Restricted Access
A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,
This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too:
- All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
- Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply
- Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat
- No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
- Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
- No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
- No further new routing
17m.
Classic ban-y-gor, hard to get off the ground, pumpy and awkward but a real classic. Start as for Always The Rain, but break out right after the first bolt, heading for the right arete of the headwall. Pull up onto the big ledge and then figure out how to leave it and join the arete before reaching easier ground and the shared lower off.
Gordon A Jenkin, Cathal Connern 21/Jul/2009.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| badgerjockey | 7 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Only the top bit of the flake is wobbly (you can see the crack) I totally yarded off the bulk of it today and was solid for me. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Only the top bit of the flake is wobbly (you can see the crack) I totally yarded off the bulk of it today and was solid for me. |
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| ClimbingNut | 28 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Dodgy flakes under the ledge! There is a (kinda hard) sequence that avoids them, pulling hard on a side pull ~1m left of the bolt bellow the ledge. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Dodgy flakes under the ledge! There is a (kinda hard) sequence that avoids them, pulling hard on a side pull ~1m left of the bolt bellow the ledge. |
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| oceanwaves742 | 26 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: DO NOT CLIMB IN CURRENT STATE Large layback flake (80cm x 50cm) loose just above second bolt/under first overhang could easily come off if pulled too hard. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: DO NOT CLIMB IN CURRENT STATE Large layback flake (80cm x 50cm) loose just above second bolt/under first overhang could easily come off if pulled too hard. |
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| CasualLime | 26 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Clip second bolt and pull up on the flake. Get feet far to the right and get your left hand around the really small break. Reach high and right for a huge hidden jug. Pull up on this to get up to the ledge. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Clip second bolt and pull up on the flake. Get feet far to the right and get your left hand around the really small break. Reach high and right for a huge hidden jug. Pull up on this to get up to the ledge. |
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