Rockfax Description
This long and intricate route weaves a complex line up a steep wall. The climbing is sustained with plenty of hard moves interspersed with good rests, but it is thin on gear and high in the grade.
1) 4c, 21m. Climb a steep crack to a ledge. Follow the slim groove above, then easier ground back leftwards to a good stance.
2) 5a, 23m. A complex pitch. Climb a steep crack and wall to good ledges. Balance precariously right then pull up to the base of a scoop. Climb the groove above to a peg, then swing right to the arete for an airy exit. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Alex's Wales ticklist, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Thank god I don't have to do that again

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UserDateNotes
Paul Sagar 14 May Show βeta
βeta: The moves at the very top are inadequately protected by the peg and way, way harder than 5a. If you screw this section up you WILL deck on the ledge below. A climb for leaders with a grade or two in hand, only. Edit: a friend informs me that I’m an idiot and going direct at the end is wrong and I should have gone right to the arête. Y’know like it says in the guidebook.
 
Show beta
βeta: The moves at the very top are inadequately protected by the peg and way, way harder than 5a. If you screw this section up you WILL deck on the ledge below. A climb for leaders with a grade or two in hand, only. Edit: a friend informs me that I’m an idiot and going direct at the end is wrong and I should have gone right to the arête. Y’know like it says in the guidebook.
Peter271263 9 May Show βeta
βeta: The 2nd pitch is excellent.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The 2nd pitch is excellent.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
deklan 20 Sep AltLd
with Alun
with Alun
Hidden 20 Sep AltLd O/S
pguilloux 24 Aug AltLd O/S
with Mike P
with Mike P
badgerjockey 24 Aug AltLd O/S Absolute gem of a route. Varied styles and different challenges culminating in glory climbing up a juggy but airy arete. Made the mistake of doing the 5b/c moves too far right of the belay to start the second pitch! Make sure you’re far enough left in stead. There’s gear on the traverse but it’s tricky. Peg is backupable. Some long reaches and big pulls mean I think this is top of the grade if you follow the topo line.
with Rich/Kuang
Absolute gem of a route. Varied styles and different challenges culminating in glory climbing up a juggy but airy arete. Made the mistake of doing the 5b/c moves too far right of the belay to start the second pitch! Make sure you’re far enough left in stead. There’s gear on the traverse but it’s tricky. Peg is backupable. Some long reaches and big pulls mean I think this is top of the grade if you follow the topo line.
with Rich/Kuang
Mike Turner 2 Aug AltLd O/S Led P1
Led P1
JohnHartley 25 Jul Lead O/S One long pitch, finished direct up the corner
with stephen hartley
One long pitch, finished direct up the corner
with stephen hartley
jamieevans 9 Jul Lead O/S
Martin Haworth 8 Jul AltLd Pitch 2. Tough.
Pitch 2. Tough.
Tony Holdsworth 8 Jul AltLd rpt AH P1 MH P2
AH P1 MH P2
janegallwey 21 Jun Lead O/S Did a nice slightly harder variation by going straight up to join the traverse line about halfway up instead of going left. E1 5bish maybe going that way.
with Dad
Did a nice slightly harder variation by going straight up to join the traverse line about halfway up instead of going left. E1 5bish maybe going that way.
with Dad
Hidden 5 May Lead O/S
Josh Butler 22 Apr AltLd O/S
with Rob Mcnulty, Ben Heath
with Rob Mcnulty, Ben Heath
therat 21 Apr Lead O/S P1
P1
cymjt 20 Apr Lead O/S Led both pitches. Wonderful, top end of HVS, but excellent all the same!
with Catherine Elliot
Led both pitches. Wonderful, top end of HVS, but excellent all the same!
with Catherine Elliot
Hidden 30 Jun, 2018 Lead
afearn91 21 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 11 Jun, 2018 2nd
Simon Holland 3 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Multi Pitch
with JonesE
Multi Pitch
with JonesE
JonesE 3 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S P2. Superb climb, constantly thought provoking with a couple of proper heart in the mouth moves on the two traverse sections on the second pitch. 3 stars.
P2. Superb climb, constantly thought provoking with a couple of proper heart in the mouth moves on the two traverse sections on the second pitch. 3 stars.
rustaldo 7 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Al did P1 and I did P2. One stiff move close to the stance but well protected, great position on the traverse.
Al did P1 and I did P2. One stiff move close to the stance but well protected, great position on the traverse.
Alex Hallam 7 May, 2018 AltLd
brittsaurusrex ?May, 2018 2nd
adamre12 ?May, 2018 Lead O/S Led in 1 pitch.
Led in 1 pitch.
chriswood ??, 2018 -
Jan.Hrb 27 Oct, 2017 Lead
with Ales
with Ales
Hidden 4 Aug, 2017 AltLd
James Worthington 18 Jul, 2017 AltLd Really enjoyed the second pitch, delicate technical and a little bit bold in places.
Really enjoyed the second pitch, delicate technical and a little bit bold in places.
Ewan Russell 18 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S 1st
1st
birbeck 2 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
Arty 8 May, 2017 AltLd
BTphonehome 6 May, 2017 Lead O/S A brilliant, intricate route. Traverse felt a little bold. Superb finishing moves. Midge hell at the top.
A brilliant, intricate route. Traverse felt a little bold. Superb finishing moves. Midge hell at the top.
Georgina Brooke 9 Apr, 2017 2nd
theotherpetehill 9 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
melv 8 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with Fi
with Fi
Hidden ??, 2017 2nd
khalidq 23 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
George_Surf 15 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S p1 is quite steep and a bit technical in the groove but alright. the start of p2 was very tricky followed by an unprotected and exposed traverse. The corner is alright but the peg has had it, an awkward and exposed move gains the nose, easier to the top. Felt like e1 to me, quite a few hard moves, bit thin on gear. should have abbed off, the path to the right is full of gorse!
p1 is quite steep and a bit technical in the groove but alright. the start of p2 was very tricky followed by an unprotected and exposed traverse. The corner is alright but the peg has had it, an awkward and exposed move gains the nose, easier to the top. Felt like e1 to me, quite a few hard moves, bit thin on gear. should have abbed off, the path to the right is full of gorse!
Pinguville 15 Aug, 2016 2nd dog p1 was steady steep with good holds , p2 was pretty technical and sustained all the way , i made the move off the belay slightly wrong and got ultra pumped out so came off, first fall in ages , got back on and made it (had moved too far right ) the traverse and arete are all very delicate and exciting , felt like e1
p1 was steady steep with good holds , p2 was pretty technical and sustained all the way , i made the move off the belay slightly wrong and got ultra pumped out so came off, first fall in ages , got back on and made it (had moved too far right ) the traverse and arete are all very delicate and exciting , felt like e1
pftom 13 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead P2,
Lead P2,
Graeme Hammond 7 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with samkat
with samkat
Hidden 7 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Mario Grabinski 6 Aug, 2016 AltLd
with Mark Young
with Mark Young
Mark Young 6 Aug, 2016 Lead
with Mario, Helen
with Mario, Helen
wi11 5 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Louisa Reynolds
with Louisa Reynolds
Graham Westbrook 3 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
mattkemp70 ?Jun, 2016 2nd
with Westy
with Westy
Markheighton 23 Apr, 2016 2nd
DannyH001 23 Apr, 2016 2nd
Shone 22 Apr, 2016 - led first pitch
with Jason Bailey
led first pitch
with Jason Bailey
Butel 17 Apr, 2016 AltLd
ajtay 25 Mar, 2016 AltLd Went direct (midgicide) then traversed right on the normal route. Top moves really excellent.
with Alistair
Went direct (midgicide) then traversed right on the normal route. Top moves really excellent.
with Alistair
Rory Shaw ??, 2016 -
davebrox ??, 2016 -
Tim Sparrow ??, 2016 -
Hidden 16 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
martrin 10 Jul, 2015 Lead serious route, deck potential on P1 and P2 5a moves after traversing well right of the gear, no warning in the ground up guide, has to be E1
with Sarah Kekus
serious route, deck potential on P1 and P2 5a moves after traversing well right of the gear, no warning in the ground up guide, has to be E1
with Sarah Kekus
Jamie Skelton 29 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
08nbrierley 29 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 30 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
tobydunford 30 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
with Kirsty Kerr
Hidden 30 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Dave Reeve 13 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 Mar, 2015 Lead
Hidden 22 Mar, 2015 2nd
steveboote 22 Mar, 2015 Lead
with Agnes Kowall
with Agnes Kowall
Danhan 15 Oct, 2014 2nd dnf We backed off P2 as started pissing down.
with Tom Lawfield, Nicosread
We backed off P2 as started pissing down.
with Tom Lawfield, Nicosread
Hidden 15 Oct, 2014 Lead
tim_mcd 28 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Manchi
with Manchi
Andy Clarke 18 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Absorbing climbing, with a thrilling P2. Quite serious in places, particularly the scary traverse. Great move out to the arete - I went big rather than delicate!
Absorbing climbing, with a thrilling P2. Quite serious in places, particularly the scary traverse. Great move out to the arete - I went big rather than delicate!
Hidden 18 Sep, 2014 2nd
Kate Edhouse 7 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead first pitch, second pitch steeper and interesting.
Lead first pitch, second pitch steeper and interesting.
Louis Hume 7 Aug, 2014 Lead Hesitated on the crux losing strength but went fine when I committed (took some nifty footwork/balancing before I was confident to launch).
with Oli
Hesitated on the crux losing strength but went fine when I committed (took some nifty footwork/balancing before I was confident to launch).
with Oli
HB-Pencil 4 Aug, 2014 2nd β
julesmckim 29 Jun, 2014 AltLd Great route. Top pitch is interesting throughout. Good gear where you need it. Never too hard. Massive exposure!
with GeoMike
Great route. Top pitch is interesting throughout. Good gear where you need it. Never too hard. Massive exposure!
with GeoMike
nodwas 24 Jun, 2014 AltLd
with suds_01
with suds_01
suds_01 24 Jun, 2014 AltLd
Dave Almond 22 Jun, 2014 Lead Would agree tough for the grade. Made Debauchery feel easy. Super rock and super day
Would agree tough for the grade. Made Debauchery feel easy. Super rock and super day
Nicole Almond 22 Jun, 2014 2nd Brilliant rock, lovely sunny day, midge free... superb. hard for it's grade but still a great climb.
Brilliant rock, lovely sunny day, midge free... superb. hard for it's grade but still a great climb.
harold walmsley 31 May, 2014 2nd O/S Found the thin crack v. hard but apparently missed a hold
with Chris Calow, Mark Hounslea
Found the thin crack v. hard but apparently missed a hold
with Chris Calow, Mark Hounslea
jmills94 5 May, 2014 AltLd O/S me p1, neil start of p2 then greenpeace finish - thought it felt stiff for hvs!! great route and amazing positions.
with Neil McCallister
me p1, neil start of p2 then greenpeace finish - thought it felt stiff for hvs!! great route and amazing positions.
with Neil McCallister
Hidden 2 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
anthonydouglas 2 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead the top pitch, exposed and committing!
with CLetham
Lead the top pitch, exposed and committing!
with CLetham
mark mcgowan01 18 Apr, 2014 -
with Anita Grey
with Anita Grey
Alex Mason 14 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
with Jemma Powell
with Jemma Powell
Sardien 11 Jan, 2014 AltLd dnf Led P1 but took my time to commit to bold section (very runout!) Then sun disappeared and it got too cold to finish climb so abbed off the ledge
with Helena Robinson
Led P1 but took my time to commit to bold section (very runout!) Then sun disappeared and it got too cold to finish climb so abbed off the ledge
with Helena Robinson
Allanfairfechan ??, 2014 Lead
with Steve Davis
with Steve Davis
mike mo ??, 2014 -
jcasey2436 22 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Great traverse
with Joe birchall
Great traverse
with Joe birchall
mynyddresident 9 Jun, 2013 Lead great exposure at the top
with Rach
great exposure at the top
with Rach
ross brinson 19 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with Chris Rees
with Chris Rees
Abi Chard 6 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Ann B
with Ann B
herman0055 30 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
JonesJ 30 Apr, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 5 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S
Cardi 8 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Led P1
Led P1
Hidden 21 Jul, 2012 AltLd
Dan Hale 21 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S One of the best routes I've done. Amazing views and great rock. Scary run-out traverse right on pitch 2 followed by a harder but well protected crack climb. Finished direct which is apparently more difficult.
with raji
One of the best routes I've done. Amazing views and great rock. Scary run-out traverse right on pitch 2 followed by a harder but well protected crack climb. Finished direct which is apparently more difficult.
with raji
Tony Holdsworth 15 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S AL P1 AH P2 Great finish
with Andy Lawrence
AL P1 AH P2 Great finish
with Andy Lawrence
Hidden 26 May, 2012 AltLd
lost.arrow 20 Nov, 2011 -
with Stu Sherwood
with Stu Sherwood
g1m147 24 Jul, 2011 AltLd
with Mick.
with Mick.
Martin Bennett 1 May, 2011 -
with NickH
with NickH
cmsg 30 Apr, 2011 -
with Richard Haszko, iceaxejuggler
with Richard Haszko, iceaxejuggler
Hidden 29 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
cem 27 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S Led p2.
with Charles Mason
Led p2.
with Charles Mason
centurion05 ??, 2011 Lead O/S
with The Reverend, Bucknole
with The Reverend, Bucknole
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Julian Wedd ??, 2011 2nd
with A. Brierley
with A. Brierley
Hidden ??, 2011 -
MikeLeeds 27 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S Great route, nice delicate move out to the arête
Great route, nice delicate move out to the arête
Hidden 27 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Jessie Rushbrooke 22 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Missed move right out to arete and finished direct up corner crack
with PShearman
Missed move right out to arete and finished direct up corner crack
with PShearman
Hidden 15 Aug, 2010 Lead
Hidden 19 Jun, 2010 2nd
alek 19 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Krystina Common, phrozenpenguin
with Krystina Common, phrozenpenguin
Hidden 31 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
Alexandre Buisse 31 May, 2010 AltLd O/S Very fun, exposed, sustained and varied.
with Dave E. Brown
Very fun, exposed, sustained and varied.
with Dave E. Brown
Brown 31 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Alexandre Buisse
with Alexandre Buisse
Hidden 30 May, 2010 2nd
Adam Booth 9 May, 2010 AltLd O/S Hard!!!
Hard!!!
Hidden 9 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 May, 2010 2nd
Hidden 3 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
brockers 3 May, 2010 Lead O/S Did both pitches. Fantastic Route! Second pitch was -wonderful-!
Did both pitches. Fantastic Route! Second pitch was -wonderful-!
edpd1b ?May, 2010 AltLd
with Leo Scheltinga
with Leo Scheltinga
Stuart_Burbidge 18 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Seb Anderson
with Seb Anderson
Sut 18 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
metal arms 13 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 8 Oct, 2009 2nd O/S
Liam FLeming 16 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with karen dalzell
with karen dalzell
Dave Almond 14 Jun, 2009 AltLd
with A Crook
with A Crook
NeilGriffiths 14 Jun, 2009 -
with Dave, Adam
with Dave, Adam
Different Steve 14 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with Clare
with Clare
Hidden 14 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
Dave Rumney 23 May, 2009 AltLd
with Tanya Milner
with Tanya Milner
Hidden 11 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
thompson1000 13 Apr, 2009 AltLd
with Barni
with Barni
barni 13 Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S top pitch awesome
with Northern
top pitch awesome
with Northern
Hidden 26 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 Jul, 2008 2nd O/S
pete johnson 15 Jun, 2008 -
with Lun
with Lun
Hidden ?May, 2008 -
Diggler ?Feb, 2008 AltLd O/S
ChalkBall 27 Jan, 2008 AltLd O/S Lead first pitch
Lead first pitch
Luke Brooks 27 Jan, 2008 AltLd
Hidden 29 Aug, 2007 Lead
C@rwyn 22 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S Heather said I could have the bottom pitch, but she hadnt heard about the 'heart stopping moves' on the top one then!!
with Heather and Lee
Heather said I could have the bottom pitch, but she hadnt heard about the 'heart stopping moves' on the top one then!!
with Heather and Lee
HeatherF 22 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S Lead top pitch again. More scary than the Vs it has to be said! The comment that i put about the move in Lavaredo should actually be in this section but i got them confused!!!!
with C@rwyn
Lead top pitch again. More scary than the Vs it has to be said! The comment that i put about the move in Lavaredo should actually be in this section but i got them confused!!!!
with C@rwyn
MikeT ?Aug, 2007 Lead Was fine until the peg where you are supposed to traverse instead went straight up the crack - hard! Won't forget the guidebook next time!
with SK
Was fine until the peg where you are supposed to traverse instead went straight up the crack - hard! Won't forget the guidebook next time!
with SK
Hillseeker 29 Jul, 2007 AltLd
with Steve Thomas
with Steve Thomas
Cowflinger 18 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
with John Williams
with John Williams
shoulders 18 Jul, 2007 Lead
James B 7 Apr, 2007 Lead
with Phil
with Phil
Hidden 7 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2006 -
beardy mike ??, 2006 Lead O/S
with Shone
with Shone
nicholas Barrowclough 9 Sep, 2004 Lead
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 5 Jun, 2004 Lead O/S
with Rebecca
with Rebecca
caradoc 22 May, 2004 AltLd O/S
with john b
with john b
Hidden 26 Apr, 2004 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2004 2nd
Roget ??, 2003 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
Hidden 18 May, 2002 2nd
thrutch ??, 2002 Lead O/S
with johnny b
with johnny b
Shaved Atom ??, 2001 Lead O/S
scott titt ??, 2000 -
Nettle 1 Oct, 1999 AltLd O/S ML1 Course 1/99 ** - 44m - 4b,5a - Bill Billingsley
with Bill Billingsley
ML1 Course 1/99 ** - 44m - 4b,5a - Bill Billingsley
with Bill Billingsley
Rob Davies ?Jul, 1999 AltLd Chris led P2, the exciting bit
Chris led P2, the exciting bit
buxtoncoffeelover ?Jun, 1999 2nd
Hidden 2 May, 1999 Lead
Hidden 3 Sep, 1998 AltLd
Brian Rodgers 31 Aug, 1998 AltLd O/S
with Geff
with Geff
lost.arrow 5 Jul, 1998 Lead
with Gill Heartly
with Gill Heartly
Hidden ??, 1998 AltLd
michael burrows 27 Apr, 1997 AltLd
with brian jones
with brian jones
Hidden ?Jun, 1996 AltLd O/S
babymoac 9 Jul, 1995 AltLd
with cash
with cash
Marti999 18 Jun, 1995 Lead
Hidden 6 May, 1995 AltLd
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 1995 -
Ched ??, 1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
with Glanfor
sdht 19 Jun, 1994 -
with Dave Ward
with Dave Ward
Hidden 30 May, 1994 Lead
malc 17 Apr, 1994 2nd
Hidden 18 Sep, 1993 AltLd
Hidden 21 Jun, 1992 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1992 -
andrew300169 27 Aug, 1991 AltLd O/S
with Tim
with Tim
frost ?Aug, 1991 -
tlr 28 Jul, 1991 AltLd
Andy Say 30 Jun, 1991 Lead O/S
andrew300169 ??, 1991 AltLd
with nai
with nai
DubyaJamesDubya ??, 1991 Lead O/S
with Nick Oldfield
with Nick Oldfield
Hidden 2 Dec, 1990 2nd
Hidden 26 May, 1990 AltLd
Neil R 26 May, 1990 Lead O/S
with Sharon
with Sharon
Hidden ??, 1990 AltLd
AlanLittle ?Jul, 1989 Lead
with Tim Dillon
with Tim Dillon
nigehughes ?Apr, 1989 Lead
with Bill Nash
with Bill Nash
Martin Bennett 9 Jul, 1987 - The weekend I met SF
with MT
The weekend I met SF
with MT
michael burrows 29 Mar, 1987 AltLd O/S
with steve williams
with steve williams
wynaptomos ?Aug, 1986 Solo O/S
steveb2006 5 May, 1986 AltLd Led top pitch
with Max Rock
Led top pitch
with Max Rock
Nick Biven ??, 1986 -
Hidden 19 Jul, 1985 Lead
uphillnow ??, 1980 Lead date approx
date approx
Bolt Phobia 18 Feb, 1976 AltLd
with John Broadwell
with John Broadwell
jcw 5 May, 1974 -
with Roger Everett
with Roger Everett
Martin Bennett 30 Oct, 1972 -
with JD
with JD
mikej 12 Apr, 1971 AltLd
with John Bickerdike
with John Bickerdike
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 43
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 39
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set