposed traverse. The corner is alright but the peg has had it, an awkward and exposed move gains the nose, easier to the top. Felt like e1 to me, quite a few hard moves, bit thin on gear. should have abbed off, the path to the right is full of gorse!

Pinguville 15/Aug/16 2nd dog

p1 was steady steep with good holds , p2 was pretty technical and sustained all the way , i made the move off the belay slightly wrong and got ultra pumped out so came off, first fall in ages , got back on and made it (had moved too far right ) the traverse and arete are all very delicate and exciting , felt like e1

with George
pftom 13/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Lead P2,

Graeme Hammond 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Sameer
samkat 07/Aug/16 AltLd
with Graeme Hammond
Mario Grabinski 06/Aug/16 AltLd
with Mark Young
Mark Young 06/Aug/16 Lead
with Mario, Helen
wi11 05/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Louisa Reynolds
Graham Westbrook 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S
mattkemp70 ?/Jun/16 2nd
with Westy
Markheighton 23/Apr/16 2nd
DannyH001 23/Apr/16 2nd
Shone 22/Apr/16 -

led first pitch

with Jason Bailey
Butel 17/Apr/16 AltLd
Hidden 25/Mar/16 AltLd
Rory Shaw ??/2016 -
davebrox ??/2016 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2016 -
Hidden 16/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
martrin 10/Jul/15 Lead

serious route, deck potential on P1 and P2 5a moves after traversing well right of the gear, no warning in the ground up guide, has to be E1

with Sarah Kekus
Hidden 29/Jun/15 Lead O/S
08nbrierley 29/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with jamie
Hidden 30/May/15 AltLd O/S
tobydunford 30/May/15 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Hidden 30/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/May/15 Lead O/S
Dave Reeve 13/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/15 Lead
Hidden 22/Mar/15 2nd
steveboote 22/Mar/15 Lead
with Agnes Kowall
Danhan 15/Oct/14 2nd dnf

We backed off P2 as started pissing down.

with Tom Lawfield, Nick
Hidden 15/Oct/14 Lead
tim_mcd 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Manchi
Andy Clarke 18/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Absorbing climbing, with a thrilling P2. Quite serious in places, particularly the scary traverse. Great move out to the arete - I went big rather than delicate!

Hidden 18/Sep/14 2nd
Kate Edhouse 07/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch, second pitch steeper and interesting.

Louis Hume 07/Aug/14 Lead

Hesitated on the crux losing strength but went fine when I committed (took some nifty footwork/balancing before I was confident to launch).

with Oli
HB-Pencil 04/Aug/14 2nd β
julesmckim 29/Jun/14 AltLd

Great route. Top pitch is interesting throughout. Good gear where you need it. Never too hard. Massive exposure!

nodwas 24/Jun/14 AltLd
with suds_01
suds_01 24/Jun/14 AltLd
Dave Almond 22/Jun/14 Lead

Would agree tough for the grade. Made Debauchery feel easy. Super rock and super day

Nicole Almond 22/Jun/14 2nd

Brilliant rock, lovely sunny day, midge free... superb. hard for it's grade but still a great climb.

with Dad
harold walmsley 31/May/14 2nd O/S

Found the thin crack v. hard but apparently missed a hold

with Chris Calow, Mark Hounslea
jmills94 05/May/14 AltLd O/S

me p1, neil start of p2 then greenpeace finish - thought it felt stiff for hvs!! great route and amazing positions.

with Neil McCallister
Hidden 02/May/14 AltLd O/S
anthonydouglas 02/May/14 AltLd O/S

Lead the top pitch, exposed and committing!

mark mcgowan01 18/Apr/14 -
with Anita Grey
Alex Mason 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Jemma Powell
Sardien 11/Jan/14 AltLd dnf

Led P1 but took my time to commit to bold section (very runout!) Then sun disappeared and it got too cold to finish climb so abbed off the ledge

with Helena Robinson
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 Lead
with Steve Davis
mike mo ??/2014 -
jcasey2436 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Great traverse

with Joe birchall
mynyddresident 09/Jun/13 Lead

great exposure at the top

with Rach
ross brinson 19/May/13 Lead O/S
with Chris Rees
Abi Chard 06/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Ann B
herman0055 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S
JonesJ 30/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Cardi 08/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1

with Tom R
guy757 21/Jul/12 AltLd
Dan724 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

One of the best routes I've done. Amazing views and great rock. Scary run-out traverse right on pitch 2 followed by a harder but well protected crack climb. Finished direct which is apparently more difficult.

Tony Holdsworth 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

AL P1 AH P2 Great finish

with Andy Lawrence
Hidden 26/May/12 AltLd
lost.arrow 20/Nov/11 -
with Stu Sherwood
g1m147 24/Jul/11 AltLd
with Mick.
Martin Bennett 01/May/11 -
with NickH
cmsg 30/Apr/11 -
with Richard Haszko, John Tomlinson
Hidden 29/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
cem 27/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Led p2.

with Charles Mason
centurion05 ??/2011 Lead O/S
with The Reverend, Bucknole
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Julian Wedd ??/2011 2nd
with A. Brierley
Hidden ??/2011 -
MikeLeeds 27/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Great route, nice delicate move out to the arĂȘte

Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Jessie Rushbrooke 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Missed move right out to arete and finished direct up corner crack

with PShearman
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 19/Jun/10 2nd
alek 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Krystina Common, Charlie Tomlinson
Hidden 31/May/10 AltLd O/S
Alexandre Buisse 31/May/10 AltLd O/S

Very fun, exposed, sustained and varied.

with Dave E. Brown
Brown 31/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Alexandre Buisse
Hidden 30/May/10 2nd
Adam Booth 09/May/10 AltLd O/S


Hidden 09/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/May/10 2nd
Hidden 03/May/10 AltLd O/S
brockers 03/May/10 Lead O/S

Did both pitches. Fantastic Route! Second pitch was -wonderful-!

edpd1b ?/May/10 AltLd
with Leo Scheltinga
Stuart_Burbidge 18/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Seb Anderson
metal arms 13/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Liam FLeming 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with karen dalzell
Dave Almond 14/Jun/09 AltLd
with A Crook
NeilGriffiths 14/Jun/09 -
with Dave, Adam
Different Steve 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Clare
A Crook 14/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Dave Rumney 23/May/09 AltLd
with Tanya Milner
Hidden 11/May/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/May/09 AltLd O/S
thompson1000 13/Apr/09 AltLd
with Barni
barni 13/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

top pitch awesome

with Northern
Hidden 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/08 2nd O/S
pete johnson 15/Jun/08 -
with Lun
Hidden ?/May/08 -
Diggler ?/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
ChalkBall 27/Jan/08 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch

Hidden 29/Aug/07 Lead
C@rwyn 22/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Heather said I could have the bottom pitch, but she hadnt heard about the 'heart stopping moves' on the top one then!!

with Heather and Lee
HeatherF 22/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Lead top pitch again. More scary than the Vs it has to be said! The comment that i put about the move in Lavaredo should actually be in this section but i got them confused!!!!

with Carwyn
MikeT ?/Aug/07 Lead

Was fine until the peg where you are supposed to traverse instead went straight up the crack - hard! Won't forget the guidebook next time!

with SK
Allan Watson 29/Jul/07 AltLd
with Steve Thomas
Cowflinger 18/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with John Williams
shoulders 18/Jul/07 Lead
James B 07/Apr/07 Lead
with Phil
Hidden 07/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks ??/2006 -
nicholas Barrowclough 09/Sep/04 Lead
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 05/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Rebecca
caradoc 22/May/04 AltLd O/S
with john b
Hidden 26/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 2nd
Roget ??/2003 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 18/May/02 2nd
thrutch ??/2002 Lead O/S
with johnny b
Shaved Atom ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Rob Davies ?/Jul/99 AltLd

Chris led P2, the exciting bit

buxtoncoffeelover ?/Jun/99 2nd
Hidden 02/May/99 Lead
Hidden 03/Sep/98 AltLd
Hidden 31/Aug/98 AltLd O/S
lost.arrow 05/Jul/98 Lead
with Gill Heartly
Hidden ??/1998 AltLd
michael burrows 27/Apr/97 AltLd
with brian jones
Hidden ?/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
babymoac 09/Jul/95 AltLd
with cash
Marti999 18/Jun/95 Lead
Chris Ellis 06/May/95 AltLd
with Louise Pellett
Bullybones ??/1995 -
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
sdht 19/Jun/94 -
with Dave Ward
Hidden 30/May/94 Lead
malc 17/Apr/94 2nd
Hidden 18/Sep/93 AltLd
Hidden 21/Jun/92 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1992 -
andrew300169 27/Aug/91 AltLd O/S
with Tim
frost ?/Aug/91 -
tlr 28/Jul/91 AltLd
with Cal
Andy Say 30/Jun/91 Lead O/S
andrew300169 ??/1991 AltLd
with Pom
DubyaJamesDubya ??/1991 Lead O/S
with Nick Oldfield
Hidden 02/Dec/90 2nd
Hidden 26/May/90 AltLd
Neil R 26/May/90 Lead O/S
with Sharon
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd
AlanLittle ?/Jul/89 Lead
with Tim Dillon
nigehughes ?/Apr/89 Lead
with Bill Nash
Martin Bennett 09/Jul/87 -

The weekend I met SF

with MT
michael burrows 29/Mar/87 AltLd O/S
with steve williams
wynaptomos ?/Aug/86 Solo O/S
Hidden 05/May/86 AltLd
Nick Biven ??/1986 -
Hidden 19/Jul/85 Lead
Bolt Phobia 18/Feb/76 AltLd
with John Broadwell
Martin Bennett 30/Oct/72 -
with JD
mikej 12/Apr/71 AltLd
with John Bickerdike
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 35
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set