UKC

Restricted Access

This granite quarry was developed in the 1960ies, but due to loose rock was ignored until recently. The quarry is nicely seperated into three bays, a large eastern bay, a small central bay and a large western bay. A number of new boulder problems have been discovered in the right hand bay, while a small number of new sports routes have been developed in all three bays.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction may be lifted or modified later in the season following site visits by RSPB. The quarry is in three distinct bays, and the birds (two seperate protected species) tend to vary their exact nest sites each year. Outside of the restricted times climbers are asked to be aware that if their presence disturbs the birds (screeching sounds, and obviously agitated birds) then they should not linger beneath the nest area. Both of the left hand bays are normally restrcicted but the right hand bay, that contains the newer sports routes and the bouldering is not covered by this restriction.

 

16m. The main wall at the back of this box quarry is seamed with vertical cracks which should challange trad climbers on the first ascent : this route starts just left of the crack lines up a steep ramp before stepping out left past a groove and following the steep wall on amazing holds :may be only 6c

terry taylor 30/Sep/2010.

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Guidebooks for Moel y Gest Quarry

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High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
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Route of Interest
Zone of Totality

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Minllyn Quarry)

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