4 pitches. The star is for the third pitch though the rest of the climb has its moments.

1. 70ft 5 (5a) Climb up to the block and follow the corner that bounds its left side (looking at the block, laybacking is probably best avoided). Continue on the same line to a stance 15ft below the break that runs across the cliff.
2. 60ft A0 Cross the break and climb the short bolt ladder (legitimate pulling on the bolts, now there’s a refreshing change) up the smooth wall to reach a belay on the ledges of the Vire de Casserole. Descend 30ft rightwards to a belay below an open chimney to the right of a line of overhangs.
3. 80ft 6a+ (5c) Climb the slippery chimney for 15ft then escape out left to less polished rock in a bay. Move left out of this and traverse left to a thin crack with a collection of pegs and bolts spattered about it. Up this until it is possible to move right to a good stance on ledge.
4. 60ft 6a+ (6a) Climb the easy groove above the stance until it is possible to get out onto the buttress on the right. Up this with thin moves around a bulge to reach the cliff top and a well earned tick.

Ali MacDonald 01/Jun/85 2nd rpt
with Spike Edwards
Ali MacDonald 26/Aug/84 2nd O/S
with Spike Edwards
jon ?/Aug/77 Lead
with Pete
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a