UKC

Restricted Access

This granite quarry was developed in the 1960ies, but due to loose rock was ignored until recently. The quarry is nicely seperated into three bays, a large eastern bay, a small central bay and a large western bay. A number of new boulder problems have been discovered in the right hand bay, while a small number of new sports routes have been developed in all three bays.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction may be lifted or modified later in the season following site visits by RSPB. The quarry is in three distinct bays, and the birds (two seperate protected species) tend to vary their exact nest sites each year. Outside of the restricted times climbers are asked to be aware that if their presence disturbs the birds (screeching sounds, and obviously agitated birds) then they should not linger beneath the nest area. Both of the left hand bays are normally restrcicted but the right hand bay, that contains the newer sports routes and the bouldering is not covered by this restriction.

 

18m. The groove next right which starts from the big ledge at 3 metres . Easy scrambling gets onto the ledge . The initially blank groove is entered craftily from the right .Some very long reaches and wide bridging brings the first good holds within reach . Finish up leftwards to the final few bolts of Love Dolls

T.Taylor, 10/Sep/2010.

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Guidebooks for Moel y Gest Quarry

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High 7a+
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High 7a
Mid 7a
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High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
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Route of Interest
Entering the Neutral Zone

Grade: 7a ***
(Minllyn Quarry)

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