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USER ATTENTION

Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the Graveyard area. Staying off routes/problems in this area will avoid possible disturbance.

 

Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:

  • Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
  • Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
  • Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call whether they think it is reliable. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.

If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682

14m.

Rockfax Description
A steep crack climb which is high in the grade. Jam your way up to a sit-down rest on a sloping ledge. Continue up the draining upper crack past some small wire runners.
Following the left-hand crack throughout is E2 5c. © Rockfax

FA.Graham Kilner 1961 FFA Mick Pooler 63.

Ticklists

Lancashire's Finest , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Classic Wilton Workout , Definitive *** Lancs Grit

Feedback

User Date Notes
Richard Hession 14 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A lot more strenuous when you don't read descriptions and attempt to layback the right side of the wide crack at the bottom :) Great climb though with a relieving top out!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A lot more strenuous when you don't read descriptions and attempt to layback the right side of the wide crack at the bottom :) Great climb though with a relieving top out!
andi_e 8 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: i had a very difficult, sharp lesson for a first time jammer here!!!! don't learn to jam on this route!!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i had a very difficult, sharp lesson for a first time jammer here!!!! don't learn to jam on this route!!!

Logged Ascents

850 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wilton 1

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 131
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 127
Votes cast 111
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Central Crack

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Wilton 3)

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