UKC

Restricted Access

USER ATTENTION

Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the Graveyard area. Staying off routes/problems in this area will avoid possible disturbance.

 

Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:

  • Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
  • Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
  • Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call whether they think it is reliable. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.

If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682

16m.

Rockfax Description
From the ledges on Frightful Fred climb through the blocky slot © Rockfax

FA. Hank Pasquill 1969 FFA Geoff Mann 1978.

Ticklists

Wilton wanderers

Feedback

User Date Notes
Flavio 2 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Route fully restored in June 23. Topout is solid so no Pre placed exit rope required.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Route fully restored in June 23. Topout is solid so no Pre placed exit rope required.
Si Witcher 17 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Downgraded to E5 6b in the 2016 Lancs Rock guide. It's clean enough at the time of writing. The iron spike below roof seems solid enough to be worth slinging still. The jug in the crack just above the lip of the roof is loose and flexing slightly. It's bound to break off sooner or later.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Downgraded to E5 6b in the 2016 Lancs Rock guide. It's clean enough at the time of writing. The iron spike below roof seems solid enough to be worth slinging still. The jug in the crack just above the lip of the roof is loose and flexing slightly. It's bound to break off sooner or later.

Logged Ascents

14 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wilton 1

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 7 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 5
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Repeated
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Run Wild, Run Free

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Wilton 1)

Loading Notifications...